Search results for query: t slot

...You should not need a blue cam on the secondaries for the street. Orange cam for the secondaries should work. If you are going to restrict the T slot only the primary needs to be done. Make sure both T slots are even and not over exposed on both the pri and sec. Don't get concerned with...

[1] The dripping fuel is coming from the acc pump shooter. When you actuated the t/lever, you also squirted fuel down the bore.....which leaked out through the worn shaft/hole in the base. [2] If the fuel leak was due to flooding or damaged caps on the body, it would leak all the time, not just...

You need T slot restrictors and probably need to look at the power valve channel restrictors. The wires you reference are for idle. If the idle mixture screws are working they throttle isn’t open too far. It may not be optimal but they aren’t open too far. You need to get a vacuum gauge on it...

That is correct. And this is not. The secondary t-slots are located further up the bore than the primary t-slots. The main purpose of the secondary idle system is to help when the secondaries are just a little open. They're not supposed to be contributing fuel when driving around town. It...

Yup its both. That's another erason why TSR need is determined later in the tuning process. Of course I had to learn this the hard way myself. The transfer slot is both a variable air bleed and fuel restriction. I'll just snip quotes from Tuner here. the full original is archived here...

It doesn’t. I was saying opening the primaries and secondaries 1:1 will keep it on the transfer slots longer. I’ll see if I can find a picture of where the T slot restricters go. I use 10-32 brass set screws for those. You can get away with 8-32 but you may not be able to get the hole big enough.

Been busy tapping T-slot restrictors, moving IFR position, drilling emulsion stack and drilling lots of brass. Big shout out to @yellow rose for his knowledge and coaching. It’s all coming together nicely. Learning so much about the Holley design. Who’d have thunk that a month or so ago I...

Here ya go Ramie. Search Results for Query: t slot | For A Bodies Only Mopar Forum

Here's the clue; That's helpful as mud in your eye and means exactly nothing. But that's Ok cuz timing ain't the problem....... unless you set the timing to "spot on", with the V-can hooked to full-time vacuum, which for a 318 is TDC to 5* advance. Then when the vacuum falls away the Vcan will...

I suspect that this valve would fix my tip-in lean spot. It's just as the throttle starts to open. No amount of messing with pump linkage, squirters, t-slot restrictors, IFR etc. could completely get rid of it. I think my "whatever Autozone PVC valve fits the cover" is causing the problem since...

Took carb off to check T slot. Any thoughts on Cool carb spacer, 4 hole OK or open up to match plenum openings?

Seems odd that it 'fired right back up' if the f/filter was empty..... I have seen that when the FF is mounted horizontally, it can get an air lock in the upper half...but it is still passing fuel to the carb. This is a back to basics job. Remove the carb. Check the transfer slot position [ how...

There is/are a few ways to get to the same place. I chose this way cuz its fast, easy, and right on. The engine dictates it's own idle timing, based on the carb being used and where it's transfer slots begin. The goal is for the engine to not have a tip-in hesitation, that is all. Using the...

I know this may not help you at all. but here goes anyway. My first combo was an 11/1 367 with alloy heads, and the 292/292/108 cam. I run a manual trans and 3.55s in a 3650 car with me in it. With a modest T-port exposure, and a small amount of Idle-Bypass Air that engine liked mid to high...

My dad was NOT into cars other then to drive his company car around. He did buy my mom a 1959 T-Bird. At 15, he took me to a SOHIO gas station figuring out that that is where my life would go & not into the business world. As kids my brothers & I would play with the little electric slot cars, I...

Indirect. That cam is bigger, not shorter [ in duration ] than a factory cam. You need to compare the 050 numbers, not adv duration. Plus, it has a tight-ish 109 LSA. That is good. But in combination, it has considerable overlap. This means careful tuning. The first thing you need to do is get...

Agree. I'm using 8/32 and the .081 is max for me when center drilled. I would need to go with the 10/32 to go bigger. I'll add that the TS diameter change is very sensitive, .076, .078, and .081 are big steps.

Nah, replacing throttle blades is just nuts and bolts, like everything else. And epoxy done right does not fall out.

Classic too much Transfer-slot exposure, usually because of lack of bypass air. Try this; Reset your T-slot exposure to a lil taller than wide. Reset your mixture screws to 2.5t on a Carter type carb. Make sure your fuel-level is correct and stable. Make sure your V-can is plumbed to the...

A pcv is cheap and can be changed over at any time with a varying sized orifices. You can also use a rubber hose with a designated orifice size without a pcv and run it from the air cleaner and its a cheap alternative. Replacing throttle plates is a PIA and costs money too so does epoxy. What...

I'll throw a lot of info here so I'll try to break it up: A. @yellow rose was banned from FABO, apparently permanently. While I'll try to answer you, be aware that I'm not even looking in much, never mind signing in. Too much politics and BS. However when I do check in, Racers forum is one of...

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Okeh, but the centre of the slot isn't necessarily where it needs to be. It needs to be wherever it gives you an appropriate range of timing adjustment with the distributor installed. If you're going to try one tooth (or more) clockwise or anticlockwise, take care; it's easy to get crossed up...

...on carb size and what your doing, the IFR can be from about .026-.034 and the IAB should be in the .068-.072 range to start. I check the T slots and see how wide and long they are, but I haven’t found any yet that I wouldn’t use a T slot restricter on. I start at about .078 and tune from there.

Thank you!! Tips are going in top draw! Yeah, for the price point of some of these aftermarket carbs, it's kinda silly to stay old school. Unless rules forbid it. The above carb is your point... probably not going to sell.. Now, if I had your tuning wit, I'd be in some tall cotton! Lol

Again the stumble not off the line more so from a cruise to open throttle?

What carb do you have? If the bleeds are changeable from the factory those work nice. If your carb had press in bleeds from the factory you’re better off getting some 6-32, 8-32 and 10-32 brass set screws from McMaster-Carr and using them. For what you are doing you will need an .011-.060 pin...

What is that??..

A guy I know bought a Mopar in Las Vegas and drove it the 4 hours back home with this carburetor. He said the idle was rough. @j par How do I set the T slot on this?:lol: I have already swapped everything over to a new body, so now it's a spare Edelbrock 750 electric choke.

To tune the Idle; Set the T-slot exposure underneath the throttle plates to between square and slightly taller than wide, them leave it alone. set the idle-mixture screws to in the middle of their adjustment range Make sure the Power-valve system is not flowing Make sure the PCV system is...