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Why I ask about the size & ratio of the pulleys is that this is really what solved the issue. That and the pump. The big radiator and other upgrades were already there or added on at the time. Wouldn’t hurt to measure them up and work out the ratio you have.

Fuel is still burning as it travels through the exhaust port, in turn roasting the water jacket. This is usually when you see headers start to glow red as well - retarded timing.

If you do have any type of under drive pulleys on there, they need to go. What is the size ratio between your crank and water pump pulleys? You want around 1.2:1, maybe a little more with forced induction. I had my pulleys made, 7.00’’ crank & 5.875’’ water pump. Had a similar issue to yours...

Haha, wow i didn’t know they were made there now. I haven’t bought one for a while, I remember they were UK made. The IWIS are German made IIRC??

A vouch for Rollmaster timing sets. Very good quality, I only get the 9 key way version. For chains IWIS or Rolon.

No more crazy angle on the rocker stud either. - At full open and closed.

Good flat torque curve. She’ll pull really nicely. Thumbs up!

Much better. You can see how much straighter the p’rod is at full lift.

I understand that the primary jets are push in, but I seem to remember someone converting the secondary jets to use standard Holley jets. Not sure who or where it was. I think some brass tube was used, cut to size, then threaded. Are AFB primary jets a similar size to the original push in TQ...

It took some time, but it was worth it I reckon. All the plugs look almost identical after doing the port match. I would like to give a nice M1 a try though, just because! :)

Weiand Stealth should work real well as a street inlet manifold. If you use it, do a deep port match on it. I did this on an Eddy Performer RPM, then equalised the port flow, the best I could. Worked out well. I wish the dual plane’s came with a baffle plate though.

A welcome arrival in the mail today :) Itching to get this thing back together now

A good setup on triples is to run a fuel rail / log. Make the rail a large size (1’’ or more). Inlet on the front, return line on the rear with an orifice to drop the pressure and return to the tank. Three tubes off the rail to supply the carbs.

One important, fundamental thing not to forget with SU’s - 3psi fuel pressure maximum.

These two books are a great help.

I checked the specs for Jag 3.8. It’s not really apples to apples with your setup. They’re twin 1.75’’ or triple 2’’. - HD6 & HD8. There’s also two different jet sizes for the HIF6, 0.100’’ & 0.125’’. It’s important to know all this info before selecting a needle. Also, your carbs will have the...

Do you know what springs and needles you have in the carbs ATM? Springs should have a dash of coloured paint on them.

I’ll let you know, I’ll dig out the specs. Just bear in mind, a lot of the Jag’s were twin carb not triple. Also a lot were 2’’ SU’s not 1.75’’.

@65 Dartman, Nice set up for a /6 :thumbsup: I’ve worked with a few SU’s, I have info on calibrations for different engines and needle profile charts. Let me know if you need some info.

This is kind of why a lot of people just end up locking the timing with H.P engines. Then have some kind of starting retard. It’s not the ‘correct’ way to do it, but you can get 3/4 the way there without the endless hours of trying to mechanically curve a distributor. Plus not having to go...

@Newbomb Turk So basically the answer is we get fully programmable ignition systems? There’s only so much you can do with stretching springs, advance weights & vacuum canisters.

Hey mate, have a look at the Cometic Australia page here, CHRYSLER 318/340/360 V8 They have multi layer steel head gaskets with the smaller bore for the 273. Various thicknesses as well, down to 0.027’’. Might be worth giving them a call.

You may need to go to a step colder plug, once you have optimum idle timing & carb idle setting. Your compression is fairly high, if the plug is too hot the ground strap can glow red hot. Acts like a glow plug in a Diesel engine.

Rear Mount turbo’s are a great idea IMO.

Where I have the lifters set, it should reduce the duration by about 7-8 degrees. - 0.012’’ off the bottom of the lifter.

I know Rusty, I know…

Haha! With ‘Rhoads vmax variable duration, adjustable hydraulic lifters’

I got the intake manifold back from being ceramic coated, very nice. Pushrods on the other hand, no one’s getting back to me…:rolleyes: Tried a comp test, no intake on and stone cold. Only did three pumps, don’t want to burn the starter bushes. ( done that in the past ) - 155-160psi. Looking good.

Awesome! Love the early Valiant’s. Good to see ya here.:) I’m pretty new here as well.

I don’t know about anyone else, but you do hear that ‘330cfm’ number get thrown around a lot recently. On all brands.