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That's a lot of good parts. Can you post some photos?? I'd like to see the finished product. Also, is there a question in there somewhere, or is this a welcome post? Maybe @toolmanmike can move it to the appropriate section. At 71, you're just a young buck compared to some others here. :lol:

1/8" White board works great. Putting the white side on the inside acts as another moisture barrier.

Thanks guys. This is a handy list. I ended up finding a handful of 67s in my bulb tray so I'll give those a shot before I end up doing anything different.

I did paint the lamp cups bright white when I rebuilt them. Not sure if it was ceiling white specifically, but it is was a really bright white. I'll give the R5W bulbs a shot first. If they're close enough, great. If they look off, I'll try replacing the socket since it's easy enough. Plus, I...

Just brainstorming here, but couldn't I just snip the single filament socket and replace it with another 1157 dual filament socket and just use an 1157 bulb with just the low side wired? Would there be a downside to doing this?

Not in stock, unfortunately.

If someone has a source for 1095's, I'll buy ya a beer! haha

Well bummer. Both of those sources you linked for the 1095s is out of stock. I may have to give those R5Ws a shot. Thanks again.

Yeah, thanks Dan! Yep, I guess I need to pick up (or try to pick up) some 1095 bulbs. @toolmanmike - which bulbs do you run in your decklid? Do you notice a difference in light level? I do kind of like the idea of wiring in some dual filaments so they match the outer lamps. I may do that.

I noticed my '66 Dart FSM doesn't specify what tail lamp bulbs to use for the single filament bulbs in the deck lid. It calls for 1034 for the tail, stop, and turn bulb, but nothing for the corresponding deck lid tail lamp bulb. Do you guys happen to know which single filament bulb will...

Very nice work! That interior turn out great.

I love that tall front tire. Do you recall what backspace that front wheel has?

Hey can one of you guys with a '66 HT help me out. I'm installing the weatherstrip and I'm wondering how far up the A-pillar the door weatherstrip is supposed to go. Does it overlap the roofrail seal? Would someone mind snapping a photo of the weatherstrip relative to the A-pillar trim like...

Maybe a photo would help explain what I'm looking for. I'm wondering how far up the weatherstrip is supposed to go on these early hardtop A-bodies. Thanks all!

I'm getting my '66 Dart GT back together and I'm hoping someone can show me how far up the A-pillar the door weatherstrip goes. Does it end right where the vent window stops? A photo would be really appreciated. I'd imagine Valiant hardtops and early barracudas would be the same too. Thank you!

Is the package tray any different between 64, 65, and 66? I ended up just making my own. It's a pretty simple process.

Like this-

Interesting! Thank you Dan. Mine's not a day-night mirror, so I guess it's wide part up. It's strange to me how variable they seem to be. I'm seeing them both ways on cars that have likely never had the mirrors removed.

Thanks guys. I found a photo from when I got the car in 2006. The wider part was down. I did notice I'll have a little more visibility with the roll cage with the wider part to the top. I'll probably just bolt up the seat and go with whatever works best for me from there.

Can you guys confirm that the rear view mirror in my '66 Dart is upside down? I've seen them both ways, but this way looks off in my opinion. It's supposed to be wider at the bottom, right?

Any update on this build? I'd love to see the progress.

I've always figured steering and brake components aren't a place to jury-rig. That said, I'm sure as hell not paying $600 for one. I'd hold out for a used factory unit for ~$150 (if it was even needed). I had an early barracuda with a slant six centerlink and the 318 cleared just fine.

Both of them in the photo are from 66 Darts.

Yep. The top one was off of my '66 Dart (slant six). Even the non-V8 versions have a bit of a drop to them.

Maybe I missed it, but how much he asking? Seems like folks are assuming he was asking too much.

Not a Barracuda, but here are the reference photos I took of the doors on my '66 Dart hardtop before painting them along with one from after painting. I'm not sure the before photos reflected original paint, but I have no reason to think otherwise.

Check out the early A-body builds by @Jim Kueneman . He's got meticulous photos of the door internals of the early Dart and Valiant he built. It saved me a ton of time when I reassembled my '66 Dart.

Is there a fuel leak somewhere? How is mileage being calculated (i.e., how is distance being determined - gps, stock gauge, google maps, etc)?

For what it's what, I think Firm Feel has them for $400 plus whatever they charge for shipping. Still a stupid price in my opinion, but if you can't find a used one and you can't get a slant six version to work, what else are you gonna do?