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Yea. It was a lot of info for you to absorb in one evening. Take some time and go back through it all and it will start to make sense. Make your own drawings and sketches. Whatever it takes for you to learn. For me its drawing stuff out or at least tracing it. Seperate the stuff from last...

:( Some people here have taken them apart, but I have not. FYI The very center of the back is the ground contact. You can test for resistance but if you can see one of the wire coils is burned up, then that's not a good sign. A little evidence of heating wouldn't worry me if it resistance was...

The MR Heater box people should be able to help out with the mechanical cables. I'm sure used one are availablewithout too much hunting or waiting.

Lets see how bad it is. The engine compartment harness takes a beating from the heat and outdoors. Inside wiring often is in very good condition. If you just need some plastic connectors, most can be bought used or new. ps. thats a lot of money and my experience with replacement engine harness...

Your point is a good one. Loose wires, especially with a bit of weight on them, can jiggle around and even if they don't hit somehting immediately, over time the strands next to the crimp gets stressed and break. I certainly am guilty of having ignored and despised the factory wire supports...

Oh boy! The later panels like yours may have more grounds than my 67 but the three I mentioned are the ones I know for the interior. In theory the instrument board will be grounded simply by mounting it, but at least on mine I found the factory had ground wire from the capacitor mounting screw...

H',m interesting. A loose connection is my only guess right now since when you directly connected the battery wires the car started and ran. Since we're not confident of the where the break was, it wouldn't hurt to gently tug and push on the wires at the bulkhead connected to see the...

There may be two seperate issues. Reasons are this 1. That little black doesn't seem like the result of something that created noticible smoke. It looks something that sparked. 2. If the short to ground was there, or anywhere in the battery connected lines, it would have smoked when the...

So what's our best guess? Mine is the second nut wasn't snugged down - but its just a guess. Does the ring terminal also have some black ? That's as good as we can get with a basic multimeter unless we set up a test circuit. IMO - and its just my opinion - is that there nothing to indicate a...

Yes it must be reasonably intact for power to have gone through it. How does it look?

This looks OK. What was touching? As far as the ammeter goes. Take it off and check the studs are tight and then test for resistance. It shouldn't have any measureable resistance. Compare to touching the meters probes together. That's about it for the meter. There's no electronics . Its...

That company has a good rep. here.

This^^^ You can and you did. The danger in doing this was that the cause of the smoke had not been identified yet. Just testing for resistance or continuity to ground would have let you know if there was a serious short.

Your missing my point. The board is what it is. It just made me wonder what has been changed. The ammeter may not be an ammeter - that's what I was getting at. It should look like the one I posted. Another view If the fuel gage is suspect, then take it out and look at it. It can be...

Here's view of the connections on the back of a 67 Rallye dash

I'm glad it worked but you got lucky. Stop doing that. That = When there is a failure that is causing smoke, do not just hook up the battery and turn things on. Think of those two wires as battery wires - because that's what they are. When there is a failure find the fault. Multimeter and...

I'm tempted to let you figure this one out so you will remember it, and understand it! In terms of function it doesn't matter if they are reversed. The needle will then point toward charge during starting and toward discharge while recharging. The ammeters I've seen on are only stamped with...

Steele was making both 67 and after 67 types. Send a PM to @Rob_Mopar to see if he can help you out. They were a dealer but they've cut back on retail. If not might be able to point you to another retailer.

Some tips on rallye dash removals https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/rallye-dash-removal-help.458877/post-1972907258 https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/70-dart-rallye-dash-removal-help.449162/...

Nothing so far screams gages failed. You all connected a "12 V" power source to the key switch feed. Pretty much the same as would be normal. Nothing else is needed to start. Where is the other half of that cut wire J1 ? Even if it the car battery was disconnecte,the main splice would get...

Steering Column connector. red wire is J1-12R. Your buddy left enough room for a decent splice. A lot of the cable bundles in there do not have much slack, but that one probably has enough to do like you planned and not have stress or rubbing. Black wire with ring terminal. Where does...

Yes. And Calvin Elston points out his (frustration) that the exhaust ports are often ignored, but the same could and should be done there. While he can't control that, he chooses the exhaust tubing diameters and lengths to keep the flow moving away from the port even as the ex. valve is...

That's enough info. Its probably the battery feed A1. I'm going to guess CFD was on the right path. That is, the fusible link was damaged or had blown and your friend bypassed the fusable link. So for future reference when a fuse blows, find the reason. Next will be to look for where there...

An important point! Black wires are often power wires. Lets begin with this. All of the wires connected to the battery are hot when the battery is connected. The only protection from a dead short (battery to ground) is the special 16 ga wire called fusible link. Wires on the factory diagram...

I haven't done a '71 dash removal. You can approach it a couple of ways. One is just remove the components - that's what I've done on my 67 with ralley panel. Other is remove the dash frame itself. I've not done that. Do look for ground wires. On the 67- there is one from the capacitor on...

Since @CFD244 called me out, I'm happy to provide my 2 cents. 1. Ask your friend what he hooked the battery power to. 1 a. Post a photo of exactly where he connected 1 b. from that we can then figure what circuits got damaged. 2. IVR. I didn't see what led to the conclusion that the gauges...

Like YY1 wrote, go here The 1970 Hamtramck Registry Library Page (1965 - 1969) Then look through the dealer info like the data book and pocket guide. This is the type of factory lit that would be considered primary source. IIRC some fender tag info is in the shop manual and parts books - some...

Best I have been able to come up with is the ratings such as 650, 700, 750 etc are mostly approximations for purposes marketing and sales. As I recall looking at the 4776+ series and comparing with their vacuum secondary counterparts and found the same bore, venturi, booster were rated 50 cfm...

Cuda_Al has more expertise on the 67 than most. compare with examples here https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/fender-tag-decode-request.524104/#post-1974018105 https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/fender-tag-readers-needed.506887/#post-1973713667...

I ask because Moparmatt believes the ___963 white switch plate motors were made by Leece Neville. But maybe they only went on A-bodies 67 model year. There is an indirect reference to LN in the 67 parts book