TheGrateRonzini
Well-Known Member
Spinning hub caps
Thank you! That calculator is incredibleA Dana 60 from a 3/4 ton Ford will work fine. I got mine out of a 76 F250. It have 4.10 gears and a trac-lock, that I ditched for a new powerlock with 35 spline gears. Obviously, you'll neeb new axles housing ends, brakes, axles, etc. It was still quite a bit cheaper doing it that way than going with an 8-3/4 starting from scratch.
Here's a great tool for calculating tube length, etc so you end up with the pinion in the stock A-body location, if that's what you're looking to do: DoctorDiff Axle Calculator
Why are you assuming this is bullshit? Is everyone else replacing driveshaft for this swap as well?I also took Dana from 76 f250. 4.10, but went with a spool. So, by the time you change the axle ends, buy new bearings, seals, axles and studs, oil, cleaning, painting and the like. Also the jig for the pig and the piece of cold rolled from the steel warehouse, less brakes. Assuming you are doing your own work and not paying someone, cause at about this point you go strange so you don’t have to shim and pull and shim and pull. But I’m assuming this is bullshit because of the 383 stroker. And an 8.8 is way cheaper, easier and strong enough to handle what seems like is going on here. On the chance that you aren’t playing with us, straight cuts, lots of tubes of yellow grease, lots of time, pinion angle finder, bearing press, bearing puller, more yellow grease, gonna have to add driveshaft to the mix. U joints
Just because of the 383 stroker. That’s all. Unless I missed something important here. What trans are you running? Is it a 383 that has been stroked after being a 383? If so what is the new cid? I replaced an 8 3/4 in mine so I didn’t cut the a body one. The ford 8.8 that I put in the valiant is way closer to your price goal. Disc brakes, no cut, no axle swap, got rims from a jeep compass and welded perchesWhy are you assuming this is bullshit? Is everyone else replacing driveshaft for this swap as well?
.Just because of the 383 stroker. That’s all. Unless I missed something important here. What trans are you running? Is it a 383 that has been stroked after being a 383? If so what is the new cid? I replaced an 8 3/4 in mine so I didn’t cut the a body one. The ford 8.8 that I put in the valiant is way closer to your price goal. Disc brakes, no cut, no axle swap, got rims from a jeep compass and welded perches
I wasn’t trying to be a dick. But by the time you add up everything it takes to make it a successful swap, it is no longer a <500$ project. That’s all. I listed everything I could think of previous to that post that is needed for the swap. I forgot the shim kit and tapered bearings too. Not the cheap way in my experience. The chevy engine thing was where I got confused..
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Good grief give the guy a break. In post number one it says he has a Dana and he wants to know how to build it to put in his car. He didn't say should I put a 8.8 or 8 3/4 or a 12-bolt Chevy he said he has a Dana.
It's like when somebody says they want help in figuring out how to build a 318. The next thing you know you got 10 people telling him to forget the 318 and put a 360 in. Then you got another half a dozen guys, saying take that 360 and stroke it. Not one bit of help to help him with the 318.
.I wasn’t trying to be a dick. But by the time you add up everything it takes to make it a successful swap, it is no longer a <500$ project. That’s all. I listed everything I could think of previous to that post that is needed for the swap. I forgot the shim kit and tapered bearings too. Not the cheap way in my experience. The chevy engine thing was where I got confused.
Without a new set of gears and assuming he has the bearing pullers and press and spreader it still costs about a grand before brakes/plates/ebrake. Not to mention the inch lb torque wrench needed to set the pinion preload. Assuming all the cleaning and grinding and welding is free. And reading the pattern time and time again. Making dummy races so you don’t ruin the shims each time you have to take out the pinion. And the yoke, u joints and driveshaft. Believe me, I am all for swap, but it isn’t cheap the first time
Point made. Give it a break!I wasn’t trying to be a dick. But by the time you add up everything it takes to make it a successful swap, it is no longer a <500$ project. That’s all. I listed everything I could think of previous to that post that is needed for the swap. I forgot the shim kit and tapered bearings too. Not the cheap way in my experience. The chevy engine thing was where I got confused.
Without a new set of gears and assuming he has the bearing pullers and press and spreader it still costs about a grand before brakes/plates/ebrake. Not to mention the inch lb torque wrench needed to set the pinion preload. Assuming all the cleaning and grinding and welding is free. And reading the pattern time and time again. Making dummy races so you don’t ruin the shims each time you have to take out the pinion. And the yoke, u joints and driveshaft. Believe me, I am all for swap, but it isn’t cheap the first time
Late to the party. I'm curious how the great Ronzini got his 8.8, no cut, no axle swap into his valiant. I've read that one side needs shortened and then to get a second short axle.
"The ford 8.8 that I put in the valiant is way closer to your price goal. Disc brakes, no cut, no axle swap, got rims from a jeep compass and welded perches"
Please any info on this?