What Would You Say That...
People have opinions about everything, and for some reason folks get sensitive about this subject, who knows why.
The
camber is an adjustment that is set on the upper control arm relating it to the lower control arm that decides the wheel "tilt" in or out. When you adjust the torsion bars to raise or lower the height, the lower control arm angle is changed. However the upper control arm stays the same, thus
changing their relationship and therefore changing the camber.
Some will tell you that if you have a very level driveway, you can use a carpenter's square and tape measure and measure the amount of camber that is there (providing is was correct, therein lies the whole problem and then the arguing begins) and then realign it to be the same by adjusting the cambolts to make the camber the same again. You will need to drive the car for a block or so to allow the front end to settle in after the torsion bar adjustments before adjusting the camber, but them you will have to drive it a block or so to let the front end to settle before measuring the new camber. It is a trial and error process that can be maddening.
At an alignment shop, your front tires are on floating pads, on a lift, and all adjustments can be done, made accurate, and if you pay for the lifetime warrantee, you can go back and have it realigned when you get new tires, change the ride height with the torsion bars, and as a bonus, you will be aligned with your rear tires.
My vote, get an alignment with a lifetime warrantee.
Ask around to get the recommended alignment specs based on todays radials. The shop will, if they have it, try to use factory specs that are not ideal with the radials.
What I have been told is this:
1) Decide on tire pressure and ride height (based on torsion settings you want) and set these before you go for the alignment.
2) Request 4.5 degrees positive caster, zero camber, and 1/16 to 1/32 inch toe-in.
These seem to be good for modern tires.
The 4.5 degrees adds stability to the driving, although the steering will be a touch stiffer.
If you are going to road-course race, you may want some negative camber (bottoms out further than tops). But if you have poly bushings, a sway bar, or beefy torsion bars, this may not be needed. Zero camber works well.
The slight toe-in will actually be zero toe-in while rolling, as there is a minor natural "spreading" of the tires when rolling.
In any event watch for wear. I have sprayed my tread with flat black paint and when dry taken my mopar for a short, gentle, straight drive. Upon inspection of the tread, you can see any funky wear going on.
Just my two cents worth, let the arguing begin!!!!!