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no the factory magnum distributor uses a hall effect sensor and is more made for a cam sensor signal for computer put an electronic older LA distributor in or if you wish one of them ready to run units you can buy

di-electric grease is made for spark plug wires and electrical components and used by the factory, its the only grease that is a conductor and will allow electricity to flow if you don't use it and just any type of lube you run the risk of pulling an end off a plug wire when its time to change...

should be no voltage high enough to shock you one the ECU, all it does is see distributor signal and turns the low voltage side of the coil on and off at the very most there is 14 volts at the ECU and normally much less any chance you bumped a spark plug wire while you were in there?

Ian; I can probably help get you up and running if you wish, I'm pretty good at wiring I could come down for a few hours some weekend if you like

good thread, I just came across this; I've been having pretty good luck with the kits I sell and I ship anywhere in the US or canada hows your EFI project coming along?

power to the coil still comes from the car not the HEI when switching to that setup, so in that case it would be a full 12 volts to a coil only meant to run 6.5-7 volts with a ballast

from what I've heard and seen its the mopar coil that can't handle full voltage; only HEI coil can give full spark voltage and be reliable the mopar ECU doesn't require the ballast, if you look at the wiring diagram the ballast limits voltage before it goes to the coil; the ECU controls the...

did you try a different antenna and speaker, doesn't have to be hooked into the car, just sit it there to test the radio, there is also a trimmer screw on the back; if you got the radio from another member in another state it may need to be adjusted

when trying to tune it does the indicator needle move? the old chysler radios had a thin piece of wire on rollers to move the station and if it broke the station wouldn't change...

much appreciated Ian I'm glad you got it all sorted out!

is that a white gauge overlay?

probably the headlight switch itself is going bad, seen it before where you either have no dash lights or very dim, turning the switch makes them either worse or they turn off

and if you can't figure out your current wiring heres a diagram

those style alternators came in 2 variety, a 48 and 60 amp alternator. the old 100 amp ones are quite unique and have external cooling fins to anwser your question its not likely a 100 amp one

if you have an aftermarket heat gauge everything we've said so far is pretty much useless, it runs 12 volts without limiter and to the wires whomever ran were ever

something is wrong with the gauge needle itself then, most times on these trucks it scraps the face and doesn't have enough power running through the gauge to return or go higher

I can bet money it does too, my 1979 does and yours has the same dash in it, its a 3 prong 5 volt regulator that sends on/off power to achive 5 volts even our old A bodies have that, in your truck its behind the gauges on the printed circuit board

if its not at 18 volts it might be the cluster; sad to say you may have to take it to a shop at that point, its not cheap to throw parts at it

oh on your truck, have you checked the voltage regulator in the dash? I assume thats your 1979 one you have? the in tank senders rarely go bad on those unless rust gets it

you best hope the issue is a short in the alternator, on that truck the ECM/PCM controls the charging

heres a question for you, is your line grounded good to the car? its easier to run a wire to the tank corner outside of where they are welded so it don't leak

the 318 and 360 share all the same external accessory brackets. just reuse them

I PM'd him and offered him the parts I have for free just pick them up (about an hours drive) but mine aren't clean and ready for paint anything else?

I don't use accel mallory or msd or pertronix, I use napa brand ECU for $22 and don't have to go to a salvage yard, or pay hundreds for an aftermarket system if chev electronics are so good how come they have so much electrical issues? famous for non working power windows, and shorts galory if...

all you did is post pictures of what is needed, oldmanmopar actually made and offer on selling him good parts, did you?

the ballast resistor is there for the coil, keeps it from overheating, all coils except aftermarket (flame thrower) or HEI require ballast resistor GM parts belong on a GM car; don't crossbreed

Hey Ian hows things? unfortunatly you were sold v8 alternator brackets but they appear to be for an A/C setup, the thing that is wrong in your picutures as others have said is the triangle bracket that bolts to the waterpump. also do you have the two spacers and long bolt that are needed? as...

is that 1988-1991 style TBI on a dodge truck? if so would you sell the wiring harness computer TBI and distributor?

it had a leanburn computer but the truck I took the 318 out of I also took the harness and ECU to go with it, thats when I noticed the date stamp

Mopar ignition is only as good as the cheap parts you purchase for it, recently replaced the engine in my 1986 dodge ram, thought I would check the ECU and I noticed it was date stamped 6/25/1985.... not bad I would think, so much for unreliable!