Crankcase evacuation kit!?

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kempkan

kempkan

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Well after a buddy of mine heard about this kit I decided to try it out. Part# mor-25900. I already ordered but do they work? It almost seems too good to be true for 60 bucks. Has anyone tried one of these kits and was there any performance gain? Thanks for the input again. :burnout:25900
 
Pretty sure this has been discussed before, can you run one of those kits with mufflers? I know the Moroso kit says no but......
 
this is posted in the racer forum so i was assuming it is a race car with no mufflers...
 
I know im not running mufflers. I would assume the back pressure from the muffler would not do any good for the crankcase but then again there are check balls in this kit I ordered. Who knows how long they will last its seems like the check ball is basically a pcv.
 
Its been brought up on Moparts a bunch of times. If I remember guy have reported that it works with straight through mufflers but not with chambered mufflers.
 
yes it works on my all motor pump gas street car! RACED on pump gas 93 btw! no mixing shyt like some of these guys on here.... and NO my dipstick tube don't pop out on the big end with may steel tops and napier 2nds.

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I've run them on my car with mufflers. They do work with mufflers - in proportion to the amount of back pressure your mufflers develop. I ran delta 50s on mine for some time and the back pressure caused the check valve to fail prematurely. Just changed to some straight through Dynomax glass packs and new check valves and have lots of vacuum on them now. If you run tghem with mufflers use a straight through type of muffler - and with any type check the valves function periodicly. All you need to do is to pull the line off while the car is at idle and you can tell when a valve is shot.
 
But what about performance? Anyone do a before and after? I've read that it actually helps seal the rings better and not allowing oil vapor into the combustion chamber resulting in better performance gains. Any truth to this or does it just help manage crankcase pressures?
 
-Sledgehammer- said:
yes it works on my all motor pump gas street car! RACED on pump gas 93 btw! no mixing shyt like some of these guys on here.... and NO my dipstick tube don't pop out on the big end with may steel tops and napier 2nds.

SV1-2.jpg
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Now THAT is purdy.....
 
I'm running something close...the valve cover set up is the same but my hoses run into a canister in the front of the car....my buddy got it for me as he uses it on his race car and I'm running it on my street car....stroker 416...pcv didnt work....fresh motor and i had oil all over...this will fix my problem.....
 
kempkan said:
Anyone do a before and after?
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one of these days I will try it... older pic below of the breathers on the engine but I can swap breathers right out in with my setup. with the engine running I just pull off the the hose from VC and it will stay sucked to my thumb but on the big end of the track (higher revs) is when the crank case will build up and come back the other way and build pressure... hence the dipstick tube popping out some!(I have good free flowing exhaust also) it does not do that on my current setup but my machinist says he does a certain process on the hone job who knows there. people argue this all the time but it works for me :glasses7:

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OP don't show anyone this :D

ecvac.jpg


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(pic before I had the new style 2-2 1/8 proparts/TTI headers ceramic coated on my RB 440-1 setup)

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yea my neighbors hate me :glasses7:
(turn it up)

Raced on local 93 baby! :glasses7::D:glasses7:
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-Unxro5cgU"]Stroked Pump Gas 440... SV1 - YouTube[/ame]
 
Yes, they work. they were good for about 10 hp (verified on dyno) on a friend's bowtie big block. To work correctly, you need to remove your dipstick and cap off the tube. Otherwise, the vacuum that you are trying to take advantage of, will be lost by air leaking in through the tube.

If you are blowing out your dipstick, check the the blow-back valve down on the header collector, it might be stuck and not opening. L8r
 
I found those aspirators (check valves) to be too stiff on my engine. Above 7000 rpm it would push oil out the front pan seal. I changed them out for some off a 80's slant six that took less vacuum to open and the problem was cured.
 
Sweet thanks for all the input. I needed to by breathers for my car anyway and I didn't know if it was woth the couple extra buck for the evac kit but I guess it was. Thanks guys.
 
Well if you are really looking for a performance gain then a vacuum pump set up is where it's at. Could be worth as much as 30 HP over the pan evac system.
 
This is what I'm running for my crankcase ventalation....a few others are running the same thing around here...my buddy has this on his BB street car with blower and seems to work fine...I had oil flowing out my breathers...now since this instal all is good


wayne :burnout:
 

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Hey Dustpan, that's a neat set up there. I was thinking of adding in a seperator like that on mine to keep oil from getting into the exhaust. How are you pulling vacuum on the canister - one line or two?
 
Guitar Jones said:
Well if you are really looking for a performance gain then a vacuum pump set up is where it's at. Could be worth as much as 30 HP over the pan evac system.
Click to expand...

I believed that until I tried one... I still run it, but it was worth zero in the way of ET or MPH over a simple pan evac. I have low tension oil rings, run 5in at idle and 12in max. From what I understand a pan evac will pull about 5in max.

I suppose it could make some power, but since it uses power to drive it it's a wash...

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stumper said:
Hey Dustpan, that's a neat set up there. I was thinking of adding in a seperator like that on mine to keep oil from getting into the exhaust. How are you pulling vacuum on the canister - one line or two?
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TWO LINES

WAYNE :burnout:
 
So you're using the normal header collector pito tubes and check valves on both sides and then run both lines into the canister to pull the vacuum? Does that canister have a drain to remove oil - what brand is it? Does the top breather work off a pressure (vacuum) switch of some sort or is it open to atmosphere all the time? (Sorry for so many questions).
 
I went to the salvage yard and picked up 2 check valves from chevy trucks smog setup.
 
Why not run an electric vacuum pump? I picked up one tenth running two late model gm smog pumps in line. Just don't run them off your cars battery, they draw 32amps a piece.
 
stumper said:
So you're using the normal header collector pito tubes and check valves on both sides and then run both lines into the canister to pull the vacuum? Does that canister have a drain to remove oil - what brand is it? Does the top breather work off a pressure (vacuum) switch of some sort or is it open to atmosphere all the time? (Sorry for so many questions).
Click to expand...


NO header collector at all.that would interfer with my O2 sensor......mine tap into the valve cover and then go to the catch canister...total cost was 277.98...all fittings and lines included....was told by my buddies and others this was the way to go....and have to say so far not a problem....and the canister has a drain at the bottom..a petcock like a radiator has and my radiator overflow...the breather is open element to the atmosphere all the time ...yes...
I'll get the name for you if you want...I didnt ask...my buddy got it all for me and we put if on.....easy install...1 2 3 done...

wayne :burnout:
 
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