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Should be fine.

I’m not sure if I would have eventually put that together or not.

The question I have is……. What is a “SBE”?

At this point I’d say, between the changes and the weather………it doesn’t appear to be a “win”. On the plus side, you got to make some runs and didn’t break anything.

Anecdotal taller tire story….. My dad used to have a 79 Cordoba as a bracket car. Full bodied, full interior car. A bit over 3900lbs race weight. Bracket race type 360 in it. 5000 stall, 4.56’s, 28x10.5’s on it. Ran high 11’s in decent air. Slicks wore out……he never liked the looks of the 28”...

Was the exhaust open or closed(the same) for both outings?

Were the 60’ times better or worse than before? My thoughts for the early part of the track is that advancing the cam and the taller tires are somewhat cancelling each other out.

Good luck!!:thumbsup::steering:

That’s not at all uncommon……..and is one of the benefits of cutting the spring pockets. It gives you the opportunity to even them out.

I don’t recall on that set, but it would have been minimal. In the past when I was building some circle track engines, the springs we were running needed pretty tall installed heights, and I was cutting the spring pockets .050-.060” deeper. May not have been the wisest plan, but never had one...

Found it: Speedmaster magnum inspection w/Justin

Seems like I recall “Moparofficial” buying a pair of SM magnum heads, and what they initially sent him was two heads that weren’t a matching pair. I’m pretty sure there was a thread on it…….. with various stages of prep.

Easy peasy

Any plans to make some passes with that thing?

I just made a sleeve that slides in the 11/32 guide to locate the 5/16 valve.

Two members on this board(that I know of) have ported factory heads that developed holes after they were put in service. Both used Belzona to plug the hole. One has been in service several years, the other only a couple seasons so far.

Belzona Super Metal will fix that right up. Expensive, but it works, and holds up against ethanol blended fuels.

Buy the new heads and have them gone over.

In situations like that I usually end up machining the heads for spring cups. Then if necessary you can shim under the cup, or even inside it.

The B1-BA assembled heads std pkg comes with 2.08/1.60 valves. My only real gripes about these heads are: -They’re not real user friendly -They’re pretty expensive for what they are

If someone “had to” use those pistons with heads that had the Ede style chamber………if you modified the chamber and the piston, you could probably remove enough material between the two to make it work. It would depend on how thick the piston and head are in the offending areas.

What do they cost these days? Are they actually available? I ported a set of the DIRT legal version, which are basically the same but have a raised “SPEC” cast into the ports. With a 2.08 intake valve those flowed 300cfm with a basic porting job. Edit- looks like about $2350 bare, and $3600...

I’d rather port on the aluminum heads.

Fwiw, I hope you use the thin Cometics. Then we’d both know if that was over the edge or not.

If I were building it for a customer, and it absolutely positively had to run on pump gas, it would get the thick gaskets.

Wow, that’s a first!! I’d probably flow another hole and see what you get. I can see putting the new valves in, in your situation. You have the valves and the means to do the job. It’s just some time. If the new valves are single groove, that’s all the more reason to swap them. I’m actually...

I doubt the bigger valve will do all that much for the seat for the pants feel in the vehicle.

We all have our own way we like to do things. In a mild application like this, I’m not going to get overly concerned with having a steep top angle. So, I’d run a shallower angle, which would give me more top angle length with less lowering of the seat depth.

Good info. What I’d do is balance the crank with whichever plate would suit the immediate need(auto or std). Then modify the other plate(if possible) to duplicate the imbalance of the first one. Quick thought……..is one of them for a Magnum?

I’ve had success putting grooves inside the rocker to connect the machined groove in the ID of the body to the pushrod oil feed hole on rockers where the distance between the two was fairly long.