Clutch Linkage Problem

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Dodge 340

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I have a 70 Dart Swinger, 340, 4 speed. Totally redid this car over many years. I put TTI headers on and a mini starter from Summit. The clutch bell crank, when you depress the clutch, hits the starter and the one header pipe and then won't retract all the way. You have to manually pull it all the way back with your foot. All new bushings and everything is new in that area. Do I have something assembled wrong? Can anyone out there help me with this problem? I actually bent the one arm on the bell crank a nlittle bit so that it didn't hit the pipe or the starter hard but I need to fix this.
 
Right from the tti website:
1717510351130.png

https://ttiexhaust.com/Sheets/Zbar_sheet340ZB.pdf
 
Post a photo. You might have the wrong Z bar in there. I have a similar setup. 72 duster, 340, 4 speed, Lakewood scatter shield / block plate, mini starter and TTI headers, with no clearance issues.
 
SN: my 72’ 340/4 speed Demon and Doug’s and tti exhaust. Lately my clutch pedal is releasing but will “snap back” the last 1” after a quick rap of the throttle or I lift it back with my foot.

Engine shifted a bit to one side due to motor mount. I loosened up the mounts, shifted the engine toward the drivers side. Tightened the nuts and all seems right again.
 
I have the same set-up.
Had to shift stuff, bend a few things, clearance a pipe, all the usual stuff.
However, I had no starter interference even with the Chrysler starter.
My guess is that your Z-bar is a little too far to the inboard side.

To Reiterate;
the Z-bar needs to be parallel to the ground; and in top view, at 90* to the centerline of the car.
The outboard end needs to be anchored to the Nylon ballbushing with the funky horseshoe clip. and yes after all is set, the frame-bracket needs to be welded to the inner-fender/apron. The down rod, during operation, needs to travel vertically, more or less in the center of the window.
On the inboard side;
Firstly; the throw-out Fork needs to park at the front-most edge of the window, with just enough room to install the boot. Then the adjustable link to the Z-bar, should install approximately parallel to the ground and parallel to the centerline of the car.
There is a return spring, usually called an anti-rattle spring, that pulls the TO fork back to it's parked position, pulling the TO bearing with it, off the clutch disc. One end anchors on the fork, and the other to the BH; anchor points are provided.

If you cannot get enough Clutch departure or it takes a lot of travel, then you may have a six-cylinder pedal-box.

There are several parts available, that can be swapped in, to make all this happen.
If your system already meets this criteria, then something will need to be moved or modified.
 
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