I'm seriously thinking of putting a QA1 tubular K-member and associated parts on my '69 Dart.
Who is currently running one on a street driven car?
Reviews?
Info?
Thanks in advance!
Question to all who have reinforced a factory K-member: What is your opinion on the strength of a reinforced factory K-member compared to an aftermarket tubular K-member?
Which would you prefer to use for street use with torsion bar suspension?
I do not have either welding skills or equipment...
tirerack.com shows the rim width range for P275-60x15 tires is 7.5"-9.5".
I've got BF Goodrich Radial TAs mounted on 8"-wide rear rims and they're just fine.
In addition to sub-frame connectors I'd also strongly consider everything available to help stiffen the chassis. Check out US Car Tool (Mopar) for torque boxes, radiator core support stiffener, and inner fender braces. Anything you can add to help eliminate chassis flexing will add to your...
US Car Tool has a complete package of all of the components for $649.
I used everything except their subframe connectors (I already had some other subframe connectors) on my current '69 Dart project.
The weaker T-bars will also allow the front to "droop" a little more after the initial weight transfer. Overall, they should provide a quicker-acting suspension for both lift and settle.
Jegs.com shows the A-body XHD springs at $203.99 each with free shipping.
They also show the A-body Super Stock springs for 3000-3200 pound vehicle weight at $126.99 each with free shipping.
Please post some pics of the Motown Missile "wire car" from the Nats. I'd love to see some pics of the finished restoration.
I have a few "before resto" pics of it from when it was here in SoCal at the 401K Club shop.
x2 - I met and talked with at MATS in Las Vegas a couple of years ago. Seemed like a stand-up guy and knew his stuff. I was looking forward to doing business with him as I got further along in my Dart build.
Sure, they'll bolt right in and work on the street. The ride will be stiffer and they'll raise the back of your car - and the back bumper won't be level.
What is your car's purpose? Strictly street or street/strip?
If strictly street, you may be better off using a matched pair of HD leaf...
Joe, a lot of A-body owners replace their power steering gearboxes with manual gearboxes because they don't like the "over-boosted" feeling of the stock Mopar power steering box.
Yes, FirmFeel makes a great replacement product but you can modify a stock Saginaw PS pump to reduce the...
Not meaning to hijack the post.
For all those who may be looking for a great-quality leather wrap for your existing steering wheel, check these out: http://www.wheelskinscover.com/?Click=24&gclid=CO-Nra3DvLsCFciFfgod0n0ABA
I put one on my stock 1995 Ram 2500 steering wheel and it made a...
OK, I understand about the spacer behind the front spring hangar to move the rearend back in the wheelwell. But I'm curious what effect, if any, this has by also changing the angle of the spring shackles at the rear of the leaf springs.
Comments???
Hey Dragin Demon -
The only thing that bothers me is the title of this thread. Why? Because it sounds like you want to spend some money now, but not too much. And then you want to spend more money later to reach your ultimate goal.
So, one observation and one question:
During your buildup...
"...till after November" means after SEMA in Las Vegas. I saw another thread here a couple of days ago saying something about QA1 having some big news and new products for us Mopar guys that will debut at SEMA in November.
The article is in Car Craft and yes, it is very pricey. I was interested in what they did until I reviewed the cost. Now going to stick with what came with my '69 Dart when I bought it and just lower the pressure for a better steering feel.
One of the other benefits they were talking about in...
Great look! Love the wheels.
I wanted to get Street Lites for my '69 Dart build when they first came out but the rest of the family thought they looked "too new" for the car. I like the cold-forged wheels I finally bought from Centerline but still wish I'd gone ahead with the billet Street...
I know almost all of the discussion on this thread has been front suspension - a lot of good, valuable information.
But here's a suggestion for when you get ready to change to BBP and upgrade the rearend. Rather than paying a bigger price for an A-body 8.75 rear, find a good B-body 8.75 rear...