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This one almost has to be staged. I mean, it's a '63 split window, and it's almost complete, as the glass is intact, the bumpers, antenna...heck, even the trim is all there. As the saying goes, "If it seems too good to be true...." Still, one can dream, right? :thumbsup:

Reproduction 1969 340 Alternator / Fan Belt - #2863564 that I purchased from Mancini. $33 shipped in US.

here's what a LD4B looks like. with paint, you'd hardly know it was aftermarket. but they're a great piece and while they do come up from time to time expect to spend real money for one in decent shape. personally, for a 318 build that you're trying to keep incognito i'd buy a performer...

Cheers Steph.

Looking for a dash frame for my car as stated, for a 1970 Dart Swinger Rallye dash, must have thumbwheel radio bracket, must be in good shape, not all hacked up or cracked/broken. All I need is the frame, nothing else, unless you have a perfect black dash pad also :) Im in Saskatoon...

This is the new clutch I just put in. Are you telling me that I need to remove the OC spring to make everything work properly?

NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE FOR 1963-1969 SMALL BLOCK A/B/C BODY (19") SQUARED HEAD $65 shipped in US

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If they are newer than 67 ish might be marked either side of the valve stem Otherwise the back spacing will be a tattletale

Pivot for short fork in overdrive bellhousing

That I’m not exactly sure. Are they marked any where? Hard to measure with out taking the tires off.

The water will usually settle to the bottom of the pan and come out first when you pull the plug. Draining a quart will probably get any that settled, out. Gonna be a mess though, so don't fumble the plug....lol. I thought it sounds pretty dang good. What kind of break in oil did you use? JGR...

I have a pair of NOS Weiand La engine valve covers. These have never been installed. I bought them for my Dart but never installed them. I spot in the paint chipped as seen in the pictures Everybody has the Mopar covers, be different. $225 + shipping.

New engine. 68Dart GT. 3550 race weight. 408, 9.8 to 1 comp. Howard’s solid 254, 260 at .050, about .580, 590. Lift with 1.6 rockers. Home ported speedmaster heads. 3.91s, 4000 stall, 904 with low gear set, headers, 2.5 full exhaust. 26in. M and H cheater slicks. New best is 11.80 at 111. No...

I don’t think there is. I used the long fork with a homemade z bar. It worked and I daily drove it for years but it would have be easier using a short fork. It probably possible to put the short fork and matching blade pivot in that bellhousing

I was a wildland firefighter for the Feds. CalFire advised on Planes Fire and Rescue and they nailed the terminology and fire behavior.

Here is a picture of slant six bell housings with the years. This is from a member here and it may be @cudamark that I saved years ago.

Welcome !!!

Not flat :(

So the air cleaner decal was on the passenger side at 9–10 o’clock on mine. Where the new one is now but un seen in the photo I posted above. It’s your car - put it anywhere you want. lol!

C'mon guys you've wanted the story behind this engine, there it is. Please don't bail on me now The rebuilt engine was also originally a CL buy, that I got conflicted stories about. The most believable one was that they'd bought it from a junk yard and bought the wrong one for their application...

Ya, over by Hutchinson kinda. And I love the Planes movies. Definitely Dusty Crophopper...

I was thinking the OP had a small block but the same would be true with a /6 ball pivot bellhousing

14 x 4.5 wide or 14 x 5.5 wide

Out by Hutchinson

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I was wondering what it would take to check the heads myself. Can one vac and pressure test at home? Also can I just drill the push rod holes bigger on the 308's? Just using stock iron rockers non adj.

Cheers Gentlemen!