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No. Needed when going to 16” and up diameter rims with over 5” backspacing Should consider 215 or 225 tires for handling

I think the new scammer deal is to create groups and the scammers themselves are the admins.

There's a new(er) Facebook scam where the scammer's create a group and use it to scam off of.

Sounds like minor stuff. But it would be very helpful if you knew the cam specs or compression. Just for future tuning. Consider buying a $50 cordless endoscope. They are very handy. I have a Depstech one. You might be able to look inside combustion chamber and read a piston part number or...

Try some google image searches. Looks like a Rocky Mountain aluminum dash fascia??? Maybe search forums for a person asking about those? Is that the 1" taller than original Super Stock scoop? Maybe search for someone asking about that?

That's why they don't give the owner's number. Washes the owner clean of the transaction and possible liabilities. Best bet is getting that when you are in negotiation. But it sounds almost like this car has been flipped a couple times, so the last owner that consigned it may know nothing...

Yes. Those are high aspect ratio drag tires with big sidewall bulge and lots of flex. You’ll need to get that rim edge away from that leaf.

Aftermarket large bolt axles push out 1/4” per side wider than a stock A-body 8 3/4. If you a have lower profile tire with not much bulge, a 4 7/8” backspacing rim might work with some thin spacers. It’s easier to adjust outwards then inwards. Would need a particular tire for sure.

Hellwig Try to get the front one made for wide front tire clearance. Might not need it now, but could in future Rear sway bar adjustable version

Big $$$ items !!

With 15x8 rims with 4.5 backspacing at 245/50/15 tires I had no touching to leaf springs or inner wheel well. It was close though. That's "stock" small bolt A-body rear width with stock axle flanges and drum brakes (just re-drilled bolt pattern). OE Leaf springs 100% stock location. That’s the...

What brake setup are you using?

It just rotates when you adjust ride height. And that’s very little rotation. Don’t make it sloppy. If it move but lot of resistance, that’s fine. The force from the adjuster screw vs force of the weight of the front end will overcome resistance. Just don’t leave it stuck.

I’ve run 15x8 steel rallyes with 4.5 backspace. With 73-76 Disk conversion and stock Upper Control Arms. And with 12” police rotors and pin calipers. So a 15x7 with 4.5 backspace will also work On my Barracuda and my Dart

I would just stay with custom 15x7 rim with 4.75” bksp. And a 225/60/15 tire. But need aftermarket upper control arm. And need check rim lip thickness/design. Otherwise the next tire is a 275/50/15 Nitto Drag Radial. That I hear is a better handling tire than BFG/Cooper stuff. For that wide a...

What's the gap between you inside rim and the outward edge of the upper control arm? Lots of factors and stack up going on here: QA1 UCA's, QA1 LCA's, willwood brakes. Makes it tougher to draw comparisons.

A-bodies are a tight. That 1/4” additional backspace is very helpful if you are trying to squeeze 225/60/15 up front.

The original poster has QA1 UCA’s. Those give about 1/4” or so more clearance. Also, they may rub at full droop. So need to check at ride height. Then you can put 1/16”, 1/8”, 3/16” spacer to fine tune the clearance (front and rear) But you are right full cast rim can reduce clearance...

15x7 rims, 225/60/15 with 4.25" minimum backspace. 4.75" best, 4.5" bksp better. Watch the very front fender lip at bottom. For rear is the car is low, same size. I have 245/60/15 on 15x7 4.25" bksp small bolt pattern on my 68 Dart it rubs the outer fender lip. car is stock ride height. 3.75...

Looking at your tires and rest of parts, I would go rubber LCA bushing, moog offset UCA bushings. And not buy this stuff: - Greasable lower control arm pin (~$125) - Lower control arm stiffening plates ($45) - Firm Feel adjustable strut rod (assuming $300 after shipping) Should have $400 or so...

CPW club Poker Ralley today

old one was a moog idler with plain bearing at the K-member end new black one has some sort of plastic bushing. No zerk to lube that end, correct? I've seen NOS replacements with plastic bushing. I think they were originally like that. The plain bearing is an aftermarket improved part.

to run stock B-body Drum spindle on a 63-72 A-body you need large ball joint upper control arms and 73-76 A-body disk lower ball joint (same as 63-72 B-body and all E-body drum and disk lower ball joints).

If you are happy with the way it drives and performs.... leave it alone. What is the fascination with 6500rpm? It's just a number. Would you be happier making the same HP and TQ at 500 more rpm than you do now? If so, you'll need more gear and you will just be tougher on your parts, especially...

If other sellers do not come because of rain, that reduces your competition of sellers.

Fall Fling 2016 This pic was near end of day. Sold a ton of stuff real early. I had stuff packed on these tarps ! See how they are empty. There was light rain in the days before. And it was a light spectator turnout.

I did $5500 at a Fall Fling. Bought out a huge stash of E-body parts from a guy to get a fraction of cool items out of the total. It was a FULL U-haul box van full of parts. I didn't have a place to store that much stuff. I had stuff laying out in my backyard, in my living room, in a full...

That is like may 68 is. The wires go through the hood inner structure.

Sonic check sheet says #5 cyl needs a sleeve. And says "rusty" Is there a rust pitting in #5 that is too deep? Will this block clean up at 0.030" ?