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As stated are the drum brakes adjusted properly? If it disc are the bleeders at the top or bottom? Calipers can be put on upside down with the bleeder down and will trap air.

I have a set of 10 inch spindles I would sell.

Your brake pedal will be fine. You will need to buy the disc hoses and reroute new metal lines to a disc proportioning valve and new lines up to the master cylinder.

I have seen things like this before when I first started as a mechanic. The one I liked most is the old pickup that came in and stopped better backing up. We found what he did was one side front and rear at a time and had both sides with primary[short] shoes on the rear and secondary[long] on...

Could be a drum brake master cylinder with a residual psi valve in it holding slight psi causing brake drag on the disc.

Those are put there to allow flex in the body to frame without breaking the lines.

I have used the 1/2 inch boxed 12 point wrench method for 25 years in the shops I have worked at. It works great.

Yup from what I know 66 up V8 had 10 inch brakes instead of 9 inch.

So did everything go ok?

1)Pull the clip off the line 2)Spin the line off the nut 3)apply heat to the nut while trying to turn it till it breaks free 4)Install new hose and clip 5)Tighten line

The studs are holding the drum on. What I do is grind around the stud at he drum level then drive the stud out swap the drums and install new studs.

If the drums are the same but the hubs are different then knock the studs out and reuse your hub with the replacement drum.

I understand that I have picked up a set of spindles bare and was wondering if the drum hubs would work as he threw away the hubs/rotors years ago.

Are the disc hubs different from drum hubs? I know the spindles are different but how about the hubs if I had disc spindles?

What you are describing is a missing rattle clip on the inner brake pad. You can pick them up at any auto parts store.

Sounds like your first problem is you have to pull the pedal up. If the pistons are not stuck in the master cylinder bore then the pedal should come back up on its own.

There may me a metal pin sticking out of what appears to be a nut on the prop valve. On some models you have to hold this pin out until the bleeding is done to keep the valve centered.

Because air compress` and fluid does not. Thats why the pedal goes to the floor you are compressing the air.