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It's all a balancing act of everything. Dumbing down the torque and trying to hold on to the power as high as possible. Getting it to set the tires without hitting them too hard, converter, pinion angle, instant center, all are big. I'm in the stone ages with ignition and timing curves, I...

Do you know what gear set it has?

Fully rollerized? Factory drums?

You already have the head off, at the very least replace that bank..

They already pulled one head, do at least one bank of lifters. I suggest putting a non afm cam and lifters in and tuning the system to delete it. I just did it on my 6.2. Buy once, cry once.

Super common. The 6.2 has lifters that collapse to deactivate the cylinders. Sometimes they stick collapsed and then the pushrods fall out and get beat up. The best advice is get a cam and lifters and tune to delete the whole system. It's nothing but problems from here on out.

Hopefully someone will help me out with that information.

When you are picking a car to try to make a statement, it all matters. Lol

Thanks to Rat Rod Al, 9" drum spindle is 5lbs 14oz

That's a rabbit hole you can spend a ton of time in. 71 has its advantages but also disadvantages. Good carb and intake, but bad exhaust manifolds. Grille has to be sharkstooth which is heavy, dash has to be Rallye which is heavy..

Any chance you could get the weight of a bare spindle for me?

Is there enough meat to drill out the holes in the lower ball joint to 5/8?

Scale handy?

Nice! Any idea what the spindle weighs? I'm thinking of going to tbm brakes for weight, but it doesn't make sense to do if the spindle switch will offset the weight difference of the brakes.

Thanks. I am.

Anybody know the difference in weight between a 9" drum spindle and a 10" drum spindle? Thinking of switching my front brake setup, but it requires a 10" drum spindle.

That's what you meant by treating the tires? Yes, for sure the traction compound and the rubber on the track help out traction............. You are the winner of the day!

Just curious what you consider a good ignition and what's a bad ignition setup?

Interesting, which ones work? I have tried everything under the sun and stopped doing it about 5 years ago because nothing made a difference.

What compounds?

What was the previous best? Nice run!

We started with Dad's AAR. Got to 11.5's with almost zero weight reduction and had no interest in putting a bar in it so built the duster. At one point we did an a-b test at the track and threw the six pack on the duster and it picked up 3mph over the thermoquad.

We built a 71 because of the intake and carb for sure. Whether it is the ultimate setup, I don't know. Quickest stock eliminator to my knowledge is a 70, and they don't even have to worry about the exhaust manifolds.

There are things you can do to make the motor not care as much about exhaust restrictions, but it's all compromises. What should be done is take the 71 p/s manifold off and put a 70 on...

The entire passenger side of the motor breathes through a hole a touch over 1 7/8". To say they don't flow well is an understatement.

The thinking game is what keeps me interested in the class. I'm constantly trying to improve the car or engine in some way. The ideas are getting harder to come by, and I am not sure how much more I can get out of the combo without stretching or disregarding the rules and intent of the class...

They do, but you can only make things so thin. The 71 passenger side manifold is pretty terrible.

The duster was apart after MIR, it bent a fan blade at the top end of the track and took out the radiator. Had to get a new radiator and fan which ended up being almost 7lbs heavier. Was pretty happy with it's performance but will be taking it apart over the winter to try a couple other...

With the rules of now, I don't think anything will get near the corvettes in the class. We have been focusing on trying to make the duster as efficient as possible.