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Just use a piston stop to check TDC. That way you KNOW. You can check the degree markings, if you don't have a degree wheel, by carefully measuring around the balancer with a flexible tape, than calculate the distance vs degrees I've marked several unmarked balancers, not that hard

That looks like a LOT of slop

The POINTS (or the breakerless pickup) IS WHAT FIRES and not the rotor. That is why I suggest NOT putting the marks on TDC. Instead, put the the balancer on the marks where you want timing. NOW with what you have there, rotate the dist CW (retarded) which will close the...

The deal is the distributor drive gear (intermediate shaft) may or may not be in "right" but it does not matter. Pull no1 plug. Bump the engine with a finger in the no1 hole until you BEGIN to feel compression. Now watch the marks coming up, and bump/ wrench the engine NOT to TDC...

This is not true. Only one direction is no1 compression. 1/2 turn off, otherwise known as "180 out" is NOT on no1 compression stroke, but rather on the exahaust stroke. There are two ways to get the dist in correctly and KNOW that it is so. One is to pull no1 plug, stick in your...

Decades ago I acquired a Commando 273 out of a car a guy junked. They had not used antifreeze. It's a long story LOLOL but the heads and 4bbl intake ended up on a 360 short block when I sold my old 70 RR. I had had a 340 in it for awhile. That 360 was a torque monster up to about...

I wonder, tho, if there is "water" there in a Magnum block

Correct, what I was attempting to point out. The coil side is the lower resistance. Maybe a high speed miss with more resistance. Look up your coil specs. The coil/ resistor specs, over the years are in the back end of chapter 8 in the manuals. You can download them free, from...

You sure you are measuring the correct side, or that it is connected correctly? The dual ballast has a "U" hape opening on one end. This is to "key" the OEM harness connectors sot that it cannot be connected wrong Over the years, that "key" can break, or the connector get damaged...

And, you may be overtightening it. Use sealer, and go easy

What did that cost?

I had forgotten that Mags use higher ratio rockers I don't know why you guys continue to argue with mechanical pumps. I doubt there are truly high quality pumps being made, so failure is probably higher, and diluting the oil is an issue. Then there's the "new gas" which is just plain...

Only way to know is to measure them. There is plenty of "how to's" on the www, and yewtoobe, to do that.

Also be aware that some service manuals INCORRECTLY list the torque of those bolts. They are 5/16, not 3/8 bolts so double check online for a 5/16 grade 5 USS bolt. Should be more like 15--17 ft lbs

The correct answer is, round yourself up a 360 and some better heads and THEN......................

This is gonna depend on what the threads are NOW. Because most manifolds don't have much "meat" to do much enlarging or tapping. It think there is a very good chance you will be looking for a welder.

An overly long coil secondary wire can cause stuff like RFI/ EMI / radio interference, but unless the wire is actually defective, that length should fire OK. Check the resistance with your ohmeter Then put your meter on coil+ or if you have a ballast, connect to "key side" of...

Is it possible he has mixed and matched hydraulic vs solid lifters and push rods? I forget, anymore, which ones are longer.

There are many guys on here run them. I do not, rather, HEI, but nothing against them except you won't find them, normally, in local stores. It would probably pay to buy TWO of the kits so you have repair parts if one fails.

Agree. Checking spark. I like to get "right to the coil" so to say. Use some sort of actual wire to temp. replace the coil secondary wire. Rig that to some sort of test gap. Crank the thing, and if you can, use a wide test gap, 3/8 to 1/2" The thing should make nice hot blue...

And also, most SBs actually have a long string STAMPED into the front of the driver side block, right below the head parting line. The first ?? 2-4 figures have the CID coded right into the number, unless it was a rebuild and marked out

EDIT LOL You and I were typing at same time Get down to the basics, compression, fuel, spark. Maybe the cylinders are fuel washed. Maybe run a compression check on 2 or 3 easy to get to. Certainly throw a little fuel down the carb, and fuel been sitting may be a problem, make sure...

No, Fram has always been junk. I've seen cut apart ones LONG before that, probably the first were mag articles in the early 70's, and first hand with a Wix rep cutting open several about 74-75

Long ago and far away, in the mid 70's, I put a !!!!!!!! 360 !!!!!! into what used to be my 440-6 RoadRunner, and put the 340 that I HAD swapped into it into my old Toyota FJ40 RR. Obviously, this is long before Al Gore invented the internet, and in the back woods of N Idaho. I...

You better read what you typed, I'm like, "whut?"

If you are talking about the rear "half moon," no 273/ 318/ 340 pans have the larger cutout, about the same size both ends. The 360 is smaller.

Be careful screwing around with pans. Especially some of the knock off replacements, (I think Milodon?) interfere with some performance oil pumps Make sure you check that. It is possible for the rear of the pan to stress the pump and crack the casting.

If they look OK, and with all the troubles lately with cam and lifters, I would just put it together AS IF IT WAS the first time and break it in all over again, just as you were just starting out. Don't forget break in cam lube, Z oil additive, etc.

How 'bout this? Any possibility that you have a block WITH A COUPLE OF OVERSIZE LIFTER BORES?

The one that is INSIDE the block back by the dist you can see by removing the dist. and looking down in. We had one member that claimed he installed a missing one through the dist. hole. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/340-oil-galley-plugs.377270/