Search results for query: *

Is the PP diaphragm or B&B? (edit- just noticed it's Centerforce, so diaphragm). I would swap out the paddle for a Ram style dual friction disc, which will have far better street manners and be much easier on the drivetrain. I would also take the weights off the CF pressure plate. That will...

If you slip that thin sleeve on with a little red loctite, it's not going anywhere. Long ago I modified my Ford Toploader use the cheaper GM version of the Howe hyd t-bearing, although in my case it was simply turning down the od of the Toploader retainer. Back around 2010 they had a problem...

30% heavier with two less pistons to spin it up! Grant

The 1.9 60' probably had an rpm flare before the clutch hit, which would give you some of the benefits of a higher rpm launch at the cost of a little reaction time. A /6 crank is likely quite a bit heavier than a typical V8 crank, which means it will absorb quite a bit more piston output as it...

On my old 16x60 South Bend, I just made a simple tool post holder that I clamp a die grinder onto with hose clamps. Carbide burr in the die grinder. The lathe spindle indexed on the spline or dog tooth I want to remove, then locked. From there, I just manually move the carriage and cross slide...

Counterclockwise adjustments to the 'tamer's inner dial should fix the bog :) Grant

It's a 15 x 12" wide wheel. Grant

Here's a set of 275/60 on 12" wheels, going on my sbc powered RX-7... 13.5" section width. Grant

Too much clutch is what will kill that 23spl, not a glued track or sticky tires. Not sure which McLeod twin you have, but even the least rated version will need some hit softening for your application. Grant

I have actually used a single modified pcv valve as a crankcase vacuum source for over 10 years now. Street driven 355sbc that occasionally sees 8600rpm, but with a sealed crankcase that does not draw external air. Engine is sealed up pretty good, not much actual flow velocity to carry oil out...

Grant

If you are going to the trouble of fabbing up a pinion snubber, for just a little more effort you could be different and put a torque arm on it. Small shackle on the front of the TA eliminates suspension bind and you still have street friendly articulation. I've built hundreds of TA's over the...

...of converting a rear steer car's stock Ackerman geometry to anti-Ackerman geometry.... ...Textbook Ackerman generally keeps all 4 tires aligned 90* to a common radius center as the front tires are steered. Basically the inside front tire needs to turn a tighter arc than the outside front...

I installed a crank trigger on my street/strip small block, but also kept the MSD distributor trigger as a back-up. Now that I can switch back and forth between triggers, I could put a curve back in the distributor for street use if I wanted to. Grant

I worked for Al's Auto Supply back in the 70's, the chain sponsored Hank Johnson at the time. We had a Mr Gasket shifter display over by the speed parts wall, always someone over there banging gears with the V-gate. Displays like that were a big part of the speed shop atmosphere at the time :)...

When H pattern ergonomics is right, there is no V-gate advantage. For me the deciding factor was my H pattern shifter is lighter than a V-gate. I also tightened the slider travel distance up when I installed my faceplates, only 2" total throw distance at the shift knob :) Here's the slider...

No experience here, but it's hard to imagine accel pump shear plates helping a WOT 2-step launch. I think they would improve street/strip driveability, especially with a big carb, clutch pedal, and not much vacuum. Grant

Might be Dave Lolly, I believe he lives in Burlington which is south of Bellingham. Drives a red/white wing car to the friday nite car show at the Burgermaster drive-in in Mt Vernon. Grant

I've got quite a few SEGA customers :) Grant

Assuming proper traction, the clutch's engagement rate is what determines how much peak impact energy your drivetrain parts will see. A clutch that takes 0.15 sec to pull the engine down after a WOT shift will impact the drivetrain roughly twice as hard as a clutch that pulls the engine down in...

On the other side of the stick shift spectrum, when clutch hit is controlled by a 'tamer stiff walls are not needed. Also saves you the added cost of running tubes. The ability to run higher tire pressure in-turn reduces the need for screws, less rolling resistance is an added bonus. Not many...

The drum and disc Explorer axles are the same length. With two short side axles the rear will be 56-1/2" axle flange/axle flange. Drums are 1/8" thick and will add 1/4" overall, discs are thicker and will add 1/2" overall. All 5x4-1/2" lug pattern. All Explorer 8.8's had 31spl axles and came...

Although some guys have been known to adjust the 'tamers near the starting line when strapped in, it might be possible to add an arm somewhere in the linkage and locate the cylinder more vertical up by the firewall. Although out of reach for a strapped in driver, it would still be more...

Back in 1975, i bought a new Hapco clutch for my '65 Chevelle from my local hero's, at the time the F/MP national record holder... Les sold me a 3300lb B&B with an organic disc for my tunnel rammed 301 with a Muncie and 4.88's. Bog city with an aluminum flywheel, but I was still a happy high...

I don't have a problem with the different friction materials, or even the dual friction disc, they just need to be matched with a pressure plate that provides an appropriate amount of clamp pressure for that friction material and application. The problem is the typical aftermarket manufacturer...

I think modern clutch control would improve the clutch/automatic quite a bit, but the splits you get from 4 or 5 gears would still come out ahead of a 3spd. Grant

Like I said before, a clutch rating is just a quick/dirty way for the typical aftermarket clutch buying customer to feel assured that the clutch they buy isn't going to slip against the torque their engine is capable of. From the perspective of the aftermarket clutch manufacturer, if the clutch...

Thanks for the feedback guys! Grant

Using your brakes also creates heat and shortens brake life, but as long as you do not overheat them they will last a good long while. Same with a clutch. We are talking extending slip time a few tenths of a second, which can make a huge difference in terms of impact on the drivetrain. If you...

The focus of the post isn't component weight, it's about why you should avoid overkill amounts of clutch clamp pressure. It's not uncommon to see a car with an overkill clutch shave half a second off it's et by installing a more suitable clutch, might have to add 75-100hp to net a similar gain...