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I have the stock cast iron magnum heads but the damage was not too severe

Agreed - I did that as well and to provide some lubrication to the chaser

I didn't know they made a split die. I guess we both learned something today!

Yeah that was the last thing that I wanted to do. Only thing I had to do here was remove the header bolts and push it out of the way to give me some extra clearance to make sure the tool was aligned correctly

So somehow I managed to cross thread a spark plug on my #7 cylinder (I'm blaming the header clearance and not the user :p) and because it was one of the first threads that was damaged, I was unable to get a normal spark plug thread chaser to even bite. I came across this tool: Powerbuilt 14mm...

Just wanted to post an update: I pulled the primary metering block and noticed that somehow I managed to double gasket the power valve. Hoping that’s the cause

Do you have any examples of the kind you use or where to get them?

Thanks - send me one and I'll install it. DM me for my address

I rebuilt my holley 650cfm double pumper carburetor (List 4777-5) and after reinstalling it, the engine had a high idle and unresponsive idle adjustment and idle mixture screws. I pulled the carb to verify the transfer slots on the primaries and secondaries were not over exposed and I noticed...

Interesting. Does that mean that with the newer bands, there is no need for periodic adjustment (assuming no issues arise)?

Regarding the kickdown and low/reverse band adjustments...can you gauge how much life/material is left in a band by the amount of threads left on the adjuster screws (after performing proper adjustments)? What's considered good / what's considered "worn"? I'm not really having any issues, but...

I agree with your statement, I could just not for the life of me figure out why that copper stuff was in there. I finished up the shift kit install, just need to put it back in the trans and cross my fingers I did just replace a tailshaft bushing that looked like it had some wear on it...

I should also add that I haven't really experienced any issues with the transmission/valve body prior to taking it apart

Hey Everyone, I pulled apart the valve body from my 727 to install the TF2 Shift Kit and I came across a couple of concerns while cleaning it. Since I'm not too familiar with VB's I'm hoping some of you can give some advice. I'm also planning on having a trans shop put it through their parts...

Thanks - I ended up pulling the VB and pushing the pin out with my finger. It was pretty loose, it almost shot all of the way out but I stopped it before it went past the lever mechanism. Took this as as a sign it was time to adjust the bands. It really wasn't that bad of a job. Messy, but...

thanks for checking! PM sent!

I have the two countersunk screws - just need the cover as I misplaced mine. thanks!

Looking for a output shaft bearing cover for a 727 transmission in a 72 Dart. This is the small rectangular piece that bolts to the bottom of the extension housing, hiding the output shaft bearing/snap ring. Let me know what you have and how much shipped to 92626 - thanks!

Noted, thanks.

Thanks for the advice. I certainly considered cleaning the area around the pin and sealing with RTV but the previous owner had tried that and it either didn't work or stopped working at some point. @Dubob - Good idea on reinstalling the pan temporarily after loosening the rear servo band, I...

Hey guys, Have a 727 with a leaky low/reverse band pin o-ring and have some questions on replacing it in car. I think I have the process understood from searching the site (Remove trans mount/tailshaft. remove pan, remove valve body, loosen low/reverse band, and push pin out far enough to...

It's internally regulated. Here's a link with some information on installation. The poster states that he was able to use his stock brackets but I purchased a conversion set from AR Engineering so I can't comment on that. Denso Alternator conversion Part-Number ?

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For Sale: 120 amp 1V HO Denso style alternator with less than 50 miles on it This is a popular upgrade from the mopar style alternators to a Toyota/Denso style alternator that was originally made for 89-92 Toyota 4Runner (2.4L). More info available from the Ebay Listing I purchased it from...

I suppose it’s because I always seem to get an uneasy feeling when I come to a stoplight and see everything dim slightly, turn signals start blinking slower, etc...that I think the car is going to die but maybe you’re right. I am running 4AWG cable from the alternator B+ stud to my inline fuse...

Update: I received the new pulley and quickly realized I had a problem. The OD of the recessed area (where the flanged nut sits) on the new pulley is a little over 29mm. With the 22mm pulley nut that came with the alternator, all of my 22mm sockets were too large too fit inside the recessed...

It's a V Belt setup, 15mm bore. After quite a bit of searching I was able to find a 2" OD pulley to give me a 2.625 ratio. Based on the report above, I should be in the 65-70 amp range which I think will be ok.

It's a 2 speed fan out of a early 90's Volvo 940 I looked into the pulley sizes & ratios and believe this is definitely the issue Crank Pulley dia= 5.25" Alt pulley dia= 2.63" Ratio: 2:1 I looked again at the test report and they used a ratio of 3:1 (probably correct for a late 80's...

I had some issues with my 60 amp denso alternator with being able to put out enough power when my electric fan was running, especially at idle. The fan was pretty loud and you could hear the rpms drop at stop, similar to the common issue of headlights dimming at idle. Idle @ ~900 RPM (mild cam)...

When I disconnected the cable I did not let it hang down and drip because it never occurred to me that some of the oil would work its way up the cable. I did not install the seal myself. I purchased an assembled unit from Brewer's Performance, but the seal did look correctly installed. It is...