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Could you measure one hub for me? I might have another one but need to find it first... The hub + 3rd gear stacked together on the bench has a height of 66.70mm (2.626") - see pic. Distance between shoulder on mainshaft and snap ring groove is 66.10mm (2.603"). Snap ring groove is 2.70mm wide...

took the synchro assembly apart. Hub is on the left (right hub is from another 3-4 assembly for comparison) and it measures almost the same as the other one (difference in hub thickness is only 0.002"). What is interesting is that first and second gear have much more clearance (I can move the...

Thanks AJ! Hubs are 3-4 ones - no doubt as they are quite different than the 1-2 hubs. The depth (just the splined part that sits on the mainshaft) is exactly 20.00mm = 0.7874" I only need a few thousands clearance so I don't think it matters where I take it off. oh, the 3-4 synchro assembly is...

Compared it to another mainshaft and dimensions are the same. Tried another 3rd gear from a 2.66 set (mine is a 3.09 set) and I get the same overhang - on both shafts! So I think this might be correct. The synchro assembly is a late style torq lock synchro. Definitely A833 and hub/drum length is...

Ok, so it's ok that the rollers can move back an forth? Do you mean a picture of the hub? Or the slider? Here is a closer picture of third gear and one of the synchro assembly from the other side. Will take more pictures tomorrow.

I'm assembling the mainshaft and realized that I can spin first and second gear but not third gear. Turns out that the synchronizer hub (3-4 synchro) rubs against the front of the third gear cone once I put the snap ring in place and prevents the gear from turning freely. How much clearance...

Thanks! Main shaft was my main concern but I measured it against a known good shaft (I know that sounds wrong but you know what I mean ;) ) and diameter is the same. Ok, new countershaft it is. Cluster gear is fine as I use a different gear set with very low miles.

Are these parts still useable? Countershaft shows some flaking of an otherwise perfect shaft. I know these are available new but cost $60 in Europe. Is welding and grinding down an option (are the shafts hardened? I assume yes...). Mainshaft: this is the bearing seat area (rear bearing)...

Got the MP one from Summit for $65. How? Had them price match Monicatti Chrysler (not sure if they are even still in business): Distributor Drive Gear - Flat Tappet Cams - P3571071

@AJ/FormS Didn't you suggest in other threads to PUT a screw on the cones for better shfting performance? I remember that you said you bias 2-4 for upshift and 1st for downshift. So, put a screw on the cones or not?

The higher the gear the faster the M/S will be spinning. Think about it this way: engine is turning 6000 rpm - will the car be faster in 4th or 1st? The M/S rpm is directly related to speed of the car (M/S rpm divided by rear end ratio = tire rpm. Tire rpm times tire circumference (in miles)...

Thanks, that's what I needed to know. Drum can be seen in the background - it won't work with any other than the torq loc slider. Why were the drums cut like this (omitting some splines)?

I have a torque lock style synchronizer assembly which I think was only available on later OD transmissions. They use a special hub but the keys are the same as for the other 1970 and later synchros (3/8" wide) - at least that's what I thought. The cutout in the slider sleeve is very shallow and...

Don't use aluminum for fuel lines as it can easily crack! Use Ni-copp instead - easy to bend as well but will last and doesn't crack.

Have you looked at BAM roller lifters? or Jones lifters (those might be just repackaged BAM lifters though idk).

Any update on this? Did it fit? How does the box compare to an original box size wise?

I enjoy fabricating stuff and yes, being in Austria makes it mucho mas $$$ if I have to import it from the states (the $165 quickly turn into $250-300). As I have access to a lathe, bandsaw, tap/dies, mill etc. it is not a big hustle for me to make this bracket.

I doubt that it's hardened. Grade 5 probably which you should be able to get for a coupling nut. Thread can be measured on the steering box. OD has to match ID of the bearing (probably 1.125").

I know, old post, but did you know that bearing and housing is a commercially available bearing? They are called flange bearings and the designation (LF206) can even be seen on the pictures on the firmfeel website. Here's the exact same bearing FF uses for their kits: NEW 2-Bolt Flange Cast Iron...

I just converted a truck Dana 60 to passenger car usage. Tubes were 3.125" diameter and 3/8" thick. Cutting off the full floater ends can be done with a cutoff wheel and a steady hand. For welding on the housing ends you need a jig to center the ends and have them square. For housing ends I...

Already deglazed the cones and put a "screw" on them (found the idea in another of your posts). When upshifting the mainshaft spins at a lower speed than the next gear. e.g 2-3 shift: mainshaft spins 2nd gear speed and 3rd gear spins faster. When the synchro collar pushes the brass ring onto the...

I have some pretty worn gears and synchro sliders and I tried grinding the dog teeth so that they are somewhat pointy again (vs. rounded as before). Turned out ok but could this be a problem in the sense of that the dog teeth are too far back now? Didn't grind of a lot but removed some material...

Not to sound dumb but what is the advantage over direct lube lifters? Is that an aluminum pipe? Aren't you afraid that it might break due to vibration?

My take on this is: Each paid $9 (10 - 1 = 9) --> $27 total. Of the $27 paid, $25 went to the manager and $2 to the employee. You have to subtract the $2 from the $27, not add it.

Which lash settings did you use?

What about a Comp Cams XS282S? 244/252 @.050 .520/.540 lift 110 LSA. Lash ramps supposedly allow quite a bit of fine tuning (+/- a few degrees duration so that you could even end up with the same intake/exhaust duration making it a symmetrical cam duration wise).

I'm in the process to convert my car from auto to 4-speed and one of the necessary tasks is to set up the clutch linkage. I think the following lines might help others who are in the same position. 1.) There are several different ways how you can actuate a clutch: a) mechanical linkage b)...

Car will be converted from auto to manual so I was free to choose what type of clutch actuation method I want to have. Basically it doesn't really matter if its a mechanical (linkage, cable) or hydraulic type - they all do the same: convert the pedal movement to clutch departure. If the tip of...

ok, good to know. Is a 2600 lbs static pressure plate - non adjustable for now so I'll leave the OC spring in then. I don't know the mechanical leverage of the hydraulic TOB. The master cylinder (wilwood) has a maximum stroke of 1.12" (3/4" bore) - no idea how far this will push out the TOB.

Do I need to/should I remove the over center spring when running a hydraulic throwout bearing paired to a Borg&Beck-Long style clutch (McLeod)? Thanks