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Thank you!

Hey Cuda Chick, thank you for the B day wish. By the way, this is Meep-Meep from FBBO. I picked this handle because of my old 68 Barracuda 340S coupe I had in the 80's. It was a name given to that car by a buddy, and yes, it was green.

Very cool car!!!

OK, I must have got my years mixed up, but I knew I saw Roland in it at the street machine nats back in the 80's sometime. So did you buy it from Roland? Last I heard Roland was pretty messed up and may even be dead by now. Partied a little too hardy I believe.

Hmmm, from 1981 huh? If this is the car I'm thinking of this looks like the street machine nationals in Sac and I believe Roland Merman owned the car then. Or I saw him driving it at the event anyway.

Sold!!!

Rotors are still available as of today.

Here's mine. Numbers matching 69 GTS 340 in the original colors. And I did replace the broken fender emblem since this pic was taken :D

I'm diggin' the Cragars and redlines! What's the specs on the rims and tires?

I have a set of rotors that I machined according to the info presented in this thread http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=20544 and if anyone wants them I will sell them for the cost of the rotors plus shipping. I decided to put this project on hold so I'd rather not have...

I have a set of rotors that I machined according to the info presented in this thread and if anyone wants them I will sell them for the cost of the rotors plus shipping. I decided to put this project on hold so I'd rather not have the stuff lying around collecting dust. I paid $60.00 ea and...

The Ford register is smaller than the MoPar. This shouldn't be an issue since most aftermarket wheels are lug centric anyway.

Nice car and nice job!! Can I get the tire and wheel particulars? Back space, etc..

I had the exact same idea to use the Ford rotors on my 69 GTS and just stumbled across this thread while searching to see if anyone has done it. Glad to know it works! One thing I have done to solve the seal issue was to make a steel sleeve to press on to the spindle/axle where the seal rides...

I pulled this from one of my posts on FBBO. Some of it seems relevant to your request. "As mentioned above, 12.50's AND decent mileage is not going to happen unless you spend cubic $$$$ or buy a computer controlled aerodynamic reissue muscle car - more cubic $$$$. Here's breaking down your...

A .484" has a pretty late intake closing point and with 9.0:1 CR it sounds marginal to me to get any decent driveability until you wind it up. If you can cram in as much timing as you want and it only improves, that may be a good indicator of low cylinder pressure, and in my opinion that's the...

See here - http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?p=36339#post36339

Like everyone else here, I am happy you and your son are OK but very sad such a great car was destroyed in the process. It would be much easier to take if it was an honest mistake and the party at fault showed remorse but from what I understand this is not the case. Hope there is a fair and...

Ya know, that's right, the A body trans has a shorter tail housing. I got B body on the brain I guess. Sorry.

Yeah I was wondering about that, but they're supposed to have a really good additive package that contains moly plus a lot of the Porsche 911 racers use it - and air cooled engines aren't exactly nice to oil. SWEPCO gear oil is just about the only thing that will keep a Porsche transaxle alive...

Absolutely not. The 833 and 727 share the same installed length, which is longer then the 904. Also the 8 3/4 yoke has a different dimension than the 7 1/4 so in the end result you will need a shorter drive shaft.

First thing I'd do is check the compression. Prolly should have 180-190 PSI to make that cam work.

........Oh, and my theory why Danas got so popular is because they were one of the plentiful strong rear ends of the day. Before that was the early Olds. It just makes sense. Typically anything from a truck was prime pickins'. Ye old timers who were there please correct me if I'm wrong.

I'm all about performance per dollar and good parts is where you find 'em, so would be interesting to know more about this rear end. However, as mentioned earlier, ratio choices might be slim pickins. 4.10 - 4.30 is definitely a good starting point, though. Then you have to deal with the axle...

Do not ignore your compression ratio when selecting a cam. It's not all about lift and duration. Intake closing point is the most important factor and will make or break the engine performance. 150 - 160 PSI of cylinder pressure will do well on 87 R+M/2. The low CR 340 cam sounds like a good...

This has been my experience. 70# spring and go-go-go.

I'm not one to argue with physics, and I have to admit I've thought about the combo my self, but it's definitely not the cheap and easy way out. I imagine a reliable 7000 RPM shift point motor based on a low block and 3.75" stroke using mostly factory parts is very doable.

Install the rockers on the shaft so that the left and right are in the proper locations. Start with TDC #1 and loosen the adjuster so you have lash and the lifter plunger is ll the way up. Slowly tighten the adjuster until the lash just goes away then one turn more. If the lifter is full of...

I can appreciate sweeping up all the parts one has lying around to make something useful, but why build a 451 when a .040" over 440 (448CI) is basically the same thing? Plus you get a better rod/stroke ratio. The added expense of fitting the crank and getting custom rods and pistons doesn't...

Outstanding videos!!!!! Thanks for posting :cheers::cheers::cheers: