Does This Debunk the "Coolant Can Flow Through the Radiator Too Fast" Idea???

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mopar head said:
I`m in the 180 min. temp. mindset for a street car. Chrysler determined 190 for my 72 440 iirc.
I`ve always heard engines need to be hot enough to burn off acetic combustion gasses or bad things can happen and condensation cheese will form under valve covers and in crankcase. Ewe.
Mt late model GM stuff is set to 200, maybe 210, I forget. That`s pretty damn hot.

Ram air can cool an engine down by 5deg. in continuous higher speed and rpm situations.

What say youins? lol
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It's not necessarily the "how hot" but the "how long". Short trips kill one. That's why I'm glad we're at the least 20 minutes away from everywhere.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
It’s going to be a bit. I still have to measure and qualify my junk, then assemble that junk and then dyno the mess.

I am working on it though.
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How about verifying the make on the radiator and maybe a picture of it?
 
Still sitting out my combo. Still tuning the sniper…. But my recipe is…

383 250/250@50 180* thermostat (Mr gasket pressure equalizing or something) flow cooler water pump

She was running 210-217

Changed the water pump pulley from 6” (6” crank pulley) to 5” 318 pulley. Went from 3 core 2400 cfm to this 2 core 1” aluminum jobby with dual 12” 3400 cfm total.

Now runs @185*_187ish. Previous with 3 core and 5” pulley was 195-197.

Fans are loud but not as loud as car.

Still don’t have AC hooked up so I’ll gain some temp there.

I posted before but things were a little “heated” so I pulled my pics. But here they are.

Yes I spent a lot.

I did flush the block and got rust sediment out.

100% ish 50/50 mix as I don’t think I could have gotten ALL the house water out of block after flushing.

Looking for over flow reservoir suggestions as far as how many ounces. Can I get away with 24?-30 tough to package…running out of space.

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famous bob said:
I didn't catch what kind of engine and how much power it makes ----???
hi h.p.engines create a lot more heat than lower engines do...
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Back then I was making around 400 hp. This time it will be 500.

They don’t make 1000 hp at idle so horsepower is a bad way to rate a cooling system.
 
You can just do what I did!

Use all the Factory components your car came with, after researching the parts manual and sourcing them! The original stuff was all tossed in the garbage 40 years ago
because someone thought they knew better than the Chrysler Engineers! Then make 2 enhancements! A Flow Cooler Pump and a Quality High Flow T-stat.
For the next 10 years and hopefully much longer, go drive your car and enjoy life! Service your 50/50 antifreeze mix per the owners manual and who knows how long it will last!

I do not have one of those fancy Gauges, just the Factory Rally Dash one! It reads just a tick over half while cruising no mater the outdoor temp. It may creep to just under 3/4 if sitting
in traffic for a long time. It never Vapor locks, or spits up, or exhibits any of the foul things it did before I finished the restoration in 2014. I have piece of mind now I never had in the
previous 30 years of ownership! It was just that Simple!
 
I feel like if you have a setup that is working, to be truly helpful, a member could post the components of their engine that affect heat management.

If you are factory, then what engine? cam? AC? thermostat? pulley size, altitude ...etc etc etc. Then those that are having trouble with cooling or heating can make a decision what they can change or if their power plant is that different that there is an apples to oranges situation. I can't really say to myself "oh Ill search out a factory rad with a shroud on my big block with a radical cam and all will be Gucci" if Im taking a recipe from a guy running a stock small block with manifolds.

Make sense? I mean now that we have covered all the scientific part that airflow across the largest area promotes cooling n everything.

$0.02
 
I have another example. Kenny at Indy built my 499, 830 hp. When I first got it in car it would peak at 240 degrees going down track. Belt driven water pump into a VW Scroroco radiator with external fan. I called Ken on this and said that’s fine, those heads have to run hot to make the power-heat, heat dissipation. He said I’d loose a lot of power running them cold (180). Anyway I didn’t like it being that hot so I put the correct factory shroud-fans on and a 160 stat, it ran that temp idling all day, lost about a tenth of ET in eight mile. Went from 5.60 to 5.71.
This is real world stuff not something read off the internet.
 
Ceedawg said:
I have another example. Kenny at Indy built my 499, 830 hp. When I first got it in car it would peak at 240 degrees going down track. Belt driven water pump into a VW Scroroco radiator with external fan. I called Ken on this and said that’s fine, those heads have to run hot to make the power-heat, heat dissipation. He said I’d loose a lot of power running them cold (180). Anyway I didn’t like it being that hot so I put the correct factory shroud-fans on and a 160 stat, it ran that temp idling all day, lost about a tenth of ET in eight mile. Went from 5.60 to 5.71.
This is real world stuff not something read off the internet.
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I bet you didn't retune for the cooler running temps. Whether it would have made a difference, who knows, but that's imperative.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I bet you didn't retune for the cooler running temps. Whether it would have made a difference, who knows, but that's imperative.
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I can prove on the dyno cooler engine temps makes more power every single time

Of course we know the Pro Stock guys are stupid because they CHILL the engines to something like 70 degrees. IIRC they fire the engine at 70, stage at 100 and make a pass.

