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Yes it's a long video but you will (some of you) will learn something :coffee2: I did :color: Meet the Mopar Man of brakes MOPAR DISC BRAKE CONVERSION ,DOCTORATE - YouTube

It sure helped me :cheers: Thank you :glasses7:

Found something longarm http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=289226

I am looking but if I remember right the 14'' wheels hit the brake cal. Longarm.. still looking for that thread I posted in that I wanted to find at a later date !

some good info/advice here.

I thought I could get your attention D :D This old brain needs a refresher course on everything I need to do to them in simple terms sir. Could you explain the retro fit here for us PLEASE :cheers: Yes I have been hanging on to them for this day right here bud :color:

This thread is getting better and better :cheers: Keeping an eye on this thread becouse my next move is Disc Brake's for Victoria and all the donor cars that will be a good match for it/her :glasses7:

You explained it better then I could :D Thank you again :cheers:

I have used needle noise pliers here is a thread that will help http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=235245&highlight=hold+spring

Let me check, I think I have the 10" 5x4" front spindles and drums out in the shop, it will be a hour or two for me to get out there, I am looking at putting these on the front of my 66 /6 car and have bigger brakes.

Make sure the left brake wheel cylinder is not leaking a bit of brake fluid and making it grab/stick sooner, if not, adjust the left brake out a touch is the first thing I would do and look at. Inspect your pads and drums as well, a worn hub or brake shoes on ether side.

I have yet to see a sticky on early /6 to V8 transformation :sign3: If there is one let me know :D I agree, fact and experience would be cool to see if I was doing any of these upgrades in a sticky :thumblef:

The picture that jobrated52 posted all I can see is the bleeder fitting Snake, I would thing the brake line it's self will have the same size brake line supply hole/threads bro, if not (but I think it is the same) you can take your old wheel cylinder to a parts store and pick up an adapter for...

X2 RedFish :coffee2:

Wow, if the hub came off the brake is not holding it, can you turn the axle easy? or did you turn the adjuster so the brake shoes backed off ?

:thumleft:

agree, and it also could be over the rear end housing where the single brake line splits to two lines, just look :happy8: it and see :coffee2:

Be sure and look on top of your rear end housing where a small distribution brass block is that sends fluid to each rear wheel, I have seen them leak there

Well said Oldmanmopar, X2 :cheers:

Great info page, is your MC the same as PST posted for us ?

The one I seen was not a mopar MC, don't even know what kind it was and he had it all laid out and disassembled and it spooked me :D Thank you for this info, know I think I could do a mopar MC if I needed to do one :coffee2:

will the alcohol hurt the seals Bruce, and did you throw air at it after you rebuilt it ? did you compare the kit very closely ? I seen one taken apart for powder coating and never rebuilt one myself, but from what I seen I don't think I would rebuild one... Good luck

with a single pot master cylinder set them all the same on drag, no drag is the way to go, get them even and your front will indeed grab first... the brake line length take care of the front working first... soft touch will let the front engage first, a hard hit on the peddle will engage...

skin/eye/area protection is a must with this stuff, I am sure you know. just had to say. I would think a wet rag will hold it from going on the area you are working around long enough so it will not soak threw..

Can you watch this.. X2 on how to on above posts There is some good reminders here Bench Bleeding the Master Cylinder on your Classic Car - YouTube

I say drums, no drag and get better mpg, and believe it or not they rob HP. Spine a disc brake system by hand one time..JMO :glasses7:

Yes what wjajr said for sure, and if it is dragging the brake it is getting hot,thus no brake compared to the right cool brake :sad4: I had a break line on my dodge truck do what wjajr is talking about, if I hit the brakes then drove away the brake hose swelled up and would keep pressure on...

Drums work good... and look how many years they was used in the worst conditions back in the day when these cars hit the hwy Granted disc are better, but don't cut these drum short. They are faster and have less drag, and I would believe lighter. one day I will do my front but what I have...

:-k it sounds like the booster was not made for this adapter...:-k, there may be a bracket that bolts up to the booster you have :-k:scratch: :dontknow: On your M.C. if you have 2 even pod sizes I bet it is a dual drum master cylinder . I could be wrong :happy1:

Yes! Like these great members has said :D memike types to slow thank you all this morning :happy1: