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You have the right to sell your stuff to whomever you choose.

Steve, almost with no exception, the Summit Racing private brand of parts is made in USA. So I'd look at Summit gears. I wouldn't be a bit scared of um.

The ign timing, initial & otherwise, is always the 'safety valve' number. That is because the car maker does not know what sort of load is going to be put on the engine by the end user. So the #s are conservative.

This looks alot like a Barracuda I saw deiving around Berwyn IL between 200 and 2005. The owner talked to me at a car show i was at with my Valiant. He tried to sell me both for around $1400. I may have considered it if i had a place to put it, but i was paying to store my stalled 70...

I think you're on the right track- nibble away at it here and there until you're happy with it! Overkill can be your own worst enemy sometimes.

The torque convertor will make the biggest difference, the gear change will help a little it's up to you if it worth the $$$ and effort.

awesome, thanks for the tip. i have a pirate acct so if i unearth something that's a great resource to have.

thanks a bunch, if i can't source what i'm looking for i'll definitely be hitting you up.

thanks, that's super valuable information. no biggie on the headliner, my car doesn't have any! lolz.

My thinking is to increase both gearing and tc modestly?? Am I wrong in thinking this? I'm looking to possibly add some pep without adding BIG gears, and/or BIG TC.

Well ireally hope you get tis and get it going again.

Forget the first guy if, for no other reason, than he ignored your payment type request.

About 20 years ago, I bought a complete 489 housing center section with 3.55 gears and Sure Grip from Randy's Ring and Pinion. It was all new parts including the housing. It has performed flawlessly. They are still in business at this website: www.randysworldwide.com

Thought... Could you drill out the mangled threads, tap them the next larger thread? I would have non-issue on using properly installed inserts on the pan bolts

I don't see the point of arguing, if what I said has no relevance for the OP's situation he can just ignore what I said, no biggie, plus you don't need to drag race to want to improve acceleration.

I pulled the engine out of my '78 Good Times van. The front radiator support unbolts, had to remove the intake manifold and stick the cherry picker right down in the valley. Not real difficult, just use your head, take your time. Not sure about taking it out through the cargo door.

I assume so- he did say next to zero track time. Maybe once for his bucket list.

True, could be why the OP doing it or maybe not.

Does the first guy live in Delaware, that sounds like a Bigboy 68 move.

It's not ALL about acceleration, sometimes it's just about enhancing street manners and drivability- keeping the engine happiest where you do the majority of your driving.

You probably want to be specific on what years of seats you're talking about, but generally what RAT ROD AL said is true.

I don't think a 1/4 of a ratio is gonna make a huge difference in acceleration for the time, effort and $$$. It's like going from 29" tires to 26".

Doctor Diff- manufacturer seems to depend on the ratio and carrier. Not sure of the country of origin on some of them, some (like the 3.55/741) seem to be his own brand. Could always ask him. Not a bad price, either.

Sorry, 8.5 chassis certified, sub frame connectors motor plate and 8 pt cage plus the J bars.. only thing is J bars are 2 piece. A pillar to firewall plate. Plate to front frame rails. If I cut out the aprons I would make solid bars from A pillars to frame rails.

Nope, it's alive. Greetings Everybody

Not so much, as it's gone.:(

Hey all, I'm contemplating a diff gear change from our factory 323 to 355. I'm not looking for top of the line, but want quality and NA made, if possible. Next to zero track time(once for the bucket list) Mfg recommendations?? Thanks Steve

Sounds like the first guy had plenty of time and dropped the ball on several levels. Move on to the next in line and don't look back.

I thought it was "340 4 Bubble".

You need aprons(inner fenders) or solid structural support(j bars?)to fire wall or better yet to a full cage. Since you compromised the structural integrity of the apron’s with holes for fenderwell headers, the only choice now is obvious. All you are doing to lose weight by compromising...