Magnum cooling

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TrailBeast said:
The sooner the electric fans go away the sooner the cooling problems will go away.
Been there done that.

People can argue that all day long, but it’s still fact.
I had automatic electric on my 5.9 and it ran 200-210 with a 190 stat consistently.
Dumped that setup for a clutch fan belt driven setup and it never goes over 195, even in the summer stop and go traffic here in AZ.

And RRR is right about that 3rd row in the radiator.
Sometimes it’s a disadvantage.
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I’m limited on space, initially I had opted for a mechanical fan but I couldn’t fit it. I also need to add an intercooler in the future so that’ll take more space.
 
volaredon said:
The fact that you can get the engine running "too cool" still works. Even if not for "emissions" reasons there are reasons to run the engine a little warmer... 180-200 running temp is NOT overheating. With too low temps you're not burning off condensation in the crankcase, and fuel wise fuel puddling isn't good even if not an "emissions tuned"ride.
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This is just wrong. Dead wrong.
 
Demonic said:
That motor was factory designed to run at 195 stock. Only other thing would be to plot/record air inlet temp vs ambient. If the blower puts a little extra heat in, then it will surely get to the coolant.
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This is a trend I’ve noticed over the past couple of days. As it sits in traffic, the IAT rises and so does the coolant temp. I’ll hope to mitigate this in the future when I route the blower inlet to the front of the car and add an intercooler
 
TT5.9mag said:
@Evan Dutch I wouldn’t run any engine with boost on pump gas above 170 degrees. You’ll fight detonation like crazy. 160 would be even better. If you have a 160 stat and it’s running at 200 on a 70 degree day then what you’re seeing is the top of the efficiency range of your cooling system. You need more cooling system. More air, more water, or both. Testing will help decide which is lacking.
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Listen up. You keep barging into threads, dropping truth, making sense and explaining it perfectly and I’ll report your *** to the mods and ask to get you permabanned!!

Knock that crap off.


























Surely I jest. Great post and full on truth.

Some days I just get bored and I gotta poke the bear for ***** and giggles lol
 
TT5.9mag said:
@Evan Dutch I wouldn’t run any engine with boost on pump gas above 170 degrees. You’ll fight detonation like crazy. 160 would be even better. If you have a 160 stat and it’s running at 200 on a 70 degree day then what you’re seeing is the top of the efficiency range of your cooling system. You need more cooling system. More air, more water, or both. Testing will help decide which is lacking.
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I just don’t see a way to get it to consistently run that cool. It’s got plenty of coolant capacity. And airflow isn’t restricted, I’ve got a trans cooler and power steering cooler but I don’t feel it’s impeding airflow that much. I could add vents in the hood to draft out the hot air while cruising
 
Evan Dutch said:
This is a trend I’ve noticed over the past couple of days. As it sits in traffic, the IAT rises and so does the coolant temp. I’ll hope to mitigate this in the future when I route the blower inlet to the front of the car and add an intercooler
Click to expand...

A 5-10 degree rise in coolant temperature at stop lights is acceptable as long as once you get moving it goes right back down.

If the engine is more than 10 degrees over thermostat opening temperature just bee-bobbing down the road, keep working on the cooling system.

My simple rules:

You can’t get “too much” ignition.

You can’t get a pushrod that’s “too stiff”.

You can’t get a fuel pump that’s overkill.

You can’t get the radiator too big.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
A 5-10 degree rise in coolant temperature at stop lights is acceptable as long as once you get moving it goes right back down.

If the engine is more than 10 degrees over thermostat opening temperature just bee-bobbing down the road, keep working on the cooling system.

My simple rules:

You can’t get “too much” ignition.

You can’t get a pushrod that’s “too stiff”.

You can’t get a fuel pump that’s overkill.

You can’t get the radiator too big.
Click to expand...
The coolest I’ve been able to get it to run while cruising down the road is 185. And closer to 200 as it warms up more with some stop and go driving
 
TT5.9mag said:
@Evan Dutch I wouldn’t run any engine with boost on pump gas above 170 degrees. You’ll fight detonation like crazy. 160 would be even better. If you have a 160 stat and it’s running at 200 on a 70 degree day then what you’re seeing is the top of the efficiency range of your cooling system. You need more cooling system. More air, more water, or both. Testing will help decide which is lacking.
Click to expand...


I’m repositioning this because it’s so CRITICAL it can’t be ignored.

You aren’t running a NA 9:1 turd. You have BOOST.

You absolutely MUST get the coolant temperature DOWN or get rid of the boost.

This is no different than running 12:1 on pump gas. You can’t do it and make power but a hot engine will detonate itself to death so fast your wallet will cry.

That’s why BEFORE I buy anything or develop a plan on how to cool it.

