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I am sure lots of them. I know when I bought mine there were stories of dropping valves etc. or tight guides like the Eddies. I am sure you could get by with just having a shop go through the head just like everything else.

Everything I recall when I bought them was very similar to Edelbrock as they are really just a Chinese copy. Don't buy an assembled head, get castings only and have them assembled by a reputable shop with good hardware and valves.

Does anyone have a contact number for these people? I called BPE racing heads at 714-572-6072 and they deny having any products like that. I have seen on some FB pages they no longer are available as well.

The car is 3,000 by itself the rest is my big ***, but there is a lot I could do to take weight out of the car and me. The car has a 10 point cage and sub frame connectors with Caltracs and slant 6 bars in the front with 90/10 shocks. It seems to work fine creating very similar slips if...

So I guess now my dilemma now is in order to eventually reach my goal of low 10's do I. Option 1: Spend $3-4k for some trickflows with a manifold and Harland sharps to pick up a few tenths on my 360? Option 2: Get an Indy top end set with valvetrain for $6-7k that will give me much more...

How can the speedmasters be garbage? I paid $440 with shipping for mine (bare castings) on black friday 2020, so with good hardware I have $8-900 in the heads. Best 1/8 mile on mine in a 3320lb car was 7.21 at 94mph in the 1/8th, seems like good ET economy to me. Granted the tricklflows are...

I check mine every winter and have never found a loose one, although mine have never been loose and I verified my saddles didn't have a high spot in the middle. Car runs low 7.20's in the 1/8th with 273 adjustable rockers on pump gas.

I bought castings only on black friday 2020, with shipping was under $450 for the set. I had my engine builder put good components in them for another few hundred. I doubt the car would run any better with Edelbrocks for twice the money or more. Its a 360 with stock crank and rods with Icon...

I am not under the impression a given A/F will get me away from adjusting my dial with the weather. I am asking to see if and at what A/F people have seen the changes with weather effect ET less. Thanks for the calculator suggestions, I really appreciate it.

I stand corrected, I should have said there are many reputable folks that believe jetting is beneficial at different altitudes.

Density altitude will change 1,000 to 1,500 feet throughout a day of racing for me just about everyday. So you are saying Warren Johnson said proper jetting at a mile high is the same jetting as sea level? Do you think he was compensating in other ways? I don't think you can find any...

Most serious bracket racers I talk to will rejet at least a few times a year and some much more often. I have and would again trade a tenth or two for more consistent.

That doesn't mean I think it is or should be flat.

What makes you think I think it should be flat? The trajectory example was not intended convey the desire for a flat for A/F curve, but to make the weather changes less extreme making them easier to predict and more forgiving if you predict incorrectly.

Would you not want to have a tune up that made the car the most consistent? Is it possible AFR is a key factor in a consistent set up that changes less with weather making the car easier and more predictable to dial? I am trying to flatten the trajectory similar to predicting vertical hold...

Yah thats my whole point. Trying to figure out if anyone has noticed a base AFR reading that varies the ET least with given weather changes on an average day.

I would agree with it not being possible all the time especially with only getting one or two time trials, but surely those that track have some idea about what it is and how consistent the car is that day.

For those that track it, what is your experience as to what air fuel ratio you have experienced the best consistency when bracket racing.

Updated 11.65 @ 114.72 it aint much but its something.

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The time would be very similar. With a highspeed machining center you can make 20 or more passes with a proper constant chip load that wont wear the tool as quickly, chatter or rub like a large cutter in the same amount of time with more precision and adjustability. In addition to the...

Coming from a tool and die making environment making plastic injection molds and precision manufacturing fixtures for 25 years, machining an arc like this with a single pass with specific sized tool is not the way to it. A single pass with a large cutter will typically result in a poor finish...

Is that a B3 spacer kit? Did you check or correct your saddles for the rocker shaft to make sure they were correct?

He said the shaft needs to up and towards the intake manifold. Mike has already posted here so I doubt this will put the kibosh on anything. The cutting the heads I was referring to was related to some of the speedmaster heads having saddles that are too wide and allow the shaft to move. This...

11.60's @ 115, but I haven't really tuned it to try and go faster. I run a 12.0 and slower sportsman class. With the secondaries on my 750 double pumper disconnected, short shifting at 5k, and a throttle stop out about 2 turns it runs 12.0-12.2 depending on air and launch rpm.

I cannot do that, I have already sent the rockers back to where I bought them and put my old ones back on. From what I have learned through this process the shaft will need to move up and toward the intake to get to ideal geometry. Once I learned I would have to likely pull the heads to make...

Its biased toward the exhaust side, the pictures show it fairly well.

I am aware of adjustments to the spring seat from machining or shims and various lock options. So installed height was not the right term to use to indicate the height of the stem, but its what I was referring to. I sourced many of the parts and directed him on most of the remaining parts...

I think maybe you have misunderstood, I have no doubt Mike can help. As I have said previously I am not willing to take the heads off to mess with this when racing starts in a few weeks and I have an option that works fine already on the motor. Mike said at the very least I would need to open...

I am not sure, I will look to see if its on the old invoice. I believe its all about installed height, but what I know is the stock type adjustable rockers that are on it currently line up great which should indicate the heads are a good copy of factory.