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I’m using these with a SFT with .552” lifts at the valves and installed at 1.725” range.

I shut it off at 2300rpms, so I assumed it was caused by that. I didn’t want it to idle yet. Thanks! One more question: I’ve got the drivers side rockers off tonight and was inspecting the pushrods and found one that has a scrape all around the diameter. No marks along the length of the rod. It...

Tried to fire it up again and it lit, but I couldn’t get the rpms up to start the fun. After about 5 seconds or so, I shut it down and added more advance. Then, one pump and turned the key and it fired up again. It ran rough for the first 10 seconds or so as I kept trying to get the rpm’s up. A...

I have everything back together and recharging the battery. I will take off the hold down tonight and get rid of that notch. Thanks for the info!!

Ok, been in the garage. Balancer still at 20, #1 still coming up on comp, rotated the dist gear one and two teeth, back to one. The dist hold down is in the middle’ish of the adjustment and the rotor is facing forward/drivers side, and the rotor is on the #1 mark that I made for the cap.

4spd: The dist connector is bottomed out as I just checked it. I will try to relocate that spring at a lower point. Thanks

I understand. But before I do so, my dist does not have any more CCW tuning left before it hits the hold down bracket. Should I rotate the dist one tooth first? Or, since the balancer is on 20 now, just rotate the dist CW to lineup more with the rotor?

Coming up on TDC (piston towards the top and the balancer on the 20 degree mark) with thumb feeling pressure on #1, the picture of the rotor is about the same. Second picture shows #1 dist location.

U Bob: it is a solid flat tappet. I forgot to add that in my post. Turned the balancer to TDC and the #1 piston is at the top. This is where the dist is pointing. Thanks guys!

Tried to start up my 340/420 today and it won't fire. Cranks great (it spun freely for 3-4 seconds only), has fuel no start. I moved the distributor CCW about 1/4" or so, then when I turned the key, the engine tried to turn over, then stopped with in 1-2 seconds. Battery is fully charged and on...

My 70 340 was sleeved (#4 hole) by a shop about 24 years ago before I purchased the car. After me driving it over the last 20+ years, the block was rebuilt last year by a local shop that did not like the condition of that sleeve, so he machined it out and installed another sleeve in the same...

A few things that I have done to help with the hot restarts and E10: I also added the return line to mine but with an electric fuel pump too. I added a priming button to fill the bowls before each start. I added a mini starter (Powermaster XS Torque series) to help get the motor turned over...

I dug up a bad picture of how I made mine. Similar to what was mentioned, but I made mine out of a barb fitting, a pipe plug, and a carb jet. I tapped the inside of the barb fitting for the pipe plug, then tapped the pipe plug for the jet. I tested a few different jet sizes to tweak the fuel...

I do have the adapter on order and the Chevy gasket and t-stat coming too just in case.

Ok as I do have one coming . Thanks This is why I thought it might work but I had to file this housing flat to get it to seal last time I ran it.

I received the intake today and started swapping parts over from my X-cellerator. It appears that my existing t-stat and housing should work. I also added a vacuum port to the rear of the intake and located my temp sensor. I’ll extend my heater hose and run it to the drivers side. This should be...

Thank you 65! I will look at That option first

Thank you again Boosted. I’ll find a place to add one

I did not know that! But I have no problem with trying that out. Thanks guys!!

I am curious as to what modifications you have done to make new Trick Flow Track Heat intake work on your street SB’s. A few days ago, I was at the right place at the right time on the internet and was able to purchase one of these intakes (it was the only one in stock) and it should be here...

The engine was put back in the 70 over the weekend after being out for a rebuild over the last 2.5 years! One of my 20-year old kids under the car helping out. This week started the process of bolting everything back together underneath.

The one that I use is the Holley Idle Solenoid #46-74, and the bracket #20-9. Here are a couple of reference pictures. When it is extended, then you can adjust the head head tip to achieve your higher idle rpms. When it is retracted, then you rely on your carb idle screw for the idle rpms.

“What exactly is the benefit of setting it in gear? I always set the in D idle rpm, the timing, and the A/F ratio with the tranny in D and with the brake applied. I have found that tuning an auto in D will require a richer A/F ratio, which in return gets me a smoother vacuum reading, and a...

""Put it in gear, set the idle and set the mixture screws. Then go put it in park and see what happens."" Me too. I usually find an empty parking lot and pull into an empty spot, then check my vacuum and rpm in D. Then I put it in P and get out and make a quick adjustment, then I usually pull...

I lifted the engine off the stand today and test fit the converter in the new crank. The converter slid up against the flex plate fine, so I pulled it back off and put some clay down inside the crank. Then bolted on the converter this time and pulled it back off to see what the clay looked like...

""Will the converter pads go up against the flex plate without bottoming in the crank?"" I will check that tonight and thanks for mentioning it!!

For an additional .065” spacing, I could use this spacer that I bought off of A&A for this exact purpose.

I rotated the converter back and fourth and I did hear the clicking. I tried to put my hand behind the converter but could not reach it. I got my mirror back there and could not see around the converter. I pulled the converter out slightly and rocked it back and fourth and still heard the...

I will get my trusty mirror and flashlight in there to see if I can see how far the converter is engaged. Should the converter touch the housing when it is all the way in, or does something else bottom out before the converter housing? Thanks!

Good idea! I will try that first. Can the drive "tangs" be seen with the converter off, and the trans still in the car? I just read about looking for the tangs and then orienting the converter before sliding it onto the input shaft. Thanks!