You should have about 48 degrees of timing in it at cruise. That alone will bring the temp down considerably.Car will cruise at -5.0psi. Ignition timing at 2500-2800rpm (highway cruising) is about 26 degree if I remember correctly
Yeah it’s about 25 degrees at cruise (2400-2800rpm) which is about 55-65mph.You should have about 48 degrees of timing in it at cruise. That alone will bring the temp down considerably.
Won’t it ping with 40-50 degrees of timing at cruise? That seems like alot?And when he rolls in to the throttle from cruise and the coolant temp is 200 and iat is 140 the chamber temp is through the roof. That’s what breaks ring lands.
Won’t it ping with 40-50 degrees of timing at cruise? That seems like alot?
Nope. That’s where all of your fuel mileage comes from also. Lean and lots of timing. Pinging will happen under load when cylinder pressure is high and VE is up. Mostly at or around peak torque.Won’t it ping with 40-50 degrees of timing at cruise? That seems like alot?
you have to watch the load as well. You don’t want a bunch of timing in it when the load is high. But cruising you want a bunch. That’s why 3D timing tables are so awesome. Watch your timing on the graph in real time while cruising and keep hitting the up arrow and it’ll cool off, run better, get better mileage, and the vacuum will increase.Yeah it’s about 25 degrees at cruise (2400-2800rpm) which is about 55-65mph.
I’ll mess with the timing table to try and feed more timing into it at that range. Manifold pressure is -4.0 to -4.5 at that range also
Okay, the terminator software does have 3D timing tables. I’ve only been using the 2D table up until now. I’ll need to have my laptop up so I can see the live table while I’m cruising on the highway.you have to watch the load as well. You don’t want a bunch of timing in it when the load is high. But cruising you want a bunch. That’s why 3D timing tables are so awesome. Watch your timing on the graph in real time while cruising and keep hitting the up arrow and it’ll cool off, run better, get better mileage, and the vacuum will increase.
Okay, the terminator software does have 3D timing tables. I’ve only been using the 2D table up until now. I’ll need to have my laptop up so I can see the live table while I’m cruising on the highway.
How do I determine how much is too much for timing at cruise?
What he ^^^ said. I would also urge you to find a local professional tuner and have a custom tune done. You can get in the weeds pretty quick.Okay, the terminator software does have 3D timing tables. I’ve only been using the 2D table up until now. I’ll need to have my laptop up so I can see the live table while I’m cruising on the highway.
How do I determine how much is too much for timing at cruise?
Fuel is still burning as it travels through the exhaust port, in turn roasting the water jacket.That slow, lazy burn generates an incredible amount of heat late in the cycle.
It drives coolant temperatures through the roof
The crank pulley I’m using is the one supplied with the supercharger. It’s the same size or just slightly larger than the factory magnum crank pulley. The water pump pulley I’m using is what comes stock on a magnum water pumpIf you do have any type of under drive pulleys on there, they need to go. What is the size ratio between your crank and water pump pulleys? You want around 1.2:1, maybe a little more with forced induction.
I had my pulleys made, 7.00’’ crank & 5.875’’ water pump. Had a similar issue to yours few years ago, used those pulleys with a FlowKooler water pump (vane impeller type) big radiator, big block style 160deg thermostat & went back to a mechanical fan. Solved it. You want good airflow and water flow at low engine speeds.
Why I ask about the size & ratio of the pulleys is that this is really what solved the issue. That and the pump.The crank pulley I’m using is the one supplied with the supercharger. It’s the same size or just slightly larger than the factory magnum crank pulley
The more I read into it the more I feel that the timing is the main culprit. That would explain why my underhood temps are so hot.As long as the crank pulley is the same diameter as the water pump pulley you're ok. If the water pump pulley is smaller than the crank pulley that's great. Depending on your rpm and what water pump you have, up to 20% over driven is great.
Under no circumstances should the water pump pulley be bigger than the crank pulley, with one exception. If the rpm is high enough you can run into cavitation and that's bad. If you contact Flowkooler or Milodon they can tell you at what rpm the pump will cavitate.
Then it's simple math to figure out how fast the pump is turning. If your max engine speed is say, 8000 rpm and the pump is 20% overdriven the pump rpm will be 9600. That's an example and I have no idea what your max rpm is or how many rpm the water pump can turn.
One other thing to remember about water pump speed. You can get to the point where you blow the belt off. This is much easier with a V belt arrangement but a serpentine belt will come off if you over speed it far enough. Also, I know you don't run a mechanical fan but if you were you'd need to consider fan speed as well. An exploding fan is bad news.
I could try that, I know that the crank pulley is bigger than the water pump pulley, just not sure about the exact measurementWhy I ask about the size & ratio of the pulleys is that this is really what solved the issue. That and the pump.
The big radiator and other upgrades were already there or added on at the time. Wouldn’t hurt to measure them up and work out the ratio you have.
The more I read into it the more I feel that the timing is the main culprit. That would explain why my underhood temps are so hot.
The water pump pulley is smaller than my crank pulley. I’d like to try and adjust the timing before I spend the money on a flow cooler water pump