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That rear cover is TITS! Think about starting a new thread that covers the build step by step. I would definitely follow along. Good luck!

#1 - AWESOME tow rig. We need pictures. #2 - go with the Howards recommendation. I run one of their solid rollers and I love it. Bonus that it’s in stock at Summit. Just verify it will play nice with your current valve springs.

Pulled the intake last night and it looks like #8 was sucking oil from the valley. These Cometic gaskets were only .031” thick and I was skeptical about them sealing well to begin with. Ordered a new set of .062” gaskets from Summit so should be back up and running soon.

I’m getting some oil in #8. What should I check first?

My 002/003 S/S springs are about 6 years old and have definitely sagged about 1.5-2”, but honestly the car looks better now. And that’s with a 275/60 tire on a Duster.

Interested Jim. Are these the 15x8.5”? If so I’ll take them but will need them shipped.

@Newbomb Turk

3D printed intake?

Holy Moley!!!

A single W2 bare head…….. my life has been a living nightmare since. And now I’m poor to boot.

I love everything about that car. ‘72 Dusters RULE!!

You’re going to love that aluminum flywheel. I’m running the aluminum Ram 2503 flywheel with a 900 Powergrip. The clutch engagement is a lot more touchy than my old Hays B/B but I’m getting used to it. I think we’re running similar engine combinations and I can tell you that the stroked W2 with...

The total timing is all in at 2200. Distributor has 2 of the light springs in it but I have other springs coming from Mancini to slow the curve down. Probably shoot for around all in at 3000 and go from there. Currently has a 6.5 power valve but I might try a 10.5. Its got a lean surge when the...

Ordered new pushrods from Smith Brothers. Ended up being .150” longer than the first set. Which is coincidentally the same depth as the cup in the pushrod. I suppose it’s possible that I measured overall length but told them effective length. Anyway, got everything installed and adjusted...

:rofl:

:rofl: :rofl:

You might be able to eventually shove that engine in there and make it run and drive but it will never be “safe” to drive on the road. The amount of structure that will need to be removed will make an already flimsy car even worse. Not to mention the weight bias. Possibly if you are an expert...

I’m running right about 3000rpm at 60mph with a 275/60-15 rear tire.

I also have a 72 340 Duster that originally had 3.23s and have swapped to 3.91s. Although my 340 is now 422” and I run a 4 speed. In my opinion 3.91 and a 4 speed are a match made in heaven for a street car.

@340inabbody I gots to know if you got this thing squared away yet or what?

Just went through this exact scenario. Intake sat way too high because heads and block have been cut multiple times. My intake fit perfectly with no gaskets and my gaskets are .031” so I had .040” cut off the flanges and now it fits perfectly. I believe your thinking of taking .060” off is correct.

Where are you powering the msd box?

The geometry was set up by Mike at B3. Do you think longer pushrods would cure the overheating? Or could there be an oil flow problem due to improperly located oiling holes in the shaft?

Thanks for the reply and pics. Those look like the same Smith Brothers pushrods that I have. Do you guys think that the adjuster being too far through the rocker is restricting oil to the cup? And moving the cup closer to the rocker will prevent the overheating? @9secRR , are you running...

Running offset shafts.

The T&D or Jesel option is out. Pretty sure those require pushrod oiling and my block is tubed so no bueno there. Re-drilling the shafts sounds like a pain in the *** but possible I suppose. There’s gotta be another option. I have the shafts that @Rocket sells here on the forum, not sure how...

Wellllllllll, took another step backwards today. Fired up the car after work today noticed that the rocker noise on the driver side seemed a little louder than normal. Thinking that it was probably just the valve lash being a touch loose, I let it warm up on high idle. When the noise didn’t...

None taken. Obviously the tune up will continue to evolve. Unfortunately, there is little chance of getting it onto a dyno so knowing where it will make peak torque will be a challenge so it would just be guessing anyway.

So I’ve been tweaking the tune up on the 422 for a week or so now. Got things pretty much in the ballpark as far as timing and fuel. She likes to idle right around 950-1000 rpm at 20* static timing with an FBO plate limiting the mechanical advance to 34*, all in by 2200rpm. I’ll be attempting to...

How about a brief rundown of the engine combination. Good numbers.