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my guess would be because the small red wire is getting power when the key is off

Corrosion of bare steel is usually due to condensation. I would get that in my garage in Atlanta. No problem in my garage in drier California now, but I still get condensation outside under a carport in winter, even dripping from metal rafters. It is due to the temperature changes, which are...

:welcome: from :canada:

You can mill the 360 heads by like .030-.040" I forget exactly and keep at least stock cr.

Truly. The Progressive Ignition app allows from 0 degrees on up for adding vacuum advance plus control of whichever vacuum it is set at and reacts to. In my case, it was adding less than 10 degrees. The root of my problem was even that is too much at lower engine speeds. I think I may have...

Yes that problem will be solved, however why is the existing positive coil wire powered when key is off?

Switching to 360 typically drops compression a point or more. Older 318s were higher in compression. Cleaning up the ports on the 318 would be ideal rather than giving up compression.

Yes, I liked it right up to the point where it ran into my ignorance.

@mopartim is correct the tuner makes all the difference.

As said in post 4 hook that small red wire to switched power and all will be good . Good luck .

I see these are the smaller 273/318 ports. They are .125 thi thick though. DODGE SCE Gaskets 169106 SCE AccuSeal E Intake Gaskets | Summit Racing

If you got the cr I'd go with the 360 heads. You'll probably get a mix of opinions on it, to me 360 heads are a decent performance head for a 318.

:welcome: from :canada: We need pictures!

I've been running an Extreme Automatics Stage 2 - 2004R transmission with a 3800rpm stall converter with 3-carbon fiber lock-up clutches in my 408 Magnum powered '68 Barracuda convertible for nearly a decade now. It's the best performing transmission I've ever had the pleasure of owning. It's...

torque your lugnuts , sounds stupid but seen it before .

Well,,,,you had 35 locked in,,,,,so at idle or wide open,,,it’s at least 35 . Then you add a vacuum can that adds ,,what,,,,another 20 maybe ? Sounds like a recipe for disaster . Sorry for the damage,,,,but it can be fixed,,,it’s only money ! Tommy

Flat top as in stock or (near) zero deck aftermarket ? Hopefully the second one. What rear gears ? Got links to the cams or just copy paste their specs here.

THat's for a POLY engine not the LA small blocks.

Thanks guys, you’ve given me a good clue on where to look. That will be tonights job keep you posted

OMG, I'm so excited!! :thankyou: Super pictures~ I love the shifter and ball, so retro;)

I listened to your stuff when you posted here on FABO. :thumbsup:

So the unit performed as you programmed it but you had too much advance? Anyone can put too much advance whether it is a mech distributor or the PI. Sorry for your loss.

Wouldn’t the +original coil wire be on switched power?

So what have others used on their 273 four barrel? RockAuto shows this one on a 318 Fury in 1965, but I don't think it's correct for my application. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-ms9344sh

there is a small wire that goes to switched power .

Ok so I'm build a 318 stock bore flat top pistons new bottom end either a 454 lift cam or a 480 lift summit grind 4 speed is putting 360 J heads on it going to help it or hurt it

Is this small red wire connected to a switched 12v source? If so, my understanding is that no current should be drawn from the large red battery wire until 12v is applied to that small red wire. No additional relays should be necessary. If that small red wire has constant power, then that may be...

8200 DiabloSport inTune i3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075C8V9KX?tag=fabo03-20 This?

And now, the rest of the story... Let me preface this by saying I was running my timing locked-out at 35* for years prior to wanting to add vacuum advance to my RB. I also have overdrive and 4.10's on 28" tall 325/50x15's. I though that vacuum advance would enhance my operating envelope...