Search results for query: fuel return line

That's a mistake, IMO. Even a 1/4 return with a MANUAL pump is a bad idea without "some" sort of orifice restriction. I just got done converting my friend's Chevy truck to a return system, using the vapor return line as a solid fuel return. I used a simple return filter with an orifice in the...

Yeah, I suppose This would be the Fastest Way to get er done. It's Easy enough to find a 3/8" out 1/4" in pickup and the Sock fell off my crappy pickup in the tank anyway. Thanks Triple R! and I think I'll take the advise of 67Dart273 and use my existing 5/16" line for the Return and Run a...

been able to take the duster on some short trips around town, and ive noticed something annoying...after a while the fuel pressure drops starting at the back there is a new (so clean socked) 3/8 fuel sending unit running through a 3/8 fuel line to a carter M6270 mechanical pump then into a...

Agree. AND the rear window clips!!!! Still!!!! I put a return line to the tank in with an electric fuel pump. BUT it takes a filter with a bypass outlet that faces the tank. Most filters the bypass faces the carb.

Didn't mean to log in but had to stop the incoming e-mail alerts from an chatty conversation. Limited connectivity here, and just running on battery power. In my experience vac leak is pretty rare. Agree- if the spark port is showing the same vacuum as manifold, then the throttles are too...

I made the fuel lines for the 68 Barracuda from annealed stainless from Summitt. I have MPFI so it has a 3/8 delivery and return lines. I also drilled an extra hole at the torsion bar mount so both lines run through that mount. I made a separate section about a foot long where they pass through...

Cold air idea? Click the thread at the bottom. An open air element sucks in hot air. That could be part of the issue. Also insulated fuel line helps. I have a return line in the filter as stock on my ‘79 Magnum. The fuel line is 5/16 though. Maybe if you searched you would find a similar unit in...

You either have to use something like that sender or create a second line fitting into the tank. I don't recommend this for faint of heart, but I used an awl to punch a hole into my tank, flooded the tank with a CO2 bottle off my MIG welder, and then brazed a piece of tube into the...

I could be wrong. But I believe the holley systems do require a return line. The module I posted gets around it by having the regulator built into it. I'll have to look into it a bit.

Well fix one, find another. I re-located that line on the carb and it looks much better now up front. In further look under the car I found another problem at the rear end. :BangHead: With the add of the electric fuel pump and sender, there's a vent line that comes off the sender (1/4"...

You don't need a return line with that EFI fuel tank module. Just hook up the pressure line to your existing fuel line and then connect the fuel line to input at the Sniper. Cap off the return fitting on the Sniper.

You get that fuel filter apart yet?

If you do find yourself needing a return line check with a company called Fine lines or SS tubes, My scamp came with a 5/16 fuel line and I was able to purchase a 3/8 line from them and they come pre bent for your specific car, Installed the 3/8 line along side the 5/16 in the stock locations...

For what you are doing, I wouldn’t do it. I don’t have the guts. I wouldn’t even use a mechanical pump for that. I’d find a 140 gph (or bigger) electric pump and run a bypass regulator for what you are doing. It’s a PITA because you have to run the return line (both the return and the fuel...

Which ever pump you decide to go with, add a return line to your fuel system, so you don't have a deadhead style set-up. It's not difficult to do and doesn't cost a lot, but it helps keep your fuel cooler, helps defeat vapor lock and is easier on the pump. You can feed it using either a return...

I dont believe a mechanical pump will supply enough fuel for your engine @ WOT. I ran an old Holley electric pump on my 512 other than the noise I never had any fuel issues. Never even ran a regulator and/or return line. What type of fuel pressure gauge do you have and where is it located? What...

I was checking over some things on my Duster before taking it to the track for the first time and noticed the fuel pressure gauge bouncing all around. I tried to adjust it either way with no effect to the fuel pressure gauge whatsoever so I replaced it. After replacing it was reading steady...

In a perfect world the return line should be able to return ALL of the fuel back to the tank. Now, there are a lot of factors at play here. Most importantly the size and style of the fuel pump. An electric sized to flow enough fuel for 1000 hp will have drastically different requirements than a...

With that fuel pump module, you do ot need the return line. The fuel pressure regulator is in the tank as part of the unit.

74 Dart Sport originally a /6 car. Now has 360/727/8.75. Car is in really good shape. Small rust in rear quarter and that's it. $13500 clean title in my name Only 800 miles put on car in last 7 years, all parts were new when I bought it Drives and runs really good, nice solid car Engine: 95...

The gauge is non fluid filled gauge in the rail right before the carb. The line to the pump is 3/8 and from the pump forward is all braided -6 an lines.

IMO, you can (and should) make the same power on gasoline as you do alcohol IF your cooling system is capable of keeping the engine cool enough for gasoline. Most guys think 180 degrees at the start of a run is good for gasoline. A gasoline burning engine shouldn’t see the high side of 170 at...

The carb realy doesn't care about the pressure as long as its enough to deliver the volume getting emptied from the bowl. Higher pressure only increases aeration, and too high of pressure can force the needle valve open - especially when idling and coasting. Steady pressure in the 3 to 5 psi...

I know that. He seems to be grasping for straws. Instead of being MR Asshole corrector all the time, why don't you try to help with the situation at hand? Or is that possible for you?

You know, Nick my youngest and I were discussing that very thing with the 3 nipple fuel filter. I already ordered a 3/8 sender and it has a 1/4 return/vent nipple on it so that wouldn't be too hard to do. If we use the current supply line as a return, would you still move it out of the engine...

keep in mind swapping from a /6 to V8 you'll need to consider all the peripherals: exhaust, motor mounts, transmission, fuel line, wiring, cooling just to name a few. then you'll need to track down all kinds of fiddly bits like kick down linkage, throttle cable bracket and return spring mount...

The return orifice in production filters is most likely there to smooth out the pulsating pressure at lower rpms that mech pumps generate. The example in post #64 of the orifice suddenly becoming large[r] because of solder detaching & causing fuel starvation is different to the OPs set up. The...

Excellent points. I’m wondering if there is vacuum (lots) from restriction on the inlet will anything help, after the fact.

That's awesome! What pump did you use?

I'd just use it as is for now (I'm basically lazy), I don't think you'd have any issues using like it is as a return. Any vapors just vent back into the tank. Just make sure your tank is venting properly. Just remember that with most, if not all, repro fuel senders there are issues with the...