nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
That is where I ended up in the same kind of search. Enough time and use has passed that it seems to be pretty solid info.
Good choice. I run their kit, solid roller, turning up to 7000 rpm...iron crank.I am starting to put together a list of pieces for my stroker build. I have decided to go with either a Scat or Ohio Crank assembly but my question is which crank to go with. The goal is around 475 hp on the engine and possibly later down the road a 200 shot. The car will be about 70% street 30% track time so I will be revving this motor quite high a few times a year at least. I had planned to go with a forged crank just for the peace of mind and to know I would not have to go back into it again. Now I am starting to question if it is really necessary. What are your opinions?
The MP cast is a very good piece. I've seen them live at 600hp, plus 175 shot, raced a dozen times a year at multi-day events and up to 500hp expectations they are more than adequate. But - in terms of "the big picture"... If you're spending thousands now, why wouldn't you spend another $2-300 to get "the best"? I always internally balance, and never have a manufacturer do that work. Don't pay to have them do it, then again to "have it checked". Just pay your shop to do it. External balancing adds stress throughout the crank, not "just the ends". That's where the weight goes, but the whole thing gets stressed. That's how cast cranks get broken at lower hp levels, and in some contributes to why the power figures are never quite right.
So in short - get a forged crank. Do not get it balanced. Also a heads-up if you're sourcing parts yourself - you will need the narrow rod bearings.
I am starting to put together a list of pieces for my stroker build. I have decided to go with either a Scat or Ohio Crank assembly but my question is which crank to go with. The goal is around 475 hp on the engine and possibly later down the road a 200 shot. The car will be about 70% street 30% track time so I will be revving this motor quite high a few times a year at least. I had planned to go with a forged crank just for the peace of mind and to know I would not have to go back into it again. Now I am starting to question if it is really necessary. What are your opinions?
Hello:I am starting to put together a list of pieces for my stroker build. I have decided to go with either a Scat or Ohio Crank assembly but my question is which crank to go with. The goal is around 475 hp on the engine and possibly later down the road a 200 shot. The car will be about 70% street 30% track time so I will be revving this motor quite high a few times a year at least. I had planned to go with a forged crank just for the peace of mind and to know I would not have to go back into it again. Now I am starting to question if it is really necessary. What are your opinions?
I ran 351-c's in my dirt cars... never a crank problem but I kept the rev's under 7K...except the one night when one of my pit guys hot lapped the car and did it in first gear! Tossed a rod but the crank was OK... that old Ford sounded like an Indy car down the straights... we figured it was at about 9,500!The Ford 351C crankshafts were routinely spun over 9500 in stock eliminator and NASCAR racing and all they ever were was nodular iron.
Man, that is funny..... I bet you were fit to be tied LOL. Was that a modified body or stock body class?I ran 351-c's in my dirt cars... never a crank problem but I kept the rev's under 7K...except the one night when one of my pit guys hot lapped the car and did it in first gear! Tossed a rod but the crank was OK... that old Ford sounded like an Indy car down the straights... we figured it was at about 9,500!
Thank You. I will do as you recommend as soon as possible. I want to sell, make someone's day with this because two local mechanics said it is clean, excellent, and rings with no cracks. They wonder how I got it? The old warehouse and the guy passed away so no answers.@Dale Z
Welcome aboard Dale! There could be but the best place to find out if there is interest is to post it in the "For Sale" section under engine parts.
Pictures would be MOST helpful and the state of being it is in.
GLWS (Good Luck With Sale)
Sportsman class... '68 Torino. Hard to get mad at him... he helped us every week for two years. He had never been on the track before and just messed up.. he felt terrible. We just fixed the motor and moved on..Man, that is funny..... I bet you were fit to be tied LOL. Was that a modified body or stock body class?
good help lot harder to find than rods.Sportsman class... '68 Torino. Hard to get mad at him... he helped us every week for two years. He had never been on the track before and just messed up.. he felt terrible. We just fixed the motor and moved on..
A buddy used to run NHRA Stock Eliminator with a 71 Mustang and 351C 4sp. At the line on the two-step it was at 7000. Through the traps at 8200. Stock crank, stock rods, stock intake and Autolite carb. Held several class records in Div 1.
Better than sitting in collecting dust! Have at it, have fun.You guys are making me want to dust off/pull apart/rebuild my old 351C in the garage and do something with it....