Search results for query: coupler pin

You may be set for a cursing session. If you very very carefully removed the original cap from that coupler you could reuse/reinstall it. Creating the "bottle cap like" crimping on the new replacement cap isn't easy. Worst case scenario... You think its good to go, then while driving the roll...

It will be much easier to remove the column than it would be to try to do this in the car. To get the bearing over the end of the steering column you have to remove the pin that holds the coupler on, and it should be pressed out.

Just push (Drive) the pin out on the coupler then remove the 3 bolts to firewall and the 3 nuts to dash support and you can lower down and pry the coupler loose to remove the whole assembly . Being carefull not to colapse the shaft during the process .

I've been trying to remove and replace my power steering gear box and I am having trouble getting the coupler pin drilled out and even drive it out. Does anyone know what size the pin is so I am using the right size bit. Ive never seen anything so difficult in my lifetime to remove even with pb...

I replaced mine a couple months ago. I was able to use a pickle fork and a hammer. It took some effort but she finally came free. Getting it back on was a different story. I ended up having to use a 2x4 against the frame until I could start to see the back end of the ball through the pin hole...

Yep, those and the seal to keep the grease in. I tried to get the shaft that holds the shoes out of mine, but it wouldnt budge. Ended up leaving it and changing everything else. Dont lose the little pin...

The clip? It keeps the seal from falling off the coupler. If you've never had the seal come off all I can say is you must be a lot better at getting those tabs bent and secured than I am or somehow got a special one from the factory. The u-joint? The stock couplers wear out, and have a...

You can use a ball joint fork to pry the coupler off the steering box splines. Just be sure to take out the big roll pin first.

I may be confused The coupler - to steering box depth is controlled by a notch in the shaft "past which" the roll pin fits, thus locating the coupler on the box The coupler to column has two "shoes" in there with a certain amount of play. The only thing holding it...

Yeah that's it. If you put the engine in first, you will have to push the T-bars out to the back, and pull the column out, in addition to dropping the steering and oil filter. If you try bolting them on with the engine above the frame-rails, well, that just will not work. mguner nailed it. You...

Awesome! Looking forward to seeing the pics. AlV

I started to modify a lean burn distributor. Any distributor will work, but the lean burn has fewer parts to start with. The ignition works with a a shutter wheel locked to distributor shaft. The pickup is an optical vane sensor, but that will be covered later. The first step was to...

The following parts can be removed and discarded: bearing, spring and keeper off steering shaft and the shift tube and white nylon bushing. Since I'm using a Flaming River power steering coupler I'm also discarding the stock coupler and the cross pin that hold the "shoes" the coupler rides on...

Thanks. I just find the factory design horrible. There are so many parts involved when a simple U joint would have done the trick. I have had them knock, squeak, rattle and make all kinds of noises and even had the pin rust in two ad break and fail the coupler completely. As in steering wheel...

Just because people have gotten away with it doesn't mean it's the right way to do it. Unfortunately, guys do a lot of things that seem to have "no ill effects" that would bite them in the *** if they drove their cars more than a few thousand miles per year. Even with poor tolerances...

A lot of people have trouble with the coupler it seems. I have yet to tackle mine but it definitely needs a rebuild. From what I've read the pin only goes in and comes out on one side. Let me know how you like the lower control arms, I've been thinking about picking those up myself. Very cool...

First steering coupler is for a manual steer box. What you see is what you get. Shoes, roll pin, and other parts included. Spring clip NOT included. Please note- this coupler is off a 65, so it uses the shallow spring clip as outlined in the following link: Asking $30 plus shipping from...

The coupler uses a roll pin and only goes in and out through the side that has a cup to the hole. Also hammering on it is pretty hard on the input shaft and seal. On a box that I plan on keeping I block the shaft on the underside. Then I use a large pry bar to slide off the coupler, not a...

I know it! Had this problem myself. Once you get the correct "chisel" don't know the exact name, but it is 5/16. Make sure you are pounding the right way, it only comes out one way.

I just got done makeing a 200 dollar flameing river coupler work on the same exact combination. had to machine the coupler down to 1/4 inch wall on column side and that only left about 1/16th clearance. i welded the column shaft to the coupler. just couldn't live with the roll pin. it came out good

I don't think there's a problem in the gear box. easy way to find out thought... turn the steering wheel to straight up and see if the pitman is 90 degrees off. In this position tou could also see the roll pin at the coupler in vertical position, on the engine side of the shaft.

A few years ago, I was rebuilding the steering coupler in one of my 1970 Darts and was able obtain a big wire clamp that goes over the coupler and holds the cap on. It came with a Chrysler service bulletin that gave detailed instructions on rebuilding the joint and installing the clamp, which...

I love the whole setup from QA1 - obviously don't have it installed yet but it's very nice for sure - worth the money? time will tell when the big block goes in haha But ya I've tried pounding on it on both sides to free it up and it juts won't budge in either direction - sad as my rougher...

While I had my column out during resto work, I decided to take it apart and also restore it as best I can. So I took it all apart and blasted and painted the parts. Put it back together and I am now trying to install the lower shaft coupler to steering box. What I am finding is that the...

I had trouble removing it from my 72 Dart. I sprayed the coupler around the roll pin with Kroil oil, unbolted the steering column from the firewall, more kroil oil, unhooked the tranmission linkage, a little more kroil oil, then blocked underneath the coupler, aligned it where I could see the...

I sold my 1969 Plymouth Barracuda about a year ago due to a family situation. I was intending to put this coupler on my car, but never did. This is a NEW Flaming River Mopar Power Steering Coupler (FR150P)- Includes instruction sheet, but will have to purchase the roll pin from any...

With the steering gear centered straight ahead the master spline will be on the top. The coupler has a tiny notch it the outer leading edge relative to the naster spline location inside. If you got it started on at all the master spline is probably right. You're not the first to fight this...

if you are having trouble sliding the column into the coupler check that the little pin is not interfering (near the top of the coupler)

I recently had to reset the tin top cover that holds gasket on the coupler. I had someone do some other work on the car and didn't secure it properly. I've since ordered a new top cover and rubber gasket. I'll put them back on carefully after I regrease everything after I pull the column to...

Well got stuck on the steering column coupler (pin holding it to the box) - probably gotta drill it out as pounding it does nothing so got a slow start to tearing the front suspension apart.. SO I found Mancini had the kit so I made a small order from them - firewall gasket kit, wiper seal kit...