Throw out bearing

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Steve welder

Steve welder

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Who makes a quality throw out bearing for my 833 four speed
The bearing came as a conversion kit from Brewers and its got hardly a hundred miles on it and nosy when I step on the clutch
Im thinking of changing it before the nice weather starts
Thanks
 
Steve welder said:
Who makes a quality throw out bearing for my 833 four speed
The bearing came as a conversion kit from Brewers and its got hardly a hundred miles on it and nosy when I step on the clutch
Im thinking of changing it before the nice weather starts
Thanks
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As far as I know, Timken is still made here. It needs to have TIMKEN written ONE THE PART though, not just the box. A lot of tomfoolery goin on with reboxing.
 
Steve welder said:
Who makes a quality throw out bearing for my 833 four speed
The bearing came as a conversion kit from Brewers and its got hardly a hundred miles on it and nosy when I step on the clutch
Im thinking of changing it before the nice weather starts
Thanks
Click to expand...
I buy mine from napa. I bought 2. So far 18 years on the 1st.
 
Steve welder said:
Who makes a quality throw out bearing for my 833 four speed
The bearing came as a conversion kit from Brewers and its got hardly a hundred miles on it and nosy when I step on the clutch
Im thinking of changing it before the nice weather starts
Thanks
Click to expand...
Clutch adjusted properly? What is the air gap between the clutch fingers and the bearing with the pedal is out?
 
RustyRatRod said:
With the pedal OUT, the air gap is zero.
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So theres 2 pedal sets 67-73, one for 3/4 spd economy non performance..and another for 273 4brl/340/383 etc performance models..so somewhere having trouble catching gears while racing around and so they would tighten it up so that there was always some tension on the throwout bearing... some those folks have premature failure.
 
toolmanmike said:
Clutch adjusted properly? What is the air gap between the clutch fingers and the bearing with the pedal is out?
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Dont know but will look, Clutch seems to be adjusted ok. Just enough free play, doesnt grind but that bearing sounds lousy the clutch is engaged
 
Steve welder said:
Dont know but will look, Clutch seems to be adjusted ok. Just enough free play, doesnt grind but that bearing sounds lousy the clutch is engaged
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When you installed it how did you adjust it? How did you check if the adjustment was right? If you just checked free play in the pedal I would bet the bearing is riding on the pressure plate fingers. If it is there's a good chance you ruined your pressure plate as well.
 
toolmanmike said:
When you installed it how did you adjust it? How did you check if the adjustment was right? If you just checked free play in the pedal I would bet the bearing is riding on the pressure plate fingers. If it is there's a good chance you ruined your pressure plate as well.
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How much gap do you need between bearing and pressure plate fingers?
 
toolmanmike said:
When you installed it how did you adjust it? How did you check if the adjustment was right? If you just checked free play in the pedal I would bet the bearing is riding on the pressure plate fingers. If it is there's a good chance you ruined your pressure plate as well.
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Im going out there soon and pull the inspection cover. I dont think I adjusted correctly. When I think about it, I figure well under 100 miles on it so I hope I didnt screw up the PP
Will post later on and thanks
 
Steve welder said:
Dont know but will look, Clutch seems to be adjusted ok. Just enough free play, doesnt grind but that bearing sounds lousy the clutch is engaged
Click to expand...
Then it's toast. Makes noise under load and it's gone. Some of the cheaper ones kinda rattle and wh
indian said:
How much gap do you need between bearing and pressure plate fingers?
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I'm not sure there's an actual spec there. That's what you're adjusting when you adjust free travel in the clutch pedal. Get the free travel right and the rest will fall into place.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Then it's toast. Makes noise under load and it's gone. Some of the cheaper ones kinda rattle and wh

I'm not sure there's an actual spec there. That's what you're adjusting when you adjust free travel in the clutch pedal. Get the free travel right and the rest will fall into place.
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Thank you
 
RustyRatRod said:
I'm not sure there's an actual spec there. That's what you're adjusting when you adjust free travel in the clutch pedal. Get the free travel right and the rest will fall into place.
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There might not be a spec. I adjusted my pedal free play to about 3" at the top and ended up smoking a bearing and tearing up the pp fingers. It only takes 1/16" in the wrong direction at the t/o bearing to do damage. With the pedal out, the bearing is not supposed to ride on the pp fingers. PERIOD. Adjust it right down below and the free play will be what it is. It all has to do with pp finger height and how good or worn your linkage is.
 
toolmanmike said:
There might not be a spec. I adjusted my pedal free play to about 3" at the top and ended up smoking a bearing and tearing up the pp fingers. It only takes 1/16" in the wrong direction at the t/o bearing to do damage. With the pedal out, the bearing is not supposed to ride on the pp fingers. PERIOD. Adjust it right down below and the free play will be what it is. It all has to do with finger height and how good or worn your linkage is.
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Exactly. That's WHY there's a free travel spec. As long as there's any free travel at all, the throw out bearing isn't on the clutch fingers. I think the general spec for most everything is from 1/2" to 1" free travel. Anywhere in that range is good. Anymore and it needs adjusting. I'm glad this came up actually, because I need to adjust Gladys' free travel. It's gotten a little too much through the years. lol
 
RustyRatRod said:
Exactly. That's WHY there's a free travel spec. As long as there's any free travel at all, the throw out bearing isn't on the clutch fingers. I think the general spec for most everything is from 1/2" to 1" free travel. Anywhere in that range is good. Anymore and it needs adjusting. I'm glad this came up actually, because I need to adjust Gladys' free travel. It's gotten a little too much through the years. lol
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Most clutches loose free travel as they wear.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Exactly. That's WHY there's a free travel spec. As long as there's any free travel at all, the throw out bearing isn't on the clutch fingers. I think the general spec for most everything is from 1/2" to 1" free travel. Anywhere in that range is good. Anymore and it needs adjusting. I'm glad this came up actually, because I need to adjust Gladys' free travel. It's gotten a little too much through the years. lol
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I just look up in my 70 Factory service manual. "(3) Adjust fork rod by turning self locking adjusting nut (Figs. 6 or 7) to provide 5/32 inch free movement at end of fork. This movement will provide predescribed ons inch free play at pedal"

I misadjusted the free play (too much) and caused the issue. If the adjustment down below is right there won't be an issue. I rest my case.
 
92b said:
Most clutches loose free travel as they wear.
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It depends on how the linkage is set up. Which side of the Z bar is actuated from. On these old Ford trucks, the free travel increase with wear.
 
toolmanmike said:
I just look up in my 70 Factory service manual. "(3) Adjust fork rod by turning self locking adjusting nut (Figs. 6 or 7) to provide 5/32 inch free movement at end of fork. This movement will provide predescribed ons inch free play at pedal"

I misadjusted the free play (too much) and caused the issue. If the adjustment down below is right there won't be an issue. I rest my case.
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What do you mean you "rest your case"? I was never arguing.
 
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