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i confess i too am looking at modern muscle. A used Mustang GT 5.0 litre is an awesome car for very little cash.

Not nearly as excited about the hobby as i used to be. No longer have OCD and want everything perfect. Nothing too funky. Now stock style cars that I don't have to worry about that are fun to drive are enough for me. I still like restoring and working on them.

72blu makes an excellent point that knowing caster side to side is important. Newer vehicles have enough adjustment to create a problem. I've never known anyone to get more than 1 or 2 degrees of caster max. on our old A bodies and in most cases you can't get in to trouble side to side. Just do...

I always adjust the upper A arm cams to get as much caster as possible...you don't need to know the number. With weighted thread restrict the camber to 1/4" off vertical at the top for each tire in the direction + or - that your manual suggests, and this will get you about a degree of camber...

Most want something extra to happen when you mash the accelerator in a muscle car but any old engine performing smooth and perfect like when new is enjoyable. Not every body has Magnumitis.

Hotrodding 1.01...excellent! Much more gratifying than buying a new one one and bolting it on.

Ouch...wasn't expecting that. Yes the Accurate hangers are the correct style. At $160 US it's over $300 Canadian to my door for 2 muffler hangers...i'll pass. I don't think these would be very hard to make and probably will.

Those Mancini ones are the same as TTI. I thought the op was looking for original style hangers?

I think these are from Dales' Cuda Shop at $57 / pair

Dales cuda shop have the b body hangers for around $57 but the A body are single strap i believe. Probably can modify them? Those funky TTI brackets look like they are from something that can fly.

You'll have to pay or go to hotrodding 1.01 and fanagle them. I too am looking for originals at a reasonable price. Good Luck!

why are you disconnecting the ammeter?

i agree, .060 chancy for hi performance build. But stock would be fine depending on wall thickness. In an E body that brings 6 figures sleeving for $1K is not a big deal.

why is a .60 over 340 scrap?

I hear this a lot.."x heads are overrated"? I have used many.They are fine heads and make good power.

It was years ago i read flow test results on a number of intakes from one of the major manufacturers. The intakes with the highest flow did not make the most power. I have no hands on experience but the rough intake port was for better mixing at lower rpms .

Griffin.

other camps want smooth exhaust ports but rough intake runners to aide fuel / air mixing?

ya...it just has to be fast enough to be fun for me. I am spoiled by our modern cars that cruise so nice around 2000 rpm. Smooth idle, good mileage, driveabilty, and not too loud!

As JBC... pointed out the filter is usually by-passed above 8-11 psi. They are all adequate so buy whatever is on sale, you'll be fine.

I had springs re-arched and they held up...but that only works if they are made of good quality spring steel. The same goes for new springs. I bought Espo springs. Some say theirs sagged over time but mine never did. If you get yours re-arched they will try to do them one at a time to extend...

The only caveat to AJ's info is raising the front end causes the upper A arm ball joint to move forward diminishing caster which is already difficult to obtain on our old A bodies. The factory settings were optimal for handling and steering so watch out and watch it.

I think your car looks fine...the way it's supposed to. Not a fan of that "jacked" look? Here's my old Duster. With new springs i had to make new perches for the front of the spring to lower it because there was too much air above the rear tire and it sat too high for me? With it at the correct...

Too often this creeps in to our posts. Once it's heard or repeated a few times it becomes fact. "everybody" knows a guy, who knows a guy....

Run Forest Run!

That car just needs new stock rear springs. Leave the front as is and it will look, ride and handle as it should.

That's a lot of power for a street driver....most guys i know can only afford gas for 1 cruz nite per week at those power levels. That engine will out rev most 408's and seems more like a race prepped engine to me.I don't know why the 372 isn't more popular? As for drivability i think most guys...

I don't actually know but have "read" long duration cams have very poor cylinder filling and mixing, are inefficient and make very little power at lo rpm. That broken idle that most guys love is actually raw gas burning and exploding in the exhaust system. Maybe it's not the torque number but...

i have a rust / dent free passenger fender...but it's a 68. Stirling, Ont

as already mentioned..smooth quiet idle. If your under 50 years old and don't have headers you're embarrassed to open the hood. If you're over 60 and have headers your embarrassed to open the hood.