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I have found that for me to stay focused, I need to make lists and check stuff off as I go. For me, I would first concentrate on getting all of the jamb work done on the paint. Take everything that will unbolt off of it and paint the door jambs, bottoms of hood & decklid, insides of fenders...

If I lived in the flat country and needed a ride around truck that would tow stuff less heavy than a car trailer, I might consider a V6 Ram. About a year before I retired, the company truck I drove was due to be replaced, and they were buying V6 Ram quad cabs. I borrowed one from a co-worker one...

LOL.....I know the feeling brother! I have CRS, CSS myself! :thumbsup:

Are you sure it wasn't @68HemiRR ?

I leave feedback for everyone I buy from, no matter how many times I am a repeat customer. I have only had one bad transaction as long as I've been here. Everybody else has been great to deal with! I guess one slow assed, foot dragging, excuse making seller/shipper in 12 years ain't too bad.....lol.

I used to have a 72 340 3 speed Duster that was Winchester Gray! It had black interior though. I sold it to a guy who kept bugging me about it. He said he was gonna jump on it and fix it. It still hasn't been done! :BangHead: At least it's sitting inside though.

That thing is cool ! You should rig up a swivel crane with a boat trailer winch in one corner of the bed. If for nothing else, it would make it easy to get the floor jack that weighs more than you do in and out of the bed. :)

Looks like a good haul AL. Pressure testing the neighbors right off the bat.....lol.

You're doing a great job George. They just give red paint away, don't they? :poke: :eek: Red has always been the most expensive color, even before covid decided paint shout triple in price! Are any of your neighbors bitchin about you spraying?

A few more places to check if it still leaks. Make sure there is a foam seal between the hole in the firewall and the plate around the steering column, where the column goes thru the firewall. You should be able to see it best from the engine compartment side. Also, look in the door jambs, right...

Looks like it's doing fine. If you're using the extra slow activator in the clear, it should be fine in that heat. It looks like it is matching up really well, painting it a panel or 2 at a time.

AL at the first FL parts pick! :lol:

But, but, but....is that the solid lifter valve cover, the hydraulic lifter valve cover, the solid roller valve cover, the hydraulic roller valve cover, or the Now who valve cover is the blackest valve cover? LOL......guess people can argue about it for 47 more pages...

Who's on first? :lol:

Well.....it did give me a "Wait? What?" moment and made me get off my butt and go out and see if mine will work! And it does.....one hernia later! I forgot how heavy a /6 head is! :BangHead:

Uh oh! Guess I'd better go check and see if the one I have fits the head on my science project! Thanks Rob.

Will the valve cover he was selling not physically bolt onto the slant six head in your car? I don't know a lot about them, but I would think an NOS chrome Direct Connection valve cover would bolt onto any slant 6 of the 70-ish era.

My 95 Craftsman riding mower is the same color as that Dart, and it yard drives too! It isn't rusty and it mows.......even though my yard is steep and I ride it like a dirt bike because I HATE weedeating. My poor ol 74 Swinger that I junked out cause it was rusty looked better than that Dart...

Maybe check with @moparmarks and see if he might have one. He had 47 doors listed a while back, and I think a lot of them were truck doors. He might even have some beat up doors he would cut inner panels from and sell you to weld in.

Here’s what my 88 door looks like. Appears to be the same as the ones George posted above. This is a power window door, but I don’t think that matters.

Kevin...I'll try to get you one of the drivers door on my 88. The panel is off, so it won't take but a minute. It's a power window door, but I don't think that matters.

Are you going to add a trailer brake controller with it? I've had a Tekonsha Prodigy in my Dodge diesel for 20 years and never had a split second of trouble with it. Your hitch turned out great!

Edit for correction. The original perches still on the housing measure 33/64 in the center hole, NOT 13/64 as I originally stated. I was trying to keep too many numbers in my head to get back to the house from the garage, so I could post easier on the laptop instead of my phone. :realcrazy:

Y'all are exactly right!! I was trying to keep too many numbers in my head and posted the wrong one for the originals, which I will go back and edit now. I went out and measured the original again and it is 33/64. That's the half way good one....the other one is toast! Sorry for the mix up...

I said the originals measured 13/64, if you look at the first post again. It's barely big enough for a 1/2" drill bit to fit the hole on the original that is still on the housing....but wallowed out from too many years of side stepping the clutch. :eek: The perches are on an A body 8 3/4...

I like the Moroso ones after looking at them when @Icetech mentioned them a bit ago. If I were putting them in something besides a run of the mill street car, I would fix the ends to mimic the MP ones so they would be less prone to break.

Those would work good, and save fiddling with making bushings. :thumbsup:

Are they curved up at the ends like the factory ones? Wouldn't matter in my putt around 65 Barracuda, but if you put perches without the ends being somewhat boxed by the curved up ends, a high HP car will wad them up in short order.

Just posting what my ultra high dollar Harbor Freight digital calipers said. Dana asked for a pic of the new ones vs old, and there it is. The hole in the old one still on the housing may be out of whack. Holes in both old perches are wallowed out and the one above is the best one. I plan on...