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I run 8 to 12 on my race cars that never see the street. However on my street / strip cars I run 25 to 30. On my street only stuff, I do not run aluminum rockers. Jesus is Lord!

Repairs to area around often indicate fuel or blower use and a tough life. For what it costs for the rest of the components to build a Hemi, it would not be something I would touch. Way Way back in my Hemi Pro/Superstock days, I sold the block and heads that were too worn and beat up for me...

A couple more thoughts: Use a quality Break In Oil specifically for that purpose. Do not run Synthetic Oil for first couple oil changes particularly on a new engine that has been sitting for a while.

Remove and clean camshaft. Put on new break in lube Check to make sure solids Lash about 16 and 18 or whatever the manufacturer of cam suggests Mark top edge of all lifters (Whiteout or grease pen or whatever) Spin engine over without starting several times for 15 seconds. Be sure lifters...

A bit more on cast rockers. Jig up a couple of old 273 rockers and measure the lifts if you have time. Even the Mopar Perf. Iron Small Block rocker often varied .010 to .020 at 450 lift. Back then one of my sponsors let me go thru his whole stock of MP rockers to find 16 within .010 varience...

Yes, already legally blind in one eye and clogged duct and Glaucoma in the other eye.

I will not change my mind as the money goes towards my copay on Cataract surgery next week.

I have a really nice set of Isky rockers complete with the hold downs and springs/shafts ready to install. But I need to get $450.00 for them. The Isky rockers are the best Iron rockers every made but very hard to find in this condition anymore! I have had nothing but trouble with the 440...

I had to angle mill the passenger side log manifold to fit my 69 Valiant 440 engine. C body Logs on both sides of engine.

We do not use Hydraulic rollers only solid. I am Old School.

If it was me = the money I spend building my engines -- I would pull it apart OR at least pull the pan and inspect to rod bearings and cut apart the filter for inspection!

The Bronze gears are a race only piece designed to sacrificially wear first. On our race cars we replace them every 50 to 75. passes or once a year whichever comes first. We do NOT run them on a street car period. A melonized gear is what is on our street cars.

You probably have a fair amount of metal circulating throughout the oiling system.

Not unusual for my engines to have some noise the first minute upon startup with the clearances I run on the skirt. Now if it lasts longer than that or sound like someone has a hammer inside = that is a significant concern. How much piston to wall clearance on the skirt 90 degrees opposed to...

1969 engines are E Code. HP denotes Hotter cam and Windage tray mainly. No basic differences in engine in HP version.

Any 440 Block is fine. It is an earlier block as later ones have a thicker boss for attaching motor mounts. The ribs might help prevent cracking if the block is subject to freezing weather = Otherwise not a difference!

It looks like an older build but probably a good build if rust is not a factor!

As I remember, I ran that # head on my 440 Duster in the 90's. Stock offset Crane Rockers Back then. I always make my own pushrods so I do not know if the production ones would fit. A 590 Clay Smith Solid Roller cam was biggest that I ran with High Compression TRW pistons due to piston and...

I have heard mixed reviews about Firecore stuff. How much is the timing variations?

Distributor Shaft collars helps if it is not a timing chain issue. Check Distributor shaft bushing/bearing for side play. Is it just a degree back and forth or is it 3 or 4 Degrees. Be sure weights in Distributor move freely and do not stick if it is not locked out. You could try a bit more...

That cam is insanely huge for anything that will ever see the street longer than it takes to get on a trailer. it sounds like your Valvetrain may not accommodate the lift on your camshaft.

You must buy sight unseen from these Monkeys and return opf deposit. I have tried them again last year and they were worse than ever and more flimsy and warped yet. Scraped up from not enough Mold release and beaten out of the mold with a big hammer and wedge. I used to be a Boat Manufacture...

Yes Sir Generally a 6 Series. Usually an old Analog old style when i can find a NOS.

We run exclusively MSD Stuff. It is not as good as 20 years ago but still as good as you will find anymore now that everything is made offshore! No mod required on their Billet Dist. I do not use the ready to run stand alone.

In our flow bench testing the 906 flowed better than the 452 or 346 (That were about equal) by a significant margin. The "F" castings were the best and the "C" castings were the next best of all the 906 castings. The 516 old heads were the worst of all. I accumulated several hundred cylinder...

I believe 2.02 and 1.60. But industrial heads are basically thrown away.

The 62/63 Max Wedges had valve reliefs to unshrould the large 208/188 Valves on one side. the 64 Max Wedges had reliefs on both sides of the top of the bore. You could use a Head Gasket as a template and a grinder to put them in yourself and you would gain a bit of Air flow if your bores are...

I used C body Manifolds and had to offset cut one side to work and look correct on my 68 440 Valiant. Currently has 2 inch TTI's now and it is faster than with the manifolds even through the mufflers.

Everything my buddy Steve has every built is a Rocketship! I remember when he was a kid too young to drive, he would walk around the pits and tell everyone how he planned to kick our ***! Like the old TV Show = It ain't braggin if you can do it. His Dad "Don Wann" (His real name) was a good...

Nothing wrong with a 413 Industrial block of truck/Motorhome block after you toss away the Heads/Intake/Waterpump. In the 60s/70s I bored them always to 426 plus 030 and ran them in our Stock and Superstock Max Wedge race cars. They still generally soniced tested as well as a production 426 Max...