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Got an email back from the tech at Harland Sharp. He recommends .015-.018 clearance cold that I could achieve by mixing/matching the thin spacers to achieve. I understand 440 Source recommends .015-.030 for a similar rocker.

The issue is with the wear I am seeing on the sides of the rockers and the shims even though the clearance is on the low end of the spec at .008.

I am using Harland Sharp roller rockers on my 440. The instructions say to have a side clearance per cylinder from between .008 to .012. I recently took my engine apart to deal with other issues and am now reassembling things. I noticed some of the rockers and .047 spacers show interference wear...

I was looking at the Progression Ignition distributor for my 440 engine. The question that concerned me was how it would fit. I am using the Trickflow 240 heads and Ansen cast aluminum valve covers. Well, I pulled the trigger and got the PI distributor and can say it does fit without modifying...

Exactly! Anything more is just braggin' rights!

"Cranks like a dead battery drops to 6-8v and is very slow to crank and does not start." Voltage drop like that still points to bad connections. You changed the starters, same issue. You tried a jumpbox up front but where did you attach the cables to? Directly to the starter & bellhousing?

Sounds like a classic case of bad connections. Did you make the terminal ends of the wires going from the battery to the engine compartment? Did you have someone do a load test on the battery? I would temporarily put the battery at the front and wire directly to the starter & relay with OE style...

Need to put an ad in the parts wanted area. No doubt someone will have one for you.

Looks like a pretty thick spacer under the carb. You might want to try a little thinner one.

@Bewy

I am not a big fan of Champion plugs either. I've run NGK's and have seen where others say they are superior.

I got the covers from Ansen, but they are currently sold out of the black/finned finish. Think they still have the polished ones though. I would not get any different covers unless you have a baffle/splash problem... or you just want to change the covers...

Yeah, mine did too, but they were inadequate! Just a heads up. After you install the PCV and run the car, pull the PCV hose from the carb and look to see if you have any oil in the hose. Before I changed the covers I had quite a bit!

Be sure to look at the quality of the baffling under your valve cover. I had a set of M/T's that did little to nothing to stop oil being ingested by the PCV. I changed to another company's cast covers and it made a day & night difference. Just a heads up, but your issue sure sounds like the...

Best not to mix and match like that. The Wagner unit will do a great job at keeping vacuum in the engine at all but WOT. Since no one runs WOT all the time, you are really dealing with idle & mid throttle issues with the PCV.

Ouch!

You may want to look into the ME Wagner Dual Flow PCV that can be adjusted based on what your engine needs. Would be a lot simpler than going to a vac system. https://mewagner.com/

I recall a Nick's Garage episode where he said the biggest issue he's seen with these leaks is when the block was line bored. Was your block line bored?

Funny, years ago people would buy the B&M Trickshift fluid. It was mostly rebranded type F! The 727 & 904's are not picky about the type of fluid. I've run type F for decades without problems. Like others have said, run what they recommend.

Man, you would be able to hear an echo if you spoke around those rear wheels! Excellent!

I would use the aggressive pads, for sure. When I hit the brakes, I want to STOP!!!

Nah, I think it was the chrome alternator that fixed the problem. The electrical system had to stand up and salute!!!

Yeah, the flowkooler pumps are what I use. Just need to ensure the thermostat is REALLY a high flow unit, like the one that Stewart Components sells. They have the big windows, unlike other "high flow" stats that are not really...

The overrunning clutch prevents it from turning the other way. Perfectly normal!

I've used WD-40 for some things, but also heard it gets sticky after awhile (on door lock cylinders). Would not think it is good to use on parts that won't be in use for quite some time.

Ignition switch or wiring going through the bulkhead

Hey, don't get me started on TCI either... ugh.

Yeah, I still buy Fairbanks shift kits from Superior. I've used both B&M as well as TransGo and found the Fairbanks to be "superior". Just my opinion, but the kits are less expensive than the other two and they WORK!

Exactly. Been there, done that. Options today provide for a stroked 360 (I used one from Blueprint Engines). He will be so much happier with that swap instead of trying to shoehorn in a BB, much less an RB.

@Bewy You could reset the float level. If the needle & seat are in good shape that should take care of the problem. Bewy can help with this also, as he is an Edelbrock carb guy!