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Thanks for the input y'all. Looks like I am going to roll with what I have for now and spec a cam accordingly. I will definitely look into building a big low deck stroker in the future, but since I already have an assembled short block and heads, I'm going to reevaluate my goals and build...

yeah, well the car is a factory 383 car so I think it's pretty novel to have the original block, trans, and rear end housing in a racecar and make decent times. It's not like I'm trying to go class racing or anything, I'd be tickled if it ran in the high 9's/low 10's with a shot of nitrous, and...

Yeah I was really intrigued when I read in a old Mopar book from the 70's about a build pretty similar to what I am trying to accomplish, but it had no information on head flow data, valvetrain, or any of the voodoo. Back then they ran a .654 DC Mini Express mushroom cam. I initially was going...

yeah that's probably not happening then IMO

I getcha. I already have a blown RB based 452 in my pro street car that makes roughly 900hp. Trying something different. The basis of this build really is the rotating assembly and the block.

Think I can get away with just a set of ARP rod bolts? Don't really want to change the main bolts as the bottom end is already assembled unless it is absolutely necessary.

And I just don't know if it's even worth the money dropping $800 on good Molnar rods at a stock stroke in the first place

I'd almost agree, but I honestly trust the good quality steel 50 year old forged rods more than new chinesium junk h beams..

I would be fine with 6500-7k but I m going off of what I was told by cam companies. I don't really know cam voodoo all that well

This is the type of input I want to hear. I think some of the cam companies are just trying to "sell me a cam" and don't necessarily care if it does the job or not. Schneider gave me those cam specs when I called to spec a custom grind. Comp was trying to sell me a similar spec off the...

I am targeting 600hp.

For the engine gurus: My current project to build a maximum performance B block 383 with the goal of using a stock block. Money isn't really an object but I want to keep it to mostly not one off parts. Engine Specs: 0 deck 30 over 383 block forged rods and crank TRW L2293 Dome Pistons Super...

For sale is a set of M/T big block valve covers. They are in great shape and clean up nice but are still in what i'd call "driver condition". With a new coat of wrinkle black paint they would look new These are reproduced for chevy motors nowadays but are not available for mopars. These are...

For sale is a like new condition MSD 6al2 Programmable ignition box including the MSD harness. This is a fully computer programmable ignition box that includes 2 step and a rev limiter I bought this for a project and ended up going with an entirely different ignition setup. These retail for...

For sale is a NOS Racer Brown STX-22 cam still in the original bag. Its a 3 bolt with 590/590 lift and 310 duration. This was the same cam that the Silver Bullet ran back in the day; A real Chrysler engineered race cam! $300 plus shipping or trade for a big block B/RB 3 bolt cam Or pickup in...

It is a Hemi cam. Just verified. Bad for my build, but on the upside I guess I have a NOS Racer Brown Hemi cam..

I don’t know if I’d be able to judge the lobe difference right as I’m comparing a stock cam to a 300+ duration race cam..

I bought a NOS Racer Brown STX-22 cam that was advertised as for a big block. I test fitted it in my block and it seems right but just a tad different than other cams I have. Could it be a 426 Hemi cam? Would a Hemi cam even fit into a B/RB engine? It seems like everything lines up good...

Hey yall, I’m trying to figure out what I should gap the spark plugs on my 440 (ported iron heads, forged pistons, 8-71 BDS blower running 15psi of boost) I haven’t raced it yet and have only cruised it around at a few fairgrounds/cruise week events and I previously had the plugs set at .035...

I should just get a whole new motor, huh? Lol every part on this motor is 40+ year old speed parts. I know the new stuff is better but It’s a period build and I’m following a build from a old book.

:lol:

Thanks everyone. I ordered the 1/16 rings and they should be correct.

How should I go about removing it? Hammer and chisel?

New crankshaft Old crankshaft Gear drive gear

Think these 1/16 rings should work maybe?

These are the rings I have.

I just haven’t cleaned them perfect yet. There’s no pitting

No they are good. All of the pistons have the same problem Think it’s just rings

Old pistons from the 70s can’t really look them up…