Think how someone could destroy the national record if they just got the engine to 180. Or 200. No one would touch them.

But they don’t. So the question becomes are they stupid or maybe, just maybe they know something.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I bet you didn't retune for the cooler running temps. Whether it would have made a difference, who knows, but that's imperative.
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There was no re tuning, power was down just like he said with ‘cold’ heads. I’m sure Jenny knows a lot more about engines than we do.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
I can prove on the dyno cooler engine temps makes more power every single time

Of course we know the Pro Stock guys are stupid because they CHILL the engines to something like 70 degrees. IIRC they fire the engine at 70, stage at 100 and make a pass.

Think how someone could destroy the national record if they just got the engine to 180. Or 200. No one would touch them.

But they don’t. So the question becomes are they stupid or maybe, just maybe they know something.
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It’s done that way to chill the incoming air through the intake into the heads for a denser air-fuel charge. WHY does an engine run better on a cool night?
 
Ceedawg said:
There was no re tuning, power was down just like he said with ‘cold’ heads. I’m sure Jenny knows a lot more about engines than we do.
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If he didn't re-tune for the cooler engine temp, he doesn't know as much as you think. Yall go ahead and argue it. I know what works from experience. Have fun!
 
Newbomb Turk said:
I can prove on the dyno cooler engine temps makes more power every single time

Of course we know the Pro Stock guys are stupid because they CHILL the engines to something like 70 degrees. IIRC they fire the engine at 70, stage at 100 and make a pass.

Think how someone could destroy the national record if they just got the engine to 180. Or 200. No one would touch them.

But they don’t. So the question becomes are they stupid or maybe, just maybe they know something.
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Let me say up front I don't know anything about prostock racing. I do know they have engines that produce a lot of horsepower. I also know that the heat output of an engine is directly related to the horse power output. It would stand to reason then that they must have huge radiators and fans to keep them from overheating correct?
 
92b said:
Let me say up front I don't know anything about prostock racing. I do know they have engines that produce a lot of horsepower. I also know that the heat output of an engine is directly related to the horse power output. It would stand to reason then that they must have huge radiators and fans to keep them from overheating correct?
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I’m sure they do. Even they can’t keep them as cold as they want because the temperature is going up during a run.

I was told by a guy I trust they were working on that. I was told they think 100 degrees is the perfect temperature for a PS engine.

That’s IF I’m recalling the details correctly but I’m pretty sure I am. And I haven’t got on the phone to ask lately but they may have gotten that temperature creep cleaned up.

I do know they were able to keep the engine temperature at 140 pretty easily back in the late 1990’s. That’s about all they could do then, and the PS guy I was chatting with told me then 100 degrees was the goal. That was probably 2004ish when he told me that.

I watched Allen and Roy Johnson at a test session make multiple burnouts and launches and then making a run.

They were having some issues with the car leaving. And I happened to have my fat *** right on the starting line so I had a front row seat to it.

There were several PS crew chiefs up there watching but on that day at that time they were working with…I’m not going to say it because it doesn’t matter.

Anyway, Allen came up, did his burnout and made about a 60 foot hit. I think it shook his brains out. I don’t remember the car being loose at that point.

So he backed up, talked to Roy (they had to yell), they made some change. I think they made a wheelie bar adjustment. Then his did another burn out, staged and did another 60 foot hit. So he backed up and they made another change. I don’t know what it was but I know they hadn’t touched the two step.

So he did another burn out and made another 60 footer. It was better but not right.

So he backs up again. This time he shut the engine off. I couldn’t hear what this other guy was saying to Allen but he ran to the other side of the car and I saw him change the two step setting.

What it was and what he changed it to I haven’t a clue.

But he did another burnout and then made a full pass. It was clean and the first time they were in the 6’s and over 200 mph in a while.

My point is Allen Johnson did all that before he made a pass and his engine stayed at 140.

I should probably go to a race and look at some PS stuff now but I don’t really care to go to the track all that much.
 
How does all this Conversation really apply to Our, Your street / maybe strip driven cars! Don't overthink this,

I speak from 40 years of experience with just this one car and a multitude of the Same Engine/ Different cam, Rear Gear, Trans/Convertor changes and none the least "Cooling System Changes" ! The opening statement in this thread is the most interesting one to read and pay attention to. I learned my lesson the hard way with hard earned dollars that were just pissed away! My attitude towards my cars and how I spend my money has changed
over the lessons I learned with just this subject! It has led to what has become my favorite Mopar that I have owned the Longest! This car had been so aggravating over the cooling issues! Not any more!

Much of this thread IMO is conjecture and one upmanship that got out of hand. JMO!
 
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