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Originally they used a flanged nut with the serrations. A drop of loc-tite is never a bad idea on these.

50/60=0.83 x 37 = 30.83. So by the math anyway, 31 T gear should get you close.

Yes. 66 & newer A833's use the same adapter/gear as the 727, 904, etc. Yes, you have to make sure they are indexed properly for the gear being used.

I fixed it.

We make the original style 67-76 A-body boot with the rectangular hole for the PG. http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.php?prod=SB764R

If the speedometer is slow, you would want to decrease the number of teeth on the gear. I would drive the car off GPS (phone has one) at 60 mph, and then reference the speedometer in the car. We can do the math from there to account for discrepancies in tire size/gear ratio/speedometer...

No way to verify without having a shop check it. It could also have been done for 400/440 cast crank engine also. It's a lot of work to put it together, only to find out it's not right. Might be better to just buy what you know is correct for your application.

We have new ones in stock if you can't locate one here. Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists

Check the dimensions of the crank.

Yes, trans would need to be apart to seal it like I described above. You could just clean and seal it as-is, not sure how well it will work.

This is my process. I have been putting about a 1/8" chamfer in the bore. Once the shaft is close, I clean & dry the bore with brake kleen. Then wipe the bore with silicone. Sometimes there will be a scrape, or some rust pitting in the bore, and this helps fill those small voids.

Automatic is a completely different animal even with the same 1st gear ratio. My Demon had the 2.47 R in there when I bought the car, and I have no regrets swapping to the 3.09. It drives so much better.

3.09 gearset will swap into your cases without any other modifications. I run this gearset in my 72 Demon, with 3.23 axle and 27" tire. Bumpy cam in a very mild 360 SB, and it drives really well. I can easily maneuver the car at idle. I have plans to either put a 2.94 gear in the car or get...

Here is another one with the factory references in place.

I haven't got around to finishing this one, but the parts are there.

72 Demon, tuff wheel with correct adapter. Stock shifter/handle.

Like others have mentioned, that handle looks bent to me, and the wrong steering wheel. If I remember when I go home, I'll take a picture of the handle/wheel in my 72 Demon.

Side by side

7036 was used 69-71, and was the press-in style. 72 & newer used the 7926 that was the 2-bolt style. Other than that, both handles the same as you can see.

Should install without any modification to the rods, or clip.

122 tooth wheels have 10.625" bolt pattern. You could measure from the edge of the disc to the CENTER of a pressure plate bolt. If it has a 9.25" disc, measurement should be around 0.687". 9.5" disc = 0.562" 10.0" disc = 0.312"

None of the ones I posted have a Vin number. They came out of Rod Shop years ago. All were new transmissions that were cannibalized for parts.

I've never kept up with that stuff real well, but here are a few examples. These are original, not someone's interpretation of what they "should" look like.

Make sure you check the bore runout. Use the smaller 130 tooth flywheel even though it can be used with either.

Is that a Lakewood bellhousing? If so, I wouldn't use it unless you are planning on hydraulic clutch linkage...even then there are some issues that need addressed.

My info says 48.96" cj-cj. I would measure as a double check. With the suspension loaded, bottom out the yoke in the trans....measurement (A) center joint to center joint. Then subtract 0.75-1.00".

118 is considered standard, and what I have always used.

You have what you need then, as the prints have already been posted. It is helpful to drill a pilot hole to the proper 0.660" depth first, I usually start with something around 3/8" or 10mm.

Those are a copy of the McLeod weight kits, and are used on a steel flywheel that is flat and smooth on the engine side. Cast flywheels are neither. And beyond that, you still need to know where to drill/tap so it bolts in place.

The other option here is that we can re-balance your existing flywheel for cast crank applications. I only do this on factory flywheels that are neutral balance now, the cost is $45.00 plus any shipping as applicable. For the 360/400/440 options, the drill bit will cost more than that.