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Running the oregon .482" cam on a 110LSA. Very much a torque and street driving cam. Idle is relatively smooth, but definitely a little rougher than stock. A bit of a dog way down low with 2.76s, but not in a way that anything else isn't. Would recommend, though if I had a little more...

Pertronix is the only one that is mostly hidden, though a factory electronic with an hei unit stashed underneath is close.

Thanks for the replies. The ax-15 swap won’t happen for a while, I was sort of kidding. Leaning towards 3.55s because at this point I wouldn’t mind an around town ripper. I’m so tired of the 2.76s out back and my exhaust has very little drone above 2500 rpm. My only concern at this point is...

They’ll be great to have when in a few days I find out my trans is cooked and I start planning the ax-15 swap

'69 dart mild 360 magnum: 9:1, cam is 214/221, airgap and 650 eddy 26" rear tire mix of city and highway driving I have two rear ends to choose between, both 8.25: 3.21SG and 3.55SG. On fence about what to pick. Opinions?

To get full throttle the stud has to be in the correct hole on the throttle arm of the carb (on holley and edelbrock it must be drilled out, or you can use a special mopar bracket) The rest is all the same as a factory setup with the tabs of the throttle bracket bent 90 degrees to line up with...

I don't have power steering but I am running a stock LA alternator bracket with a spacer and some stacked washers and haven't had any issues. The main thing is just getting the pulleys to line up well enough. I tried many combinations of pulleys before finding something that worked. I can take a...

Around 500 is the max. Stock springs are really soft. Like soft enough to be able to compress with your hand. The hughes kit (which I have on my motor) gets you more clearance and stiffer springs that are well suited to a mild to moderate cam.

You also have to remove the stud for the starter to be able to slide the dust shield down.

The bottom is supposed to have another little cover. Though it is often missing.

I had to cut parts off the top to make mine clear my magnum flexplate. Watch out as clearances can be tight

Can’t hurt. Though I wouldn’t worry about it too much depending on how much you drive and in what conditions.

Holley double pumper. Look up the number on the choke horn for more details.

You just have to mess with it until it wiggles in at the right angle. Just be patient. (when you do the other side there's no way you can recreate it)

Neutral converter, stock weighted flex plate with one filed hole. Do not use anything for LA360. Not convertor nor plate.

Sounds about right, mine were just crumbling when I tore down my 5.9

They don't

Presses into the k frame where the rod goes through. They are shitty, I would advise against them in favor of the two piece.

I used hastings moly rings. Make sure to double check the rings you get are 1.5/1.5/4mm, because I have found the summit system doesn’t recognize the 360 mag rings as different from LA. Used cheap king bearings. No problems. I’ll report back in 100,000 miles.

Today as I sat in inner city traffic and contemplated the absurdity of life, picking a small cam was something to appreciate. I then retroactively slapped myself for wanting a duggada duggada cam. Either way, running enough timing at idle and cruise is essential. With 214* at 50 and 110LSA, my...

I would run manifold vacuum advance. It’ll smooth out the idle and drop the temp.

I’ve run that setup port-missmatch-be-damned and had zero problems. The factory ran that mismatch on the 318 four barrel cars. No need to do anything but bolt it on and have fun. The improvement over a 2bbl intake is major.

For a carbureted light duty engine I wouldn’t worry. They seem to have problems most on lean running engines that are heavily used. When I was sourcing magnum heads, I found that most of those motors have trashed exhaust valve seats. Now they are “hardened,” but they (like those from the 70s)...

Why not a stock cam? Seems like a solid choice if road tripping is the goal. And they’re everywhere

I have noticed though that on my air gap the temp directly below the carb remains significantly cooler than the rest of the engine due to the cooling effect of the fuel vaporization. A non-air gap will completely cancel this out.

Runs smooth as high as I have the courage to go. That orange box is of unknown origins but appears to be good after all.

Update: The coil was leaking oil, causing it to overheat after a while. Replaced and have had no further issues. Also playing around with ported vs. manifold vac advance and have gone with manifold for the long run. Gets me a smoother idle and around 10 degrees cooler sitting in traffic.

maybe the pushrod length is wrong?

Anything will fry some bfgs when you stomp on it :lol: