Don't get it right, just get it running. 85 318 roller

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JDMopar said:
Get a piece of stiff wire (coat hanger) and check thru the oil holes in the main saddles to the cam bearings to make sure they got the cam bearings lined up. Then, use that same wire to check the oil holes thru the deck, down to the cam bearings to make sure they both line up. The oil holes in the deck are right above the 2nd head bolt hole from the left, when you are looking down at the deck on either side. You can see the passage going thru the lifter gallery, and can feel the oil hole in the bearing when you figure out where it is. If there is no hole in the bearing towards the deck, or the wire won't go thru, they screwed up the cam bearing install.
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I will definitely double check. They were great to deal with. After they tanked it they brushed through all the galleys. I feel like they went above and beyond. It's a father son outfit, been around for quite awhile.
 
Machine shops now the small ones will do the best deal they can there isn't much of this old school work going on any more. I mean general refurbishing not performance stuff. Id bet the machine shop guy was glad to have an old 318 to do up the newer stuff is more finicky, close tolerance etc. For example I've worked on Ford 4.6 V8s id much rather work on the old cast iron head pushrod stuff...
 
You can die grind the pushrod holes of LA heads if that is what you must use

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Pushrod Angle problems

Anybody have any problems with roller lifter and the pushrod angle to Roller Rocker arms? I've done this (roller setup) before in GMs and Fords and not had this problem, anybody got any ideas on this one
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Roller Block: Pushrods Rubbing Against Head

92 LA roller block with earlier 596 casting heads. Using stock replacement Melling rollers. When trying to find the correct pushrod length, I removed the rocker and and pushrods to find that they rub on the bottom to middle portion of the hole. Enough to leave a bit of a lip of metal. I know...
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watch using the purple zep with alum. it can eat it up pretty good depending on what the composition is.

looking good man! keep on trucking!
 
junkyardhero said:
watch using the purple zep with alum. it can eat it up pretty good depending on what the composition is.

looking good man! keep on trucking!
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You know I was worried about that. I'm trying to be careful not to let it soak too long. Mainly just using a tooth brush and pipe cleaners in the ring lands.

1 3 5 7 below all clean. 3 looks a little discolored. Do you think they're ok to re use?

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My two cents is as follows.

1. Why not use the 302 heads that came with the roller block. Much better choice for that stock engine than 360 heads especially with 2.02 valves.

2. Since you have it torn down now, I would just clean everything and replace the timing gear setup, rings, and gaskets. If other stuff checks out like oil pump, bearings, etc I would just put it back together as is since it is just a stock rering.

3. Last thing Id see about getting your little guys involved and let them help do the rebuild. Nothing there they couldnt handle with your supervision and direction.

Have fun!
 
mgoblue9798 said:
My two cents is as follows.

1. Why not use the 302 heads that came with the roller block. Much better choice for that stock engine than 360 heads especially with 2.02 valves.

2. Since you have it torn down now, I would just clean everything and replace the timing gear setup, rings, and gaskets. If other stuff checks out like oil pump, bearings, etc I would just put it back together as is since it is just a stock rering.

3. Last thing Id see about getting your little guys involved and let them help do the rebuild. Nothing there they couldnt handle with your supervision and direction.

Have fun!
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You got it! I'm just doing bearings and rings for pre cautionary measures. The 308 heads, may be in poor shape and too costly to rebuild. The J heads are ready to go.
 
mgoblue9798 said:
1. Why not use the 302 heads that came with the roller block. Much better choice for that stock engine than 360 heads especially with 2.02 valves.
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Performance wise, no. Even more so with a 2.02 that will need to be ported to allow for the valve to actually be a benefit. The area under the valve has t change much at all and flow is impeded.

The 302 heads can be ported out very well for small displacement engines. With his 308’s ready to rock, that becomes the clear choice.

A 302 head is not the answer to anything unless it’s a stock rebuild or it’s heavily ported and heavy porting is what it will take.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Performance wise, no. Even more so with a 2.02 that will need to be ported to allow for the valve to actually be a benefit. The area under the valve has t change much at all and flow is impeded.

The 302 heads can be ported out very well for small displacement engines. With his 308’s ready to rock, that becomes the clear choice.

A 302 head is not the answer to anything unless it’s a stock rebuild or it’s heavily ported and heavy porting is what it will take.
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This is going to be a stock rebuild, I literally want just a cruiser. I'm just going to go with the 308's I have because they're ready. They might actually be 1.88 valves, I'll have to check.

It's no wonder folks go a ith aluminum heads. Just for the machine shop to wash, mag, pressure and vac test it $335 and that is just to tell you need xyz.

Dang!
 
plumkrazee70 said:
This is going to be a stock rebuild, I literally want just a cruiser.
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Yes, I know.
plumkrazee70 said:
I'm just going to go with the 308's I have because they're ready. They might actually be 1.88 valves, I'll have to check.
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Yes I know. They should have 1.88/1/60 stock
plumkrazee70 said:
It's no wonder folks go a ith aluminum heads. Just for the machine shop to wash, mag, pressure and vac test it $335 and that is just to tell you need xyz.

Dang!
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This is why I learned to do as much as I can by myself.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Yes, I know.

Yes I know. They should have 1.88/1/60 stock

This is why I learned to do as much as I can by myself.
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I was wondering what it would take to check the heads myself. Can one vac and pressure test at home?

Also can I just drill the push rod holes bigger on the 308's? Just using stock iron rockers non adj.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
I have two sets of good known heads, J heads and a set of 318 heads. I have a gasket kit. I will probably have the bores measured just to set my mind at ease on the piston and rings.
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plumkrazee70 said:
Also can I just drill the push rod holes bigger on the 308's?
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Well, which heads are they? Js or 308s?
308s were original 360 roller heads, they do not require any pushrod hole clearancing at all. Js, however, were HFT heads and do need the holes clearanced.
The 318 heads you referred to, I assume are the original heads from your 318 roller motor; which would be 302s. Obviously, no mods needed there for them to work, they already have hardened seats, and a smaller combustion chamber than either the Js or the 308s that will keep your compression ratio where it belongs on a stock 318 roller.
 
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Professor Fate said:
Well, which heads are they? Js 0r 308s?
308s were original 360 roller heads, they do not require any pushrod hole clearancing at all. Js, however, were HFT heads and do need the holes clearanced.
The 318 heads you referred to, I assume are the original heads from your 318 roller motor; which would be 302s. Obviously, no mods needed there for them to work, they already have hardened seats, and a smaller combustion chamber than either the Js or the 308s that will keep your compression ratio where it belongs on a stock 318 roller.
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Sorry,

I for sure have a set of J heads that were on a 340 of mine.
I have the original 302 heads.
I also have another set of heads that were on a HFT 318 motor, not sure the casting number though, I'll have to look tomorrow.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
Sorry,

I for sure have a set of J heads that were on a 340 of mine.
I have the original 302 heads.
I also have another set of heads that were on a HFT 318 motor, not sure the casting number though, I'll have to look tomorrow.
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Okay, the 302s obviously are a bolt-on, and have the correct combustion chamber size to keep a minimal compression ratio with your stock 318 pistons, which the factory listed as 9.1:1. In actuality, they're probably in the high 8s.
The Js will need the pushrod holes clearanced, and have a larger combustion chamber that will likely drop your cr into the low 8s if you're lucky, and depending on what head gasket you use. Unless they have been cut... then it's dependent on the cut.
Your other 318 heads will need the pushrod holes clearanced, the combustion chamber is an unknown since they can vary quite a bit depending on year- early ones (don't know the numbers offhand) have a small combustion chamber, but no hardened seats (if that matters to you) and later ones (early/mid 70s?) started getting the larger combustion chamber, but had hardened seats.
 
I usually just drop new valves in the Used 302 heads. New valves help tighten up the guides. They come with the Factory spec roller cam valve springs.

Hardened seats > a quick touch, lap the new valves and good to go.

You can gasket match the 302 heads to your favorite 318 intake manifold.

Thin .028 ths Mr. Gasket head gaskets.

You will have a good runner, that will like the 600 cfm 4 bbl that you are going to put on it.

Just like this:

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☆☆☆☆☆
 
Asking on line will just have other people spending your money. I'd take measurements to figure out if there is enough taper that you need an overbore. Thing is if its too much taper and wear it will burn oil(grey smoke out exhaust) once I determined i can get away with a re-ring yes Id run the stock pistons. To not check the ring gap is a gamble IMO. You can clean everything spotless but if parts are worn you'll have problems. I'm speaking of a general "Overhaul" the thing is most get too into re-machining and blueprinting which gets expensive. Now generally you'll find you have to redo the heads but still sometimes you get lucky guides are tight and all you need is to install seals and lap. More times than not though the heads get redone which is pricey itself lately. For me a general overhaul is clean and check always a new cam and lifters, bearings, seals etc. and timing set and oil pump. I replace those parts without question.
 
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Lots of good pushrod clearance when using your existing 302 heads.

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Also your engine came with the correct (shorter) roller cam engine push rods, to keep your valve train geometry correct.


☆☆☆☆☆
 
plumkrazee70 said:
I was wondering what it would take to check the heads myself. Can one vac and pressure test at home?
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If you have the equipment or if your crafty enough.
plumkrazee70 said:
Also can I just drill the push rod holes bigger on the 308's? Just using stock iron rockers non adj.
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already answered above. And very well at that I add in.
 
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