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I assume you have the stator sealing rings also in place

I like his videos. I don’t get to watch all of them. But the ones I’ve watched I thought were good. Lots of info he gives has been taught to me by my mentor so it’s good to see others out there operating with the same school of thought and experience. Being a youngin I try to learn as much as I can.

It can get cocked sideways even with the spring from what I’ve read. My preference is simply the blocker rod for a few reasons but mainly it’s one less part inside to fail or malfunction. I’m typically dealing with high performance units for drag racing the street units I’ve built, no one has...

Happy to hear you found the issue. For what it’s worth, I don’t build a single transmission using the accumulator spring. I use a blocker rod on every unit including street transmissions. Not using a spring or blocker rod and letting the accumulator “float” is just fine.

Where did you get a cam and converter from?

Awesome

If you know your going to end up buying the Meziere pump, may as well try and cut your existing water pump like you said cause if it gets messed up or doesn’t work, you already planned on buying the meziere

https://www.manciniracing.com/mopbrbhemrol.html

Happy to hear it!

Msd 6 will work just fine for your car but a 7al2+ would be better (if you can afford it). As far as a coil, a pro power coil is what I would go with. (For drag race only). Just my opinion.

Will do, and on another note Korie. My dad had me order him the K&R wiring kit for his Roadrunner last night.

Well things escalated quickly on this build. As you can go back through and see the progression from the original intention. Well now they just went one step further. Knowing the 511 would be a cool setup with the victor heads, the stock block still remained the weak point no matter what. After...

Ahh now my memory is refreshed. I couldn’t remember what we discussed if the 46 or 48 would be the way to go but now I remember the 46 is what Paul recommended. I’m happy you got a Turbo action converter and went with the recommendation from Paul. I think you’ll be happy with his converter. I...

Hell ya! What I like to hear.

Happy to hear you bought Fred. What turbo action converter did you go with? As in what part number?

I really am not sure why it does that. I haven’t gotten a good enough look at it in person to inquire about it. I’ll bring that to my friends attention. He may actually be buying another 68 Cuda. Running car, turn key. With a 540” engine in it, supposedly aftermarket block but unsure of so many...

No updates to report. Still waiting on machine shop so we can start on the engine.

New rings, bearings, head gaskets and other gaskets. New valve springs, rebuild lifters or replace (depending on run count). New belt, crank seal, and cam seal (belt drive). ATI damper sent to ATI to be rebuilt. (I no longer run the ATI damper but when I did, I had it rebuilt with every...

Personally I’d stay away from today’s solid flat tappet lifters. Just my opinion.

I would put it in the rear of the pan. The pan I use had a boss thick enough to drill and tap. You can either weld a bung in the back of the pan, or drill a hole and use a bulk head fitting if there isn’t enough aluminum to run a tap through.

Pan is the best place to put it in my opinion.

I run an electric temp gauge with the sensor in the back of the trans pan. Simple drill and tap for the fitting thread size and your good to go. I like electric over mechanical because when I service the transmission, I don’t have to worry about pulling the sender out of the pan, I can just...

Ya I’d put a deeper pan and bigger cooler on it. Itll help keep it out of the 220 range.

I don’t think you’re running out of fluid. But I certainly would put a deep pan on it and a bigger trans cooler. How hot you talking during round robin?

Aftermarket with a switch panel. If you still want to use the key to crank the engine over, that’s easy, just don’t use the ballast resistor because they go bad. So make sure the ignition is wired through a a separate switch. Take your pick, painless, K&R (my personal choice), ARC, Digital...

Second on the Russler II. He can make any diaper for your oil pan. And very reasonably priced.

Lots to do this winter at the Bowman Performance shop and BPR Transmissions. Tim and I got my engine 99% finished a few weeks ago. Waiting on machine shop to cut the intake so the ports will line up, then it will be 100% done. That will need dropped in my Demon before spring to start the...

You can always keep the 7AL2 in the vehicle in case of a grid failure. That’s what I did with my 7AL2+ after I bought the grid.

On a small block I’m not sure Wally. I know on a big block B-body they need removed to get the trans out.

Spot on