If you can’t get the cooling system to maintain engine temperature at or SLIGHTLY above thermostat opening then drop the compression or get rid of the boost.

At your temperatures you’ll need to lower the boost, pull more timing, add an octane booster like Torco Accelerator, use race gas or a combination of the above.

Whatever you do, do NOT go out and flat foot the engine with ANY boost.

I’m assuming you have a boost retard capable ignition.

If not you better get one.
 
if you mentioned it, i missed it but what waterpump are you running?

if you're still on a stocker and not upgraded to a hi-flow unit that may be a worth while avenue to head down. be sure to swap in the accompanying hi flow stat too.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
I’m repositioning this because it’s so CRITICAL it can’t be ignored.

You aren’t running a NA 9:1 turd. You have BOOST.

You absolutely MUST get the coolant temperature DOWN or get rid of the boost.

This is no different than running 12:1 on pump gas. You can’t do it and make power but a hot engine will detonate itself to death so fast your wallet will cry.

That’s why BEFORE I buy anything or develop a plan on how to cool it.

If you can’t get the cooling system to maintain engine temperature at or SLIGHTLY above thermostat opening then drop the compression or get rid of the boost.

At your temperatures you’ll need to lower the boost, pull more timing, add an octane booster like Torco Accelerator, use race gas or a combination of the above.

Whatever you do, do NOT go out and flat foot the engine with ANY boost.

I’m assuming you have a boost retard capable ignition.

If not you better get one.
Click to expand...
I’ve got every safety imaginable setup on the terminator computer. As the coolant temp and IAT rises, the computer pulls timing
 
junkyardhero said:
if you mentioned it, i missed it but what waterpump are you running?

if you're still on a stocker and not upgraded to a hi-flow unit that may be a worth while avenue to head down. be sure to swap in the accompanying hi flow stat too.
Click to expand...
It’s a stock water pump for a 5.9 magnum
 
Evan Dutch said:
I’m curious as to if that would help enough. I’m intrigued
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i don't put together engines without high flow pumps, and if i buy a car that's one of the first thing's it'll get

if i have a customer with an overheating car, that's number one with a bullet. i mean, there's other factors involved obviously but that's the gist of it.

you've got an updated radiator, what seems to be enough fan and a lower temp stat. i'd bet if this doesn't solve it, it would probably come close.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
I’m repositioning this because it’s so CRITICAL it can’t be ignored.

You aren’t running a NA 9:1 turd. You have BOOST.

You absolutely MUST get the coolant temperature DOWN or get rid of the boost.

This is no different than running 12:1 on pump gas. You can’t do it and make power but a hot engine will detonate itself to death so fast your wallet will cry.

That’s why BEFORE I buy anything or develop a plan on how to cool it.

If you can’t get the cooling system to maintain engine temperature at or SLIGHTLY above thermostat opening then drop the compression or get rid of the boost.

At your temperatures you’ll need to lower the boost, pull more timing, add an octane booster like Torco Accelerator, use race gas or a combination of the above.

Whatever you do, do NOT go out and flat foot the engine with ANY boost.

I’m assuming you have a boost retard capable ignition.

If not you better get one.
Click to expand...
Something that everyone else giving advice in this thread missed. BOOST. And there is no point to having boost if your ECU just yanks all the timing out when the coolant temp goes up. You said my post was great, well right back at ya!
 
Evan Dutch said:
I’m curious as to if that would help enough. I’m intrigued
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How much boost does it show while cruising? I assume almost none. Then how much ignition timing does it have while cruising?
I would try sealing the shroud to the radiator first with cheap foam from a hardware store, the self adhesive kind. If the fans are pulling enough air but the air is bypassing the radiator you will lose cooling.
If that does not help, then I may try the higher flow water pump.
 
Bobzilla said:
How much boost does it show while cruising? I assume almost none. Then how much ignition timing does it have while cruising?
I would try sealing the shroud to the radiator first with cheap foam from a hardware store, the self adhesive kind. If the fans are pulling enough air but the air is bypassing the radiator you will lose cooling.
If that does not help, then I may try the higher flow water pump.
Click to expand...
Car will cruise at -5.0psi. Ignition timing at 2500-2800rpm (highway cruising) is about 26 degree if I remember correctly
 
Bobzilla said:
How much boost does it show while cruising? I assume almost none. Then how much ignition timing does it have while cruising?
I would try sealing the shroud to the radiator first with cheap foam from a hardware store, the self adhesive kind. If the fans are pulling enough air but the air is bypassing the radiator you will lose cooling.
If that does not help, then I may try the higher flow water pump.
Click to expand...

The POINT is the cooling system can’t keep the temperature under control WITHOUT BOOST.

How the hell can it keep up under boost?
 
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