What shocks to run on the Demon

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moparnut426

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I dont post here much, but.

Demon is a 408 powered 833 rowing machine. It is really quite violent and Im not hooking EVER.

Current set up is as follows

408 out of a 360,
K1 crank,
Diamond 10.8 compresson flat tops,
Solid roller cam, Dont have card in front of me now, but its not massive, right a 602ish lift with rocker ratio at 1.6,
Indybrock heads mild port work,
HS rockers,
833 with centerforce clutch,
3.91s in a 489 case,
pinion snubber,
SS springs,
M/T et street radials,
Mopar performance rear shocks.

I know the mopar performance shocks are JUNK, and I know the snubber is not helping, But I really want a better hooking car on the street/strip. My last 60 ft time was a 1.99, and that is the BEST i could get being mellow on the launch.

I have /6 torsion bars, and 90/10 front shocks set soft.

Ive been told the Rancho 9000s are not gonna cut it and need better valving but the guy couldnt think of the shock to run. Moparts sent me this way in my thinking.

Thanks

Heres the car.




216977_209025119125273_734614_n.jpg
 
I know about caltracs, Dont think Ill switch to them until I have to put a 60 in it. Its close now because I can hear that lil 8.75 groaning a bit when its pulling in 2nd gear.

Thanks on the compliment. Ill post one of the engine for ya. I built it myself everything from engine, tranny, rearend, paint and body to all the electrical.

391862_336001973094253_1022501951_n.jpg
 
I can see a Dana in you future also, especially if it really starts to hook.....hehe.
You should be very proud of your build. Not many can pull off the whole shootin' match.
Thanks for posting the picks, some great Mopar eye candy.:thumbrig:
 
Thanks guys! Im also building a 88 Ramcharger R/T thats almost done. 440 6 pack powered Black machine. I took over the build when my Dad passed away.

Back to the shocks, Would I be better off with a set of Calvert shocks, or something like an afco?
 
Afcos are great shocks. I run the double adjustable QA1s in the rear and the calvert 90/10s up front. I doubt that shocks are the (cureAll )for your car although they will help some. I would like to see a video of your car and then go from there. Cal tracs aren't no magic either if the chassis is not transfering weight to the rear on the launch then it will never hook.

Steve

ClintGravesPhoto025-1.jpg
 
I run the qa1 R in the frts and the stange adj on rear. Nice looking car how did those valve covers fit mine need to be clearanced.
 
killer car i run caltracs and ranchos works good for me:D
 
When I ran a S/S spring I ran a Comp Eng 3 way front shock a the MP shocks for a M/T and no pinion snubber and 60fts were 1.33 to 1.35.What kinda air pressure are you running and what track are you runnimg at?
 
Ranchos are better than what you have without a doubt.

Front is usually more important than what goes on in the rear section of the car.
 
i have not run the combo yet in the 67 dart (minitub)

Comp Eng 3 way front shock
and rancho 9000xl for the rear. (part number 99116)
with ss springs 002,003

you already have the slanty torsion bars

Also clamps on the springs

There are many varying opinions about the snubber ... as with or without. My reading says manual trans needs snubber but automatic does not.


Mopar discontinued the manual trans shock


That is the summary of all my poking around for suspension
 
Thanks Steve, How is your wife doing? Hope all is well.

As for the cal tracs, I honestly dont know If Ill need them as I dont race it much. The tires had 11 in them when it had its best 60 ft time, and 20 there wasnt much difference. I raced it at Marion SD.

The fronts are the summit brand 90/10s, and I cant find any areas where there is anything bound up. It raises really nice when well if it hooks.

Oh and the Valve covers needed push rod clearancing and thats all. The valve cover gaskets were a complete pain. Well they werent that bad, but the stainless inner core was a pain.
 
oh ya chuck lofgren runs 8s on stock suspension on his cuda so its possible to get hook but no doubt lots of tricks to do this
 
My car is an auto (so I might be off base), but don't stick cars react better to big bias ply tires (absorb the shock better)? You might just be fighting the tire....if you can find someone who will loan you some ET streets, or Hoosier QTP's if might be worth a try. Other than that, I would say getting a good loose front shock and lowering the rear of the car would probably help the most for weight transfer.
 
Yeah I know the Bias tire is a better choice, but Im not gonna do that. If I can even get a 1.60 60 ft time Id be happy. I drive the car mostly on the street and I know there is a few mustangs that hook with the same tire and a 5 speed.

Am I being stuborn, Im sure I am, but I hate the drive of an old car that already drives like an old car then amplify that with a squishy bias rear tire.

I never had any spinning inthe rim with 11, but I did see signs that the tire was folding. so I went back up till I basically blew them off completely.
 
crackedback said:
11 in a ET street radial? Yikes.
Click to expand...

You need more air than 11 psi for ET/ Streets they work starting at 25 psi and work your way down in 1/2lb increments you need to run the car on a sat or a sun race not friday nite.
 

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here's a few things to think about. raising the front spring eye. you can weld metal on each side of mounting bracket and drill holes to raise the eye. this will also lower the rear of your hotrod. install an aluminum bushing in it. use clamps on the front half. change the rear shackle to a slider. this will also lower it more. that should get you more weight transfer to help plant those skinny tires.
 
Yeah Jesse I know I should, but time this year isnt gonna let that happen.

bOb, Cant I flip the front hanger and get the same result? Id like to lower it, but the rims are a tag off on the offset, and I cant tuck them without rolling/trimming the fender wells, and fresh paint that isnt an option. I had ralleys on it and they tucked under better than these. I plan on putting a 60 in the car and build that about 1.5" narrower than the stock A body housing. Then Ill lower her down. Will a slider handle the street driving? Turning and side load etc?

Thanks guys.
 
yes you can but i'm sure you will have to drill new holes as they are two different widths. they make two different type sliders, one with nylon bushings and the other with roller bearings. it looks as though you didn't mini tub it or move the springs inboard. if you want to you can do that with out messing with the new paint. maybe when the 60 goes in you might consider mini tubing and moving the spring in. the sliders will handle cornering better then shackles. do you have the solid front springeye bushings?
 
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