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My back gives me fits almost every day. I can no longer work on my feet for (good day) about 1 1/2--2 hrs, to (bad day) 1/2 hour. When I did the Dodge Ram 4WD conversion, I constantly had to say, "OK, let's go rest" and just go in and flop in the big chair. It is worse this year...

Find the light switch about 1/4 of the way from the top of 8-99. B, or B1 at bottom left is the headlights only power Follow L1-16BK down and left it goes right to the welded splice

The diagrams, some hints. Find the fuse panel, page 8-99, and look at the right side of the box marked "battery" the two on the buss. This is your panel hot buss, the stuff like brake lights, tail, hazard, that are always powered. Follow Q3-14R up and left. You will find the big...

I would DARN SURE check the alternator for a short!!! I am thinking either the wiring has been hacked (modified) or you made a mistake, or maybe the link somehow made brief contact as you were wiggling stuff. You look at that diagram, here's how the headlights power works Again, battery...

The fuse link should pretty much kill ALL power into the interior. That is in the main battery feed to the ammeter. You need to find out WHY One way to not burn the car down is to find an old headlamp, or stop/ tail lamp socket, and wire an 1157 or headlamp in series with the main...

No understand The main cable was likely no4, it does not hurt to upgrade the gauge, but good looking finding them in current so called parts stores. I would for SURE upgrade the battery to body ground, but you can actually do that from the block to the body. Use a Ford style "eye to...

Just remember that when you head down into the 4.1/ lower you are starting to generate heat in the differential, and higher, MUCH higher drive shaft RPM, so balance and design becomes a real issue

Guessin a roll back will be next project................

Watch especially, the second half. 'hard acell

OK, the strange device on the coil negative is a radio noise suppression capacitor/ condenser. It belongs on the coil POS connection You want to determine a couple of things. 1...The run voltage you checked goes through the ballast resistor to the coil. Now, that is ONLY hot with...

These are an incredibly simple system. The VR MUST be grounded. The IGN terminal of the VR receives 12V from the "run" circuit, and does two jobs--it powers the VR/ field circuit, and also is the voltage sense. The VR when the battery is low, sends field power on green to the...

Dodge, not Plymouth. That is true of several of the manuals on that site If you have not used the 73/ later factory diagrams, you are in for a good/ bad education. In that book, the other models besides A bodies are all the same old line drawings. But in 73, the A bodies, Ma went to a...

Not only that, but ammonia is one of the most dangerous and toxic chemicals on earth, in the context of pressurized refrigeration systems. And back in the old days there some pretty toxic and dangerous stuff. Methyl chloride, and sulfur dioxide. Those make LPG look like child's play

Go to MyMopar.com, download the 69 and 70 service manuals, and compare them. Where is your horn relay? At some point they moved the relay from under the hood to inside the car The BIG issue is, the 70 dash has no place for an ignition switch, if you are talking about the complete dash

I can not tell from the photo, but that might be an early 70/ later in other words isolated field. On any alternator, whether grounded field or isolated field (70/later) you need to determine if the field is continuous, if one end is grounded if you are using a 69/ early regulator...

Yup.

Normally there are only two large wires with eyelets. Some cars with accessories such as ragtops tap off the ammeter as well. The red is on one post, the black is on the other. The ammeter is a series device. Black is NOT ground (just pointing that out!!) If there are three with...

There are advantages to actual R12. It is a more efficient refrigerant

Very much. If you get something like a major short, you can wire a lamp in series with the main battery ground. Steve up there in Canada will tell you, he once had a shorted alternator.

A large size palm nailer works pretty good!!!

I would also pull out the rear seat and inspect the rear harness. The trunk lite circuit, for sure You can eliminate the hazard flashers by simply unplugging the flasher. Make sure you get that and not the turn flasher Certainly possible, the dome lamps. If this gets difficult...

You also might want to paw around your town and see ifyou can drum up an alternate brand pickup, NAPA, etc. Standard USED to be great stuff, but it's all china, anymore

Blue don't overthink. The box is grounded and there are 4 wires. 2X are the pickup, the black is coil NEG and the one left over is power From what I remember, and what you and I suspect it seems to me If you can get it to quit........ 1...Immediately measure coil neg which should be...

If the coil V readings are normal run the tap test. If NG the pickup is likely not the problem

Jack up one wheel, and I assume there is no drive shaft. If you can turn that one wheel, with the other on the ground, it is open. Now turn that wheel TWO exact turns and count the driveshaft. That is your ratio If you did the 1T accurately 2X 1.5 is about 3, so might be a 3.23.

Once again, to eliminate pickup, run the "tap test." If you don't get a healthy spark, it likely is not the pickup

Correct, what I was attempting to point out. The coil side is the lower resistance. Maybe a high speed miss with more resistance. Look up your coil specs. The coil/ resistor specs, over the years are in the back end of chapter 8 in the manuals. You can download them free, from...

It may not be only length, but u joint size.

The two ammeter wires most likely and YOU MUST BE CAREFUL. The big black with an eyelet is the load side of the ammeter and also goes out and connects to the alternator. The big RED with an eyelet comes DIRECT FROM THE BATTERY and is POORLY FUSED by the fuse link. You must bolt...

Wonder if you can get them to reproduce?