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It's out. Penetrant and a repeated twisting loosened it.

It's stuck in the block tightly. I can't rotate it by hand, and as I noted above, it took a pry bar to turn it. Any ideas on how to get better leverage?

The heater core had a 1980 date on it. So it was replaced and the hose size was not corrected. I'll use a 1/2 to 5/8 adapter and some 1/2" hose to make it fit.

1968 Dodge Dart Slant Six I'm in the process of reassembling my heater after a complete rebuild. I noticed that the engine heater hose fittings are both 5/8" (thermostat cavity and water pump). The heater core fittings, however, don't seem to match. One is 5/8" but the other is 1/2". This...

1968 Dodge Dart Slant Six I'm trying to remove my distributor to facilitate points/condenser replacement. I've removed the hold-down bolt. I have been unable remove the distributor. I had to use a pry bar to rotate it. I tried gentle force with a pry bar to prise it up, without success. I...

And the winner is....Bewy! (It's actually a 3/8-16 bolt.) Easy and effective - Thx.

I'm sure one of these will work for me. Many thanks for the helpful responses.

I didn't see any threads with the borescope, but it was well rusted in the cavity. I'll give it a try. Thanks for the info.

1968 Dodge Dart I have my slant stripped down for restoration work. All of the accessories and the spark plugs have been removed. I can't see any way to use a tool to turn the engine. There are no bolt heads on the crankshaft pulley. I used my borescope to look for a socket drive purchase...

Thanks for the quick response!

1968 Dodge Dart 225 I'm reinstalling my ignition coil. I didn't document the original arrangement when I disassembled this a year ago. Would someone please advise how the small can (condenser?) is connected. I assume its pigtail attaches to one of the coil terminals (+ or - ). My electrical...

I've sourced one locally and will install it. Thanks for your response.

1968 Dart 225 CID My new water pump instructions state that RTV sealant should be used on the fiber gaskets. I don't see how that is possible on the trapped gasket without contaminating the pump with RTV. What is the correct installation procedure?

I have no bellows retainer. I apparently failed to remove it from the old MC prior to discarding it. Has anyone got a spare retainer available?

I'm installing my new master cylinder. Is the retention clip a temporary fixture to be removed before installation?

OK, here it is again. To make this easier, my Dart is a 225 CID with Torqueflite. Manual steering and brakes. The AT linkage is disconnected, so your suggestion is a possibility.

OK, that's two for two! I'll put it in the carb hardware bag. This is a good time for me to admit that I didn't take any photos of my car prior to disassembly. I've done many auto restorations in my time, including frame-off jobs of some relatively exotic cars. I had always taken lots of...

I'll make a note of that possibility. Anyone else with anything more definitive?

1968 Dodge Dart I'm assembling my rear brakes, and this part was in my parts bag. I don't think it is a brake part, and I assume that it got mixed in during the cleaning process (I've disassembled most of the car for restoration). Does anyone know what this is? (The white substance is...

I have re-checked, and the images on my screen are displayed one above the other, not side-to-side. Thanks to everyone for your helpful responses.

No, as you can see from the images, there is no spring. Just to confirm, I just looked at both seals, an neither one has a spring.

By inboard I mean facing toward the engine.

The sealing rubber appears symmetrical. Am I looking for a difference between the sides?

1968 Dodge Dart with 9" Drum Brakes This is the steering spindle seal. Which side faces inboard?

I believe the 10" brake are 2 1/4 wide, which is why the pins don't interchange.

Yes, you are correct, and I bought my kits there. There are kits from six different suppliers listed, and the images associated with each of the six shows the same spring/retainer hardware. None of them contain the correct 9" pins.

Those kit P/N's are all for 10" brakes. I looked again at Rockauto and the later 9" kits do include pins, however those 9" brakes are not the same as my '68. My '68 9" brakes are 2 1/2" wide, the later 9" brakes are narrower. BTW, here is my T-retainer mod.

No, they don't. All of the kits for 9 in. brakes have the T retainers. I also searched extensively for the pins themselves. Lot's of pins for 10 in. brakes, and none for 9 in. I even considered using the 10 in. pins, but that doesn't work because they are shorter than the 9in. pins.

Great minds think alike! I had the same thought late last night. Unfortunately, I think that would take too much material and strength from the T-retainer. Upon further reflection I decided that cutting a tiny notch at the base of the T, and slightly curling the T would allow it to fit...

No, growing the hole by drilling would be better method.