Gus Loza
Well-Known Member
so im trying to install the linkages on my 69 dart. and i dont which way the bushings go on the shifter mechanism. and also want to know what side do the washers go on the lever side
are the clips positioned correctly? i never done thisso im trying to install the linkages on my 69 dart. and i dont which way the bushings go on the shifter mechanism. and also want to know what side do the washers go on the lever side
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Fuzzy photos but the clips go flat. I think my washers are on the inside. View attachment 1715670153 View attachment 1715670154
i bought everything feom brewers performance. levers on trans didn't need bushings. fit right in. i ended up using the washers on the clip side.Your original Hurst Competition Plus shifter has been modified for the aftermarket bushings. Here is how the were to be installed.
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i bought everything feom brewers performance. levers on trans didn't need bushings. fit right in. i ended up using the washers on the clip side.
'69 Dart never had a Competition Plus shifter from the factory, Hurst Mystery shifter. Bought my '69 340 Swinger new, that's what was in it.
We can't see in his picture which one he has, doesn't really matter I guess, that wasn't his question.
'69 Dart never had a Competition Plus shifter from the factory, Hurst Mystery shifter. Bought my '69 340 Swinger new, that's what was in it.
We can't see in his picture which one he has, doesn't really matter I guess, that wasn't his question.
Thanks for the information. It sound like I have the bayonet style set up.Not sure why you call it a Mystery shifter then. OEM 68-71 were Hurst shifters bayonet style that the handle slips and locks into the rectangular socket. All my original 64-65 A body shifters say Hurst Competition Plus. No stop bolts. I have had probably 10 of them over the years. Aftermarket A Body Competition Plus shifters have a welded handle with stop bolts and the shift arms have larger holes for bushings and slightly different shift rods and use the earlier Hurst mounting plate. If you want to rebuild your OEM Hurst shifter use Competition Plus parts. They all work. Anyone curious can go to the Brewers Performance website and click on the "before you order" tab to get an ID aid for 4 speeds and shifters.
What stick shift are you running with your set up? A picture of that would be helpful too. I'm having clearance trouble with the shifter in 2nd and 4th gear. I have bucket seats and the space between the shifter ball and the steering wheel is 4" at most (in 4th, less in 2nd). My knee gets blocked off by that small gap when I raise my foot off the gas and try to get it on the brake (I'm 6'3" with long legs). Big concern for that causing an accident. Any thoughts?
Everything is original as I've been told. Mounts are in good shape too. One of my first thoughts was that the stick shift was swapped out for another??? I've given the seat extensions so thought, but would rather do that as a last resort. I don't recall having this problem with my first 70 Duster, but it was a bench seat too.I do have a bench seat. I am 5' 8", my knee or the steering wheel don't get in the way. My first thought was someone has altered the shifter stick, but your lever shows no sign of being heated. I have the coloum and frt seat out right now, but the next time I go out to the shop, I will pull my boot up and take a picture. Are your mtr mounts and trans mount good? Everything look in place? Centered? Original trans? Mount plate tight and correct? Some of this is hard to do over the phone. Some people have put a b-body trans in and adapted the shifter, a picture of the tailshaft and shifter mech area would clear that up. Classic Industries or Year One make seat extender brackets that move your seat back a little if that would help.
What stick shift are you running with your set up? A picture of that would be helpful too. I'm having clearance trouble with the shifter in 2nd and 4th gear. I have bucket seats and the space between the shifter ball and the steering wheel is 4" at most (in 4th, less in 2nd). My knee gets blocked off by that small gap when I raise my foot off the gas and try to get it on the brake (I'm 6'3" with long legs). Big concern for that causing an accident. Any thoughts?
thanks for the info bud. i already put it together. but i didnt grease anything. hope it'll be okayYour bushing is correctly installed in your picture. The thin washer goes under the clip. Use a small amount of synthetic disc brake grease on both the inside and outside of the bushing, on the end of the shift rod that slides into the bushing and on the contact side of the thin washer. The clip in the picture needs to be slid all the way into the pin hole. It looks like there is sufficient clearance in the picture.
If the shaft on the end of your shift rod is not long enough for the bushing and washer to together with minimal play, you may have the wrong shift rod end for the bushing/thin washer set-up. It would likely be for the non-competition plus/factory shift rod. You will know because the clip won't snap into the hole with both the bushing and washer assembled on the end of the shift rod. I use the thin washers under the clips on the opposite side of the **** rod ends too.
Use eye protection when snapping the clips into the hole. They can go flying. Also, the aftermarket shift rods from Brewer are much stronger/stiffer than the factory pieces. Make sure to use the correct size pin inserted into the shifter to adjust the shift rod lengths.