Search results for query: *

Long ago and far away, in the mid 70's, I put a !!!!!!!! 360 !!!!!! into what used to be my 440-6 RoadRunner, and put the 340 that I HAD swapped into it into my old Toyota FJ40 RR. Obviously, this is long before Al Gore invented the internet, and in the back woods of N Idaho. I...

Interesting!

You better read what you typed, I'm like, "whut?"

If you are talking about the rear "half moon," no 273/ 318/ 340 pans have the larger cutout, about the same size both ends. The 360 is smaller.

Wix are properly made. If it was OEM, the wix will have it. For decades and decades, the Mopar Wix filters are 51515 (1 qt) and 51068 (short filter)

Post photos!!! LOL. Of the others.

The question, tho is how stock do you want it, and how old and beat is your OEM alternator? If it is coming maybe close to have lived it's days, consider getting an alternator for about a 74 Dart, which is the more modern "squareback" and has two field terminals. Buy the regulator...

MOST modern replacements for the 69 and earlier regulators ARE solid state, HOW DO YOU tell? Easy. If it is about 1/2 as tall it is solid state. If it is full height, turn it upside down and look at the bottom. The original electro-mechanical ones had 1 or 2 wirewound resistors on...

Some of the aftermarket stuff make underdash kits that are small than the original OEM and mount sort of in place of them. Classic Air is one, I'm sure others will chime in

Be careful screwing around with pans. Especially some of the knock off replacements, (I think Milodon?) interfere with some performance oil pumps Make sure you check that. It is possible for the rear of the pan to stress the pump and crack the casting.

Haulin! And it looks GREAT. Geez man that little car looks like 10 pounds packed into a 5 pound bag!!

Not sure that is really a problem. If you locate the rotor contact so it's in the middle of the curve, you are not talking about much leeway Yes. But you can also use filtering. Back in the day, with 2 way radios, it was common in some rigs to see coaxial/ feed-through capacitors...

https://www.autoweek.com/racing/nhra/a61225076/nhra-great-john-force-hospital-crash-virginia-nationals/ "Force was able to exit his car and was alert and talking with the Safety Safari workers on site before he entered an ambulance." Well THAT is a positive note, at least

You need to figure out a way to NOT stress the joints. Got some larger wood drills? Drill a 2x4 to pass the tube, saw it in half and use it as a clamp on the tube in your vise. How valuable is the car? I would be temped to just cut the holes a bit, punch them oblong, and if necessary...

I guess a crank trigger is one way around this? The phasing problem I mean. Keep in mind that electronic advances do not truly control spark "advance." More accurately they control more or less RETARD. This means the trigger must have to ability to start the electronics long...

You know me, Mr. Backyard method. Why couldn't you machine/ rough machine a bushing ring, BRAZE / silver braze it to your retainer, and then do a clean up cut on the late to get it properly round and concentric to the retainer? In fact for guys with limited machine tools, might...

RE read what I said. YOU are the one who "doesn't have time" to look it up. There are ONLY two power sources, from the switch----IGN1 and IGN2, PERIOD. If you do not understand how they function, you need to SPEND THE TIME with an ignition switch and figure that out, or else...

No it is NOT powered "all the time" It is powered ONLY in RUN by the IGN1 circuit. It is backfed BACKWARDS through the ballast resistor by the IGN2 circuit during cranking BUT the ballast is loaded by whatever else is on that line. YOU look it up. If you CAN NOT AND WILL NOT...

Then you show me where it gets power. IGN1 goes dead during cranking. It may get some power fed back through the ballast resistor backwards during cranking. But you are talking about the battery is down to 11V or less during cranking, the ballast is dropping through the field/ VR...

Prop valve should not make them mushy Air in system, maybe adjustment, and maybe POOR FIT (arc) between shoes and drums.

What year is your car? That could be from feed back through the ignition system circuit. My 67 does not do that

Looks nice. One of the best things you can do for yourself is to wander over to MyMopar.com and download the 73 service manuals, free, 2 volumes. Some of those manuals, and that one, got there because of some of the guys right here

Exactly what seems to be wrong? V too high, too low, ?? what? Yes but be sure you NEED to Most voltage problems are not the regulator. They are voltage drop problems, AKA drop in the ignition circuit feeding the VR as well as the gronding Best thing you could do is scare up a solid...

Posting more codes does not answer my question. I am asking you "what is" a "high circuit code?" All of those you posted?? Could even be because this is a modified installation. AKA why would this swap have an emissions sensor for the possibly nonexistent evap system?

I don't know what you mean by "high circuit code"

Hmmm that is interesting.

For what it is worth, good or bad, found this: https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/2-speed-wiper-motor-question.517130/ https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/2-speed-wiper-motor-resistor.156928/...

1...Are you sure faulty spark timing is not kicking the starter? Disable the ignition and crank it to see 2...If not I would Make up a lead so you can jumper power direct to the start solenoid. This will bypass all harness wiring and quickly get this down to the starter, cables...

Just a "side" comment. I would not get hung up on a with/ without sight glass. I have been stung bad trying to judge a system charge based on sight glass in certain situations, AKA high load and hot OD temps. Since then I have NEVER simply charged a system while depending only...

If they look OK, and with all the troubles lately with cam and lifters, I would just put it together AS IF IT WAS the first time and break it in all over again, just as you were just starting out. Don't forget break in cam lube, Z oil additive, etc.