Search results for query: Clutch fork travel

So is there a short ball pivot clutch fork? This is new to me so Im not sure which fork I'll need. The A833 OD has its own special bellhousing because of the larger bearing retainer. Should I be looking for an early A body small block clutch fork?

IIRC the ball pivot bellhousing always had the long fork but early A-bodies always used the short fork. I used a small block ball pivot bellhousing in a 66 Valiant and the fork travel was right in line with the torsion bar and barely cleared the torsion bar but it did work.

I have the same set-up. Had to shift stuff, bend a few things, clearance a pipe, all the usual stuff. However, I had no starter interference even with the Chrysler starter. My guess is that your Z-bar is a little too far to the inboard side. To Reiterate; the Z-bar needs to be parallel to the...

Hey FABO, I'm hoping someone can help me with my A833OD set up. I'm swapping it into a 75 Trailduster that used to have an NP435 4 speed. I'm trying to get the clutch fork throw set, but I'm not seeing the clutch disc move off the flywheel when I have my helper pump the pedal. How much...

Assuming that; you installed the disc with the flywheel side to the flywheel and the BH is correct for the input retainer, and the over-center spring is installed on the Pedal assy and the downrod does not rub on the firewall, at full travel Then Make sure your Zbar is anchored on the...

If you have a 3 finger pressure plate, you need the over center spring, actually, you need the heavy duty one and the side brace. The spring between the bell and the fork keeps the throwout bearing from riding on the pressure plate fingers. Your clutch pedal doesn't have to come up even...

...did you adjust the shifter linkage? Have you looked at the clutch fork while someone depresses the clutch pedal to assure proper clutch fork travel? If somehow you got some wrong parts, you may net be disengaging the clutch enough to get it in gear. Lastly, did you shift the transmission...

not done it but i did research it with an eye on reliable OEM parts, easy spares and not needing to pull the box and bell should the slave cylinder leak. but if i was going to i'd use 80s chevy s10 master 82-92 Clutch Master Cylinder For 82-93 Chevy GMC S10 Sonoma Blazer S15 Jimmy DV22M2 |...

depending on car and bellhousing the inner z bar ball stud is usually on a mount to off set it from the 2 bolts that hold it onto the bell housing. on my car its a J shaped hunk of steel with the ball stud screwed into the curly end of the j To be honest i have no idea if the same mount is...

Shifter linkage is adjusted perfectly. With factory parts I shouldn't have problems. Only variance was going to 10" clutch. Trans shifted fine and still does in the car as long as the engine is off.

I saw that wear and dismissed it on account of I have seen a lot worse wear and the trans still always worked nice. The struts in my trans, have over 250,000 miles on them and still work flawlessly;......... and I have repointed BOTH the slider and the clutch teeth several times.i. Since you...

The only thing im not to sure is what for A body the pedal assembly came out of. Im going to reach out to the guy i bought it from and find out

Everything you need to know, has already been said in this thread. Except; 1) there is a rubber bumper at the top of the pedal travel, to park the pedal in the exact right place, for everything to work correctly, almost no matter how worn the factory oval slots get to be..... when everything is...

Forgot to mention... I cut and welded in some rod to extend the fork rod. It 'the pedal' was also too low. I wanna say about a fat inch +. I didn't have anyone to ask back then, no forum... no "gurus"... I just went to town where I could to make it work... and it's great.

hey everybody, how can I help? Lemmee start by saying this; Over-shifting, on a correctly assembled A833, can only be caused by a failure of the interlock mechanism, the wrong front slider is installed, or a fork is bent. Since the later covers have this most excellent interlock mech, that...

I just look up in my 70 Factory service manual. "(3) Adjust fork rod by turning self locking adjusting nut (Figs. 6 or 7) to provide 5/32 inch free movement at end of fork. This movement will provide predescribed ons inch free play at pedal" I misadjusted the free play (too much) and caused the...

Howdy, I’m fabricating a custom pedal arrangement and need to know the approx total clutch travel of the adjuster rod/fork using a 66-74 BB fork Brewers pn CF702. Any help greatly appreciated! As well, what is the purpose of the adjuster rod having a large hole at the torque shaft pin end? Thanks

So how is it holding up? How much daily driving/cruising do you still do with it? I used to drive a Mack and am used to floating gears, you mentioned that with practice you were smooth as synchro'd but you didn't indicate if you were floating or clutching. If you're floating, do you do that to...

The hydraulic throw out bearing I got from from American Powertrain has 1/2" or .500" of travel when fully depressed. McLeod stated that's the maximum travel when I asked them about how much travel their 3-finger Street Twin clutch needed to full disengage. There is .130" of freeplay included...

Before you rip and tear, does your pedal system look like the article system? Assuming a B&B style cover (3 finger). Make sure the linkage tight. Bell crank basically straight across in any view. Verify your fork pivot isn't bent over, cracked, loose, or severely worn. Fork tips not worn...

For 10.5/10.95 scalloped clutches; 1) If you are running a 3-finger clutch; If when the freeplay is set to ~1inch, AND the pedal can be extended to NOT less that 1" from the floor, AND if this gets you adequate clutch departure of .080 or more, then you have the right pedal box. Or; 2) If you...

I used a picture/ diagram that i was given to go by. Its suppose to be really close to the end of the Z bar but it didnt work for me. It hit the mini starter. So i cut it back off. I installed the Z bar hooked it all up including the adjustment rod. I held it in place & tack weld it. Took it...

Or too short; Fully assembled; with the fork properly located on the TO collar, and with the TO assembly pushed forward onto the clutch fingers, the TO fork should be at or near the rear of the window in the factory BH, about 3/4 inch from the edge. The TO fork only needs to travel forward...

When you are stopped ; The driveshaft is not turning, so the trans mainshaft is not turning, so the synchronizer assemblies are not turning, but; With your foot off the clutch, and the engine idling, ALL the other parts are spinning. There is no way under this circumstance to engage any gear...

A lot of outstanding info here. I did replace the mounts with the Mancini flavor that have the locking plates in the rubber and also stand up taller. That plus a shim on the mounts for header clearance would explain the change in distance. My dumbass moment for this issue forgetting basic...

Search Results for Query: Clutch fork travel | For A Bodies Only Mopar Forum

You can shim the frame-side in/out to locate the other end such that it clears the headers BUT, the down rod more or less has to remain in the center of the firewall cutout. To make that happen, you can bend the lever as required but if you do, you have to double-bend it to offset it, so that...

I'm in the process to convert my car from auto to 4-speed and one of the necessary tasks is to set up the clutch linkage. I think the following lines might help others who are in the same position. 1.) There are several different ways how you can actuate a clutch: a) mechanical linkage b)...

>Put it in second gear, then start the car with the pedal depressed. If the car creeps, the disc is dragging If it is hard to pull the stick back into neutral, same answer. >With engine running, clutch depressed, try shifting into reverse. If it grinds, the cluster is spinning. Wait 5 seconds...