Search results for query: alignment

...stated that you had trouble with finding 0.030" bearing as it is. I think that your going through a whole lot of un needed hassle. I'm sure that you had your machine shop check out the main bore alignment. Myself as soon as I saw that the crankshaft was cut down that far I would have trashed it.

What are the alignment specs? Assuming the alignment is fine, I would take a looks at the LCA’s and see if they’re perpendicular to the frame. If they appear to be angled back, even slightly, you may need to shave down the poly strut rod bushings.

Is the car at its final ride height and has an alignment been done? More than a few people have found that the poly strut rod bushings are too thick, which can push the LCA back. But that would typically show up with the alignment as difficulty in getting positive caster.

I fixed an old CJ like that, frt spring hangers weren't welded even side to side, took Me 5 tries to even get it all the way on the alignment machine w/o the back wheels running half of the rack. By the rear shackle angle, I knew I had to move the Dr. side back, almost 3/4" before it was right...

Thanks, yes, It's a 3 spoke steering wheel and I never realized it was off center since it tracked fine. I was puzzled that the alignment shop told me it needed centering after the alignment was done. :wtf: I didn't realize the steering wheel has a splined notch until I had the steering wheel...

6-21-24 so i messed around with the upper control arms today to get the wheels atleast somewhat in the right directions,, goes for alignment on thursday but i wanted to drive it.... idle is a bit high, easy fix, shifts too early, easy fix, alignment way off.. thats the bad... the good is...

...with some throttle control. Overall, I'm happy with the setup. I didn't feel like I had a lack of power at all. I also adjusted my alignment and I think I finally have it dialed into what the car wants. On top of the alignment, I made a new upper bump stop bracket because the factory one is...

Seen many times, usually on cheap shocks. Alignment issue with the top/bottom parts. Bend it back if it bothers you.

Glad that's done Steph and I bet it made a big improvement.

...the Dart today. All of the bushings in the front end suspension was done. Changed out the brakes, rotors and calipers. And completed the alignment. I took her for a drive and the difference in the handling was impressive. I didn’t get a chance to install the seat bar yet. I will get to that...

I heard a story of a big heavy person needing to have their car aligned with them sitting in it, because the weight of the driver was enough to throw the alignment of the little car out of wack.

If all you are after is toe, jack up one wheel at a time, using a block to steady, spin wheel to make a chalk line. Set each wheel on a few plastic bags so they slip easy and measure the toe. Typically 1/8” toe in will get you in the ballpark.

I have reproductions - Aluminum or Stainless. 67-68 or 69 up. 67-68 have alignment tabs on the bottom. They will come raw metal and will need polishing. The stainless can be sanded to a nice finish, or polished to a chrome finish. Same with the aluminum. Let me know if you are interested...

More pictures so you can see the belt alignment...

Alignment shops that will even sniff at school classic car

Slip plates like these?

...Ive been through it:) Had the whole front end off the car (K frame and bars) plus re installed a rebuilt steering box...youd be surprised how much you can do at home really...you can get it driveable to an alignment shop anyway ...and Id bet some would say you can get it perfect without a shop.

Doing that now. I just thought about that too! They looked clean. For the alignment the shaft small holes face down towards the motor right?

I went to go get an alignment an they told me that I need to replace the upper control arms because of not it will keep getting out of alignment they said everything else was, an if I replace upper control arms with in 90 days they would give me a free alignment, an the idler arm has play in it...

I used those years ago, both sides. Rebuilt stock suspension for a number of years, recently went with QA1 uca/lca. Both versions, no issues with alignment, steering, tread wear, etc. Car tracks straight and true.

But Rusty, boob tube said we can adjust all of the settings with a tape measure and a short level in my driveway. So it MUST be true. LMAO!

A good alignment needs to come after you inspect the front end parts for wear. After the alignment, then check to see how it handles.

Yes they do and they are rather large holes. The holes are larger than the bolts so you can move the bumper around for alignment.

...mods to the mounting. Make sure you have the pulleys perfectly aligned with the serp belt, or you will have belt "chirp" issues. V-bets alignment is not as critical. All of my conversions are from serp to single or double V-belt...

Thanks Mike, I'll get in touch with him. Thanks, but no luck there. The search continues! Tom

Thanks guys, lots of great info. My goal is just to learn as much as possible and do what I can to get things close. I will probably pick up a caster/camber gauge and give it a try. Shops in my town want $300 for an alignment and dont know anything about classic cars.

...215. I guess that’s still too hot. It’s pretty warm here today. 27 degrees. Also, I put fuel in the car when I ran to town….and now my fuel gauge suddenly doesn’t work. Lmffffffao. Thats it for today. Do you guys think 215 degrees is too warm to be driving it in for its alignment? Thanks

Ya. I’m trying hard to find one, but they are as rare as hens teeth around here. Not even any aftermarket 18” fans. Took me a week and a half to get the front end alignment appointment. That’s the reason for trying to sort something out asap

...with the rear all the way in. Then the front all the way out. See where you’re at. The. If not to your liking move the front in some then the rear out some till it looks pretty straight up and down. Then set the toe. Th ohs will get u into the ball park. Then head to a decent alignment...

Strut rod tuning is needed at times to dial in the caster sweep. I have done hundreds of alignments with a tape measure and a caster/camber gauge (Longacre). We used to take them to the alignment rack and have them double checked to a while. The numbers were always good so we started skipping...