727 Converter In All the Way?

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YO7_A66

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I installed the converter back into my 727 last night (been out for about 2.5 years). I rotated it, pushed it in, pulled it back out, rotated it, pushed it back in and this is where it stopped. Does this look like the converter is in all the way?

Thanks

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Looks like it’s in to me. I always second guess myself when putting my Converter in so I know the feeling lol.
How many times did you hear/feel it go deeper onto the input shaft?
 
71Demon528 said:
Looks like it’s in to me. I always second guess myself when putting my Converter in so I know the feeling lol.
How many times did you hear/feel it go deeper onto the input shaft?
Click to expand...
I felt it move twice, so with the trans being horizontal, it did not make the noise that I have read about. It just slid on further each time.

It's been a while since I have done this, and I want to make sure it's right before I put the engine back in this weekend.
Thanks!!
 
You’ll know real quick when you get it in the car if it’s not in all the way but it looks to me that it is. Good luck!
 
I did mine recently but didn't measure but looks about the same depth mine was at.
 
Might need one more click, should be 1 1/4 from ring gear to front of case.

If you rock the converter back and forth can you hear the pump engagement, should be slight clicking/tapping?
 
tjpatte said:
Might need one more click, should be 1 1/4 from ring gear to front of case.

If you rock the converter back and forth can you hear the pump engagement, should be slight clicking/tapping?
Click to expand...
I did not try the rocking back and fourth. I will try that to see if I can hear it and try to see if it will move any further in.
Thanks
 
YO7_A66 said:
I felt it move twice, so with the trans being horizontal, it did not make the noise that I have read about. It just slid on further each time.

It's been a while since I have done this, and I want to make sure it's right before I put the engine back in this weekend.
Thanks!!
Click to expand...

You can be sure if you measure from the bell mounting surface of the block to the flex plate bolt surface and have just a little less than your picture measurement.

It looks in to me too, but when you put the trans in and make sure you have a small gap between the flex plate and converter as it goes in you are good.

Loctite those converter bolts.
 
I agree with trailbeast. Put a straight edge across your block and see how much the flex plate sticks out. Your measurement from Trans to converter should be slightly more.
 
Kendog 170 said:
I agree with trailbeast. Put a straight edge across your block and see how much the flex plate sticks out. Your measurement from Trans to converter should be slightly more.
Click to expand...
Good idea! I will try that first.

Can the drive "tangs" be seen with the converter off, and the trans still in the car? I just read about looking for the tangs and then orienting the converter before sliding it onto the input shaft.

Thanks!
 
You normally get three "clunks" when it's engaged completely. If you can get your fingers behind it between the back of the converter and the transmission, it's probably not in all the way.
 
RustyRatRod said:
You normally get three "clunks" when it's engaged completely. If you can get your fingers behind it between the back of the converter and the transmission, it's probably not in all the way.
Click to expand...
I will get my trusty mirror and flashlight in there to see if I can see how far the converter is engaged.

Should the converter touch the housing when it is all the way in, or does something else bottom out before the converter housing?

Thanks!
 
tjpatte said:
Might need one more click, should be 1 1/4 from ring gear to front of case.

If you rock the converter back and forth can you hear the pump engagement, should be slight clicking/tapping?
Click to expand...
I rotated the converter back and fourth and I did hear the clicking.
I tried to put my hand behind the converter but could not reach it. I got my mirror back there and could not see around the converter.
I pulled the converter out slightly and rocked it back and fourth and still heard the clicking.
I then took a measurement from the tranny housing to the lug and it was .50”.
I then took three measurements on the outside of the flex plate to the engine mount surface and saw .39-.37”. It looks like my converter hub to flex plate clearance is .11”-.13”.
Thank you guys!

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YO7_A66 said:
I rotated the converter back and fourth and I did hear the clicking.
I tried to put my hand behind the converter but could not reach it. I got my mirror back there and could not see around the converter.
I pulled the converter out slightly and rocked it back and fourth and still heard the clicking.
I then took a measurement from the tranny housing to the lug and it was .50”.
I then took three measurements on the outside of the flex plate to the engine mount surface and saw .39-.37”. It looks like my converter hub to flex plate clearance is .11”-.13”.
Thank you guys!

View attachment 1716268014

View attachment 1716268015
Click to expand...
For an additional .065” spacing, I could use this spacer that I bought off of A&A for this exact purpose.

IMG_4029.jpeg
 
YO7_A66 said:
I will get my trusty mirror and flashlight in there to see if I can see how far the converter is engaged.

Should the converter touch the housing when it is all the way in, or does something else bottom out before the converter housing?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
No, it shouldn't touch the bellhousing.
 
Cool, definitely need the spacer to get the proper pull-up to the flex plate so the converter is bottomed against the pump.

Will the converter pads go up against the flex plate without bottoming in the crank? Lost two thrust bearings to that myself, want some clearance from the end of the converter snout to the bottom of the crank, probably about .06 minimal .
 
tjpatte said:
Cool, definitely need the spacer to get the proper pull-up to the flex plate so the converter is bottomed against the pump.

Will the converter pads go up against the flex plate without bottoming in the crank? Lost two thrust bearings to that myself, want some clearance from the end of the converter snout to the bottom of the crank, probably about .06 minimal .
Click to expand...
""Will the converter pads go up against the flex plate without bottoming in the crank?""

I will check that tonight and thanks for mentioning it!!
 
Fast forward to after the car is done and run. Recheck all the bolts, especially the converter bolts.
 
tjpatte said:
Cool, definitely need the spacer to get the proper pull-up to the flex plate so the converter is bottomed against the pump.

Will the converter pads go up against the flex plate without bottoming in the crank? Lost two thrust bearings to that myself, want some clearance from the end of the converter snout to the bottom of the crank, probably about .06 minimal .
Click to expand...
I lifted the engine off the stand today and test fit the converter in the new crank. The converter slid up against the flex plate fine, so I pulled it back off and put some clay down inside the crank. Then bolted on the converter this time and pulled it back off to see what the clay looked like. The clay measured .028”-.034” for the crank to snout clearance.
I ordered some shim washers (.039” and .059”) and I will plan on installing one of these sizes when the engine goes in.
Thanks everyone.

IMG_4050.jpeg
 